87 300D 5spd swap - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

SilverFox123 · #1 12-13-2011, 07:04 PM

Hey guys, sorry to disappear after the advice and thank you!
I've beat my brain enough and am onto the "doing" phase.

My decision is a .411 trans from an '87 190D N/A manual car. The .410 (2.2 diesel) trans was almost perfect with the 3.27 with the exception of the OD gear. It was just too high revving on the highway for me to bite. So I'm going to try the .411 with 3.27 LSD for my winter setup and if it is too tall, swap it with a 3.42 open from an old 2.2D. Whatcha think?

Still have a pile of questions ...

For kicks: Are there any w201 (or w124's compatible) differentials that were 3.46? I can't get a straight answer ... looked like the EVO I's had a 3.46 LSD or ASD. The stock euro manual 190D-t's had a 3.46 and I thought it would be worth an investigation even though the 3.42's are everywhere and damn close to the euro stock ratio.

For real: I am in the process of getting all the new bits for my swap and wasn't sure exactly what was worth throwing on while I'm in there. If i can get any help on the following, I'd be muchly obliged!

-Which clutch would people recommend?
The stock is an 8.5 inch but should it be beefed up? Would a straight up stock Sach kit be fine?
Would a better bet be a 9 inch (still stock Sach) from a later 190E? Or would a stage 2 or 3, 8.5 inch be best? Say spec or clutchnet?

-New pilot and throw out bearings?

-New trans and diff mounts? I heard the manual engine mounts are different ... not sure about the others.

-Intermediate bearing? Flex Discs? Buy new?

-Seals ... any to grab while I'm at it? Rear engine seal? Diff/ trans shaft seals?

-Master and slave cylinders. New or rebuild?

-Hydraulic clutch hoses ... any source on these? Could they be made or bought at a local hyd. shop?

-Also, I heard mention of some spacer/cap involved in the clutch or driveline. I can't find out any more about them, and no others mention them but don't want to shoot myself in the foot.

Any help would readily be ingested and many thank in advance!

SF

ashedd · #2 12-30-2011, 05:10 PM

Ok the "project" car is going into winter DD status. I finally got a good used blower motor installed. I will report any success or failures. And since I got a working odometer and almost correct speedo head, I can figure out mpg's. Not to mention my nice-n-dry IP.

ashedd · #3 01-02-2012, 06:53 PM

This is by no means scientific:

My first fuel calculation with the new diff ratio- 24 mpg in the city, with spirited driving

. 5 gallons to fuel light was 120 miles. Put another 5 in today and will see if I make 120 again.

I would like to see 28 in the city, but I might need to go back to using the ALDA. 35 mpg on the highway and I would be a happy camper. Remember I turn 2100 rpm at 65 mph.

Other notes:
Drove in snowy/slick conditions today. Even with new snow tires I'm getting wheel spin if I dont watch it. A sandbag or two may be in order(helped in my 400E). Starting in 2nd may be an option, but for now I would rather save the tired clutch.

Shifting is getting better(with practice) but I can tell it's not all coming together smoothly in the tranny. Could be the shifter rebuild I botched and/or the tranny fluid. I'm using redline but it has been suggested that going back to atf or gear oil may help.

Pulls like a train in the 2500-4000 rpm range, anything more seems like a waste. You gotta shift at higher rpm's(ie 2000+) or you will get lugging. And if you dilly dally(hello that's me) in the shifts you will loose too many rpm's and kinda ruin the show.

I'm still only using 1-2"s of "gas" pedal deflection, anything more and the old clutch slips. Will spin the snows tires/smoke/leave tread/kick out at will from a stop... again, trying to save the clutch.

She definitely prefers to be "driven"... try to granny it and she get's all choppy.

Car still seems really jerky/jumpy... I was blaming the shifting but I now suspect the early 124 seats and the front end. It's real tight in the front but has always sat really high.. something like 6"+ from factory tire size to front fender lip. Could have some really odd springs in it for some reason.

If switching fluids will allow be to downshift to 2nd better(w/o a crunch) then the low speed transitions would be a lot better. Now I'm trying to use 3rd from a turn where I would prefer 2nd. But come to think of it..... I had a convo with someone about my botched shifter rebuild and the fact that it might not be disengaging a gear completely before I try to put in in another..... hmmm I will have to swap shifters for the old one and see.

So far I LOVE driving it... I just wonder if the same setup in a wagon would give the same LOVE?

dieseleverythin · #4 05-27-2012, 08:59 AM

Great thread. Used quite a bit of information from it.

I just did the swap in my '95 E300D and it's a completely different car now! I used a 717.411 from an '86 190E 2.3. I kept the stock 2.87 diff and the car performs fine, but I wouldn't want anything taller. It turns 2000 rpm at 65 mph, so it is just into the power band at highway speed. My first tank was all highway, half on the automatic and half with the 5 speed, it got 38.57 mpg, incredible!

Like others, I noticed that the car seems to be really jerky now, but it can be managed by driving carefully. Unlike others my clutch (brand new) engages right at half pedal travel, not right at the top. I had my driveshaft made to exactly 33 inches and it came out perfect.

Just thought I would say thanks and share my findings with an E300D.