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  #1  
Old 01-08-2011, 03:43 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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*****y *****y

I'm sure everyone who has contributed to this thread has done so with the best intentions - there is no reason to be rude.


Apparently it depends on the material - cast iron or steel:-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camshaft

Also - I guess - dropping cast iron is more likely to result in a break because of the HCP structure
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 01-08-2011 at 04:50 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-08-2011, 05:01 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Comments about Euro vs US specs

If you go to www.febi.com and fill in the data for a OM617 engine you see that there are 3 power options listed:-

59(80)
65(88)
92(125) which is the turbo

I don't know how these power ratings compare with cam profile though. Febi state you need the same part (01307 Febi P/N) for both the 59(80) and 65(88) powered engines. But that's just Febi.

I'm off to the dealer on Wednesday for a fact finding mission - I'll see what I can unearth for the standard cams.

If you want to see more information about a dealer sourced non-turbo Euro cam have a look here:-

OM617 (non turbo) cam profile specs, piston height specs etc

Where I have measured it - objective rather than subjective.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2011, 06:22 AM
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Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
If you go to www.febi.com and fill in the data for a OM617 engine you see that there are 3 power options listed:-

59(80)
65(88)
92(125) which is the turbo

I don't know how these power ratings compare with cam profile though. Febi state you need the same part (01307 Febi P/N) for both the 59(80) and 65(88) powered engines. But that's just Febi.

I'm off to the dealer on Wednesday for a fact finding mission - I'll see what I can unearth for the standard cams.

If you want to see more information about a dealer sourced non-turbo Euro cam have a look here:-

OM617 (non turbo) cam profile specs, piston height specs etc

Where I have measured it - objective rather than subjective.

Here in Ozz,
All 617's were N/A.
Up to about 1979~80 they were real gutless. The motors were supposed to have a capacity of about 3005cc. Many at the time said they were just a 240 with an extra piston added. They were easy to pic as they had hard lines that sort of had a S bend in their shape and the bottom radiator hose came up very high on the motor. I have seen many of this type of motor in pic of turbo motors on here and a N/A..
Then they came out with the update motor. Most Australian delivery after mid 1979 had them. It was quite different to the previous motor. It was reported as being a complete redesign. It was 2997cc & had more power. I think it is the 88hp one you mention. My old 1980 300D is one of them. In 1981 when I purchased it, I was careful to make sure it was an update. You could easily tell the difference when you drove them.
Towards the end of the run, there was another update to the motor. I dont know the details, it wasnt significant & may have only been a tweak to the IP. My 84 is one of these. The way you could pick them is they had the same front guards & headlights as a 280E. It was said at the time that MB was using up the left over 123 bits at the end of the model run.

So it could be said that there are 3 different 617 N/A motors. Its easy to tell a first generation from a second generation by the IP hard lines & location of the lower hose connection. The change from second gen to third is harder to tell on the motor appearance.
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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #4  
Old 01-10-2011, 12:48 PM
10mm MW
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
*****y *****y

I'm sure everyone who has contributed to this thread has done so with the best intentions - there is no reason to be rude.


Apparently it depends on the material - cast iron or steel:-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camshaft

Also - I guess - dropping cast iron is more likely to result in a break because of the HCP structure
With the stock cast cams breaking I would like to have a nice steel one. Having some steel blanks made would not be too much trouble. Cut & grind them, and then have them heat treated.

I am not sure how close the stock lobes are, but at some point in the quest for more lift the lobe not fit through the pedestals, after that, reducing the base circle is all that is left. Not sure if shorter followers are possible, if so then they may also be a way to amplify the cam profile.
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  #5  
Old 01-10-2011, 12:54 PM
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Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM616 View Post
With the stock cast cams breaking
Can you please link to one or more examples from post 1980 models?
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2011, 01:42 AM
layback40's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM616 View Post
With the stock cast cams breaking I would like to have a nice steel one. Having some steel blanks made would not be too much trouble. Cut & grind them, and then have them heat treated.

I am not sure how close the stock lobes are, but at some point in the quest for more lift the lobe not fit through the pedestals, after that, reducing the base circle is all that is left. Not sure if shorter followers are possible, if so then they may also be a way to amplify the cam profile.

Hey Army,
If I can get 800k miles out of one with no problems & 500k miles on another & both still ok, I think you dont have much to worry about.
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #7  
Old 01-13-2011, 04:58 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Hey Army,
If I can get 800k miles out of one with no problems & 500k miles on another & both still ok, I think you dont have much to worry about.
Hey layback40 - I'm not worried I'm just playing with bits until this dreadful weather clears up and I can be inspired to get out and finish the job!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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