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  #121  
Old 01-08-2016, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fahrvergnugen View Post

I think Mach 4 needs to buy one and report his findings... As for me, I have no doubt it works. I will buy one eventually.
I'm entirely happy with the way my stock "refurbished" overflow valve is now working so I won't be buying the performance one, however if greazzer wants to loan me one for a week or so, I'd be happy to install it and provide video documentation on the results compared to stock springs.

However, that being said, as I referenced in my last post, I should probably rebuild my lift pump to ensure that that part of the fuel system is up to spec so the results are valid.

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  #122  
Old 01-11-2016, 04:26 PM
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OFV

I just received my second performance OFV, I wanted a spare.

I installed the first one about a year ago and have been very happy
with the performance improvements.

Prior to installing the performance OFV I had replaced the vehicles
original OFV with a new ME/BE OFV. It is a maintenance item.

There was a noticeable improvement in drivability as
compared to the old one.

The car (85 SD) no longer felt like it was
running out of fuel at higher RPM's.

However, the performance OFV is a substantial improvement over stock.
Acceleration and drivability are greatly improved.
The car no longer behaves like an old diesel.

Highly recommended.
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  #123  
Old 01-11-2016, 05:15 PM
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Down to 10 of the NEW bodies, and 8 springs for TURBO

Down to the very last NEW OFV for NA applications.
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  #124  
Old 01-12-2016, 08:07 AM
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I asked about this on the superturbodiesel forum, it seems that unless you are running much larger elements and higher RPMs it doesn't seem to matter, I was thinking of just adding in an FPR on the return line instead as it would be easier to install and I could have the ability to adjust the pressure without it being a fixed pressure.

Changing overflow valve to adjustable FPR?
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  #125  
Old 01-12-2016, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m1tch View Post
I asked about this on the superturbodiesel forum, it seems that unless you are running much larger elements and higher RPMs it doesn't seem to matter, I was thinking of just adding in an FPR on the return line instead as it would be easier to install and I could have the ability to adjust the pressure without it being a fixed pressure.

Changing overflow valve to adjustable FPR?
No, not accurate information again.

This benefits stock IPs / stock injectors as noted by almost 100 folks who have installed this.
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  #126  
Old 01-12-2016, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
No, not accurate information again.

This benefits stock IPs / stock injectors as noted by almost 100 folks who have installed this.
Will this fit a w123 "M" IP as opposed to a stock USA "MW" IP?
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  #127  
Old 01-12-2016, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
No, not accurate information again.

This benefits stock IPs / stock injectors as noted by almost 100 folks who have installed this.
What would the difference be between fitting the fixed pressure overflow valve vs an adjustable FPR though?
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  #128  
Old 01-12-2016, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTUpower View Post
Will this fit a w123 "M" IP as opposed to a stock USA "MW" IP?
Yes, it will fit.

Gruß
Volker
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  #129  
Old 01-12-2016, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volker407 View Post
Yes, it will fit.

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lol ... too fast for me ... yes, I had one in mine.
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  #130  
Old 01-12-2016, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m1tch View Post
I asked about this on the superturbodiesel forum, it seems that unless you are running much larger elements and higher RPMs it doesn't seem to matter, I was thinking of just adding in an FPR on the return line instead as it would be easier to install and I could have the ability to adjust the pressure without it being a fixed pressure.
You canīt measure the improvement on a bench. The pressure wave behavior is different on the engine.
I donīt think a standard fuel pressure regulator is easier to install as you have to mess around with several hoses, hose clamps, adaptors, mount the regulator somewhere,...

To change the valve you just need a 17mm open-end spanner, thatīs it.

Keep in mind that all the cheap fuel pressure regulators from eBay and so on are not rated for Diesel fuel.


Gruß
Volker
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  #131  
Old 01-13-2016, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volker407 View Post
You canīt measure the improvement on a bench. The pressure wave behavior is different on the engine.
I donīt think a standard fuel pressure regulator is easier to install as you have to mess around with several hoses, hose clamps, adaptors, mount the regulator somewhere,...

To change the valve you just need a 17mm open-end spanner, thatīs it.

Keep in mind that all the cheap fuel pressure regulators from eBay and so on are not rated for Diesel fuel.


Gruß
Volker
I will look into the different options, on my W210 the inlet and return lines are very easy to get to as they are attached on the right strut tower, getting to the pump however requires quite a lot of work as if I can't get to it from under the car the whole inlet manifold and pipework has to come off.
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  #132  
Old 01-15-2016, 02:31 PM
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UPDATE:

ALL NA (NON-TURBO) new OFVs are now SOLD ! Thanks !!

Less than 10 of the Turbo (NEW OFV) remain, and 7 springs left (turbo as well).

Thanks again !
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  #133  
Old 01-19-2016, 09:01 AM
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Update:

There could be variations in OM606 pumps, so until this is ascertained, no sales for OM606engines. Will update shortly.
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  #134  
Old 01-26-2016, 09:12 PM
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Just an FYI from my experience...........

I'd like to add that the ID of the supply line to the lift pump is too small and has a few restrictions built into it also reducing i/p internal pressure..

For those of you running more than stock HP, increasing the supply hose ID to at least 1/2 will ensure the lift pump is not being subject to cavitation damage which will eventually lead to pump putting out less pressure and volume.

Those of you with the 123 wagons have more restrictions in fuel supply flow than the 123 sedan.

Using a 9psi electric boost pump near the tank helps starting and idle quality.....especially using WVO.

Long cranking times to start is often the supply volume and pressure to the i/p.

I found that on my 1985 123 sedan, this fuel line size limited the power at 3500 rpm and up quiet a lot. Adding a boost pump allowed the engine to reach 4900 rpm at WOT in any gear. Whereas before, power fell off at 4000 rpm, and in 2nd and 3rd and top gear rpm's never got over 3900 rpm.

FYI...The head was ported to the limit and Total Seal second rings to new pistons and sleeves. I/P was optimized with new elements . I just wish I had known about Myna back then.


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  #135  
Old 01-27-2016, 09:14 AM
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I agree,I had a 12 psi electric pump also,It seems my 617 charged up mountains,leaving alot of new cars in the dust.However they have got expensive,I always bought NAPA solenoids pumps.

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