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  #46  
Old 06-29-2009, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnClark View Post
Really I think the most significant improvement someone could make to the exhaust other than a cherry bomb or a straight pipe is make it come out the the through or just above the bumper like it does on a lot of modern sport cars. There is a nice low pressure point in the slipstream. The down would be the back of your car would get sooty quickly.
Interesting idea, Conn. That might even create a little vacuum on the end of the pipe if it were done right.

The soot thing would be a problem though...

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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Last edited by rcounts; 06-29-2009 at 04:30 PM.
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  #47  
Old 06-29-2009, 09:02 PM
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Location: chicago area, illinois
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i was going to put a slash angle 3 inch tip exiting under he fender with the exhaust opening pointing outward not downward.

like a 67 corvette 427 with side exhaust but just the tip really seen so it looks cleaner but i want to be able to look out the side mirror and monitor the amt of black smoke coming out of the exhaust
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1985 mercedes benz 300D turbo diesel
1998 VW GTI VR6
1996 VW GTI 2.0
1999 saab 9-3 turbo
1987 300sdl (sold)
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  #48  
Old 07-04-2009, 11:26 AM
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Out the side will mitigate the soot problem
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  #49  
Old 07-29-2009, 08:11 AM
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if you have the money and u want the ultimate performance
If you going to do exhaust on a turbo car do the Turbo back I don't see much point going cat Back
I'll go with 3 inch but at the end of the day it's your car got 2.5 inch because the guy insisted on it so I took it to another exhaust company and got stainless steel /3 inch ballistic cats vortex exhaust
set up in your car
3 inch dp going into 3 inch ballistic cats going into vortex exhaust there the best trust me on this I know at the end of the day it the best you can afford
check out the vortex exhaust

http://www.vortexexhausts.com.au/products.html
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  #50  
Old 07-29-2009, 10:54 AM
Simpler=Better's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
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Unless you have a california car, there is no catalytic converter on these diesels.

Adding a cat to a diesel is useless and will clog up quickly, which is not good for performance.
EDIT: gotta love spam........
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  #51  
Old 07-29-2009, 11:28 AM
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The catalytic converter on my '87 has no clogged holes, flows well. Mercedes installed as part of the 50-state trap-ox replacement campaign many years ago.
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  #52  
Old 12-11-2009, 11:21 PM
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Any up dates on this.
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  #53  
Old 12-12-2009, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim_morrison View Post
Any up dates on this.
Not from me at this point. As I said earlier, I had (and still have) a couple of other projects that have pushed this to the back burner. They are "need to do" whereas this is only "want to do"...

I don't anticipate having the time to do anything on this until spring - at least. Maybe early summer...
__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Last edited by rcounts; 12-12-2009 at 01:17 AM.
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  #54  
Old 01-26-2010, 03:34 PM
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im still planning on doing this for sure but im going to wait til my garage floor isnt
100 degrees below zero. i hate working on a cold garage floor, and even worse when ur trying to get a rusted ass exhaust clamp or bolt off and it breaks when ur about to give urself a hurnea from using so much force to try to break it loose and u smash ur knuckles against the super cold metal.
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1985 mercedes benz 300D turbo diesel
1998 VW GTI VR6
1996 VW GTI 2.0
1999 saab 9-3 turbo
1987 300sdl (sold)
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  #55  
Old 01-31-2010, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSDL View Post
im still planning on doing this for sure but im going to wait til my garage floor isnt
100 degrees below zero. i hate working on a cold garage floor, and even worse when ur trying to get a rusted ass exhaust clamp or bolt off and it breaks when ur about to give urself a hurnea from using so much force to try to break it loose and u smash ur knuckles against the super cold metal.
HAH! At least you have a garage to work in. I'm doing a diesel transplant into a Jeep Cherokee in my driveway with a "tarp-garage" set up to keep the rain off me! And it rains all the frigging time around here this time of year...

Oh well, at least the temps are in the 40's...
__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #56  
Old 01-31-2010, 06:32 PM
Ian White's Avatar
machinemanjr
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Spokane, Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcounts View Post
And it rains all the frigging time around here this time of year...

Haha, the joys huh? Gotta love EL Nino!
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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #57  
Old 03-15-2010, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSDL View Post
... i hate working on a cold garage floor,
Try gravel and mud out doors. You might better appreciate you horrible working conditions.

Consider a good kerosene bullet heater. Deflect the out put toward the floor with a piece of steel, and the floor is heated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSDL View Post
and even worse when ur trying to get a rusted ass exhaust clamp or bolt off and it breaks when ur about to give urself a hurnea from using so much force to try to break it loose and u smash ur knuckles against the super cold metal.
One word. Smoke Wrench. It has to be the greatest tool a shade tree mechanic can have. Not only does it give you heat to loosen bolts, but you can cut off rusted old clamps and exhaust parts.
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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
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85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
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86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.
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  #58  
Old 03-24-2010, 04:57 PM
Drive itlike you stole it
 
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Location: Boise ID
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Full 3" exhaust

I just finished installing a HX35 and a full 3" mandrel bent exhaust with a magna flow knock off called big dog it is made out of 403 stainless. The muffler is a 24 inch offset sitting in front of the rear axle and sounds real nice would recommend it. I built the exhaust myself just bought the bends and pipe from Columbia river mandrel bend. They were real help.
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  #59  
Old 08-10-2010, 12:26 PM
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Any update rcounts or from anyone else on the exhaust project. I have a 87 300sdl, that is in need of a 3in full exhaust.

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98 Jetta TDI with grease car kit + veg-therm (totaled)
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