Be careful though! don't remove anything below the copper washer- if the cylinder comes out and you don't line it up correctly on installation and still torque everything down on top of it, you can damage the pump! :fork_off:

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

When I did my ip gasket job on the euro the part numbers that i got from Phil,the dealer, and Bosch were all different. I measured them with my digital calipers and they were different by a couple of tenths of a mm in both ID and OD. I wouldn't use anything that wasnt from Bosch directly for euro versions. The Bosch service person told me that the gaskets for different engine groups may not be interchangable.

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Chris
84 280sl
82 300d euro

When I did this job on my '96 I bought copper washers and o-rings for an 87 300D. I lined up the washers and they were identical. I didn't do that with the o-rings but they fit nicely and I believe they were identical too. It's true that you should always try to get the proper part, but if there's no such part for your vehicle then you have to improvise.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

I'd bet they are the same parts but variations in rubber molded o-rings would allow for a tolerance like that. The fact is that none of these are "custom made" they are stock metric o-rings and they are made to within 1MM sizes of varying thicknesses. A couple of tenths of a mm is just the dimensional tolerance of a rubber part.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I am talking about the gaskets not the o rings. The o rings are the same. I wouldnt use the wrong gaskets. it is possible that they effect the operation of the pump. This info comes straight from a bosch diesel injection specialist . my ip is for a euro 240d and the gaskets are specific to this pump. They may be interchangable with some, but not all. when I asked him how much of a difference it would be, he didnt know. the gaskets go up in size accordingly to the part no. All of them are easily purchaced through Bosch. To me it makes sense. Those gaskets have to seal perfectly. If they dont match with your delivery tube there may be internal leakage. After i removed the washers that were not for my pump one seemed to stick inside of my delivery tube like the washer was too large. I am hopeing nothing internal was altered. It still runs fine. I have done some research on this. these things look identical to the naked eye. They must have a reason for being different otherwise Bosch wouldn't make them that way.

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Chris
84 280sl
82 300d euro

I was helping a friend do this job on his '94 S350 a few weeks back. BEWARE the spline sockets sold to do this job are not all the same. We found out the hard way!! There is a different socket for '86 and newer MB's and a larger one for '87 and later cars.

I said to hell with it and welded 2 spline retainers to an old 13/16 deep well (spark plug) socket and used that. It worked great and I had the job done in 45 mins.

Also, I only had to remove the hard fuel lines at both ends, with no bending to get the job done.

Hope this helps.

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1987 300D 220,000 miles
2003 Avalanche
2003 Victory Vegas
1955 F-100
1970 Big Wheel

Fastlane is the way to go for Buna (Nitrile) o-rings.

If you are worried about biodiesel/WVO compatable o-ring material use Viton. Since Fastlane does not carry Viton I bought more than I needed and have the rest up for sale on my website.

http://www.fryerpower.com/store/page11.html

-Jim

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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior.
Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles.
I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.

Dang, I ordered all the seals and gaskets for my whole IP, including the delivery valve o-rings and copper gaskets... and I even ordered the cam lock tool for pulling the pump but forget to get the spline socket tool.

I hope this can be sourced locally, or is it a MB part only?

rubber O-ring
MB# 0179974148
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=MBZ&please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&descriptio n=0179974148&x=14&y=7

Delivery Valve Washer
MB# 0049974540
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=MBZ&please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&descriptio n=0049974540&I1.x=15&I1.y=10



.

Cool.. thanks for answering my question...

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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy"

Current
Monika '74 450 SL
BrownHilda '79 280SL
FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban
Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee
Krystal 2004 Volvo S60
Gone
'74 Jeep CJ5
'97 Jeep ZJ Laredo
Rudolf ‘86 300SDL
Bruno '81 300SD
Fritzi '84 BMW
'92 Subaru
'96 Impala SS
'71 Buick GS conv
'67 GTO conv
'63 Corvair conv
'57 Nomad

I am redoing the IP pressure valve seal as well and I have a few questions. The 7x are what is depicted in the pdf file in the first post.

1) I replaced the copper washer (7f ) and the o-ring (7h ).
2) Is it OK to reuse the compression spring ( 7i )?
3) Pressure valve carrier ( 7g ) can move around inside the hole. Shall I center it? What is the exact position for this?
4) Where shall I put the copper washer? EXACTLY on top of 7g?

Thanks for your info.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

1) Good.
2) Yes.
3) It can move around, but when you re-install the holder, it must be centered to allow the holder to screw in place.
4) It just lays on top of 7g. Use a small screwdriver to get 7g and 7f mostly centered before re-installing the main holder (7).

Don't forget to use the 3-stage torque procedure, which is not mentioned in the 602/603 FSM, it's only described in the TDM (Technical Data Manual) and 605/606 FSM. Tighten to 30Nm, release, 30Nm again, release, and then tighten a third time to a final torque of 35Nm.

See the "Installation Note" on page 2 of this PDF file:

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Installation note:
To ensure that the seals of the delivery valve holders are correctly located, tighten the delivery valve holder to 30 Nm and slacken, once again tighten to 30 Nm and slacken, and tighten finally to 35 Nm.

I've got some basic questions -- why do you want to do this? In other words, is it because it leaks, or noise, or just age?

Secondly, I'm a little confused with the torque process. You have to slacken between torques? Do you just slacken a little? What does this accomplish?

1) Leaks.

2) Yes, slacken just a little (say, 1/8 to 1/4 turn). This allows 3 total tightening instances which helps fully seat the copper crush washer for a better seal.

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!