How to safely jack up a car so all four wheels are off the ground? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

xp190 · #1 01-03-2004, 10:28 AM

I use a combination of a hydraulic lift, jackstands, ramps and tires to secure the car when I need to be under it for any amount of time.

If it is two or more wheels, I use the jack that came with the car to lift up one side, put a jack stand under it where the rubber pad is, lower the car onto the jack stand, and follow the same procedure on the other side. This way I got either the front or read completely off the ground while the wheels on the other end at still on the ground. I also raise the car high enough to get my ramps under the wheels, they don't have to touch the ramps, but I put them there in case antything should happen, the car will fall on the ramps, and these are hevy duty.

lifiting the right or left side of the car is much easier, my hydraulic jack can lift both wheels from one lift point. Once I get it high enough I put a jack stand and lower the hydraulic jack a bit to even out the load. This way I have two wheels on the ground and two in the air.

Raising the car completely off the ground is a different story.

I would use at least two hydraulic jacks with wheels, so that instead of losing grip on the car, they will roll to where the car is going when you lift it from the other end. And I'm sure everyone noticed that the car will move depending on where you lift it from. Jackstands are no good when it comes to this. If the car moves too far, they will tip over and the car will fall.

xp

pmckechnie · #2 01-03-2004, 11:45 AM

Something I have been doing for many years. If I need all the wheels off at one time (rotating, etc) I don't get under the car. If I am working on something under the car, I jack up one end of the car and place two old wheels (the wider the better) under the tires. The car can't move. I then jack up the other end and use two more wheels under the tires. If I am working on something where I will need to be under the car, and have two tires off the car, I still use the wheels under the other end of the car and jack stands under the end I am working on. The wheels keep the car from moving. You can usually find old wheels at any place that sells custom wheels. I paid a buck each for 4 wheels from an old Buick.

#3 01-03-2004, 01:54 PM

pmckechnie,
Thats a good idea, I allmost forgot about this as it has been so long since I did this.

I have over twenty wheels, so if someone that lives around the Seattle area wants them for free, they can pick them up. They are off Opel Mantas and have tires on them. The tires keep them from sliding.

Free Wheels around Seattle Area

#4 01-03-2004, 05:21 PM

I operate pretty much like xp190. It all depends on what I need to do, but I use a combination of ramps, jackstands and a floor jack. I'm currently converting my barn to a shop and will have enough roof clearance for a two post lift. I can't wait.

Note: Do NOT raise the rear of your 400E with a floor jack under the differential. These diffs are mounted in rubber mounts that will fail after lifting it this way a few times. These mounts are a real pain to replace and are not cheap. Been there, done that.

If you need both rear wheels in the air for driveshaft or rear suspension work, etc, raise each side individually by the lower control arms, then put the jack stand in place under the rear jack points. Once in the air, use old wheels or something underneath for a safety measure.

Good luck,

Kestas · #5 01-03-2004, 06:28 PM

My whole life I've used fat sections of wooden logs to hold up a car. If I crawl under a car, I'll throw another log underneath for good measure.

ready-ronnie · #6 01-03-2004, 11:43 PM

Why jack the whole car up. When I rotate tires I take out the spare and put it on the first wheel spot to be rotated. ( 1 jack-up). I then work my way around the car which ever tire rotation plan I am following, finishing at the spot where the spare is. This envolves five total jack-ups. I would like to know how any body could do it with less, jack-ups, than five using jack stands.

xp190 · #7 01-04-2004, 02:55 PM

Ready-Ronnie I think I did a wheel rotation on my Acclaim with only three uses of the jack and two jackstands, but the way you rotate wheels on it is different from what I remember.

in any case, the use of the spare is a great and SAFE idea

xp

dmorrison · #8 01-04-2004, 03:31 PM

Since I did the suspension rebuild on the 82 300TD I know that you want it done safely. Nothing worse then getting under a car that your not sure about.

1. How high will your jack lift the car? A typical jack that you purchase locally only lifts to 19-20 inches above the ground. Unless you buy a longbody jack which can lift to 33 inchs.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42820

So to jack the car up higher than the 19-20" yourjack can go, you will have to jack the car up, place it on the jack stands, then place the jack on a block of wood and then continue jacking the car up higher. This is what I used to do untill I bought the jack at Harbor Freight shown above.

2. How heavy duty are your jack stands. I have the 12 ton units from HF

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34924

I had a cheapo jack stand form sears break when I first got my 560SL . Jacked up the front to change the oil and the side strap broke when I lowered the car on the stand. Fun!!

3. How flat is your work area. This is very important to have a safe setup with jack stands. If the area is tilted your creating a dangerous work situation. You want a flat, hard surface. Concrete is best. But a good flat hard surface. If it is a dirt area and the dirt is soft you will have to place the jack stands on some kind of base to prevent it from sinking into the surface.

4. Consider shimming the jacks if they are not holding the car on all 4 jackstands. Due to the flatness of the ground, the point on the car etc. You nay find that the car is not pressing on the 4 jacks evenly. consider buying a set of wooden shims at Home Depot and shim the low jack so that you know that the car is pushing down on all 4 jack as evenly as possible. This will also prevent and tipping or movement of the car while on the jacks.

5. Make sure you have sufficent work space under the car when working on the car. Trying to twist your tools or yourself under a cramped car while doing a jobs is frustrating and dangerous. also consider using air tools when under a car. an impact wrench can unbolt a nut without puting torque on the entire body of the car which could cause it to rock or move on the jackstands, and they make your job easier. If you are muscling the nuts and bolts be aware of any movement you may be causing the body of the car. many a time you have to use a breaker bar AND an extension to get a nut loose. This force is applied slow and steady and may tranmit to a movement of the car, Thats why I recommend air tools. The moment is short, swift and strong.

I was very comfortable with my setup. 4 Jack stands, 12ton units, and I ensure that each jack stand is secure and sitting flat when I work under the car. I additionally keep the jack under the car raised so it is barley touching the car, just in case the car might tilt or fall. i place the jackstands under the jack points designated in the Mercedes manual, this is the strongest section in the frame that is designed to lift the car.

This setup allowed me to do a complete suspension rebuild including the removal of the rear trailing arms, safely.

Dave

zeronero · #9 01-04-2004, 07:58 PM

The reason why I want the car on four jackstands is because I'm going to be doing lots of work on it from underneath and need the car to be level. I'm also taking all the rotors off and bringing them to a machine shop that's about 2 hours away so I need all four off at one time; don't/can't make numerous trips.

I've done this on two of my previous cars before. A '67 Firebird when I was doing major work on it, and a Porsche when I took the engine and trans out. Both cars once on the four jack stands were very solid, no movement at all. The hard part is just putting the car on the stands.

I will have level ground and good tools, will be using four 3 ton jackstands and 3 ton hydraulic jacks so that won't be a problem. I'm confident in everything, I just really wanted to know what procedure you all have used on a Mercedes since the jack and jack stand can only go in certain places under the car.

So what I have got so far is that I can use the stock jack and raise the car then slide a jack stand under the car, doing that on all four sides until done. Or, use an hydraulic jack on the front crossmember and rear lower control arms and slide two jack stands in at once, doing the front then rear.

sbourg · #10 01-05-2004, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ready-ronnie
Why jack the whole car up. When I rotate tires I take out the spare and put it on the first wheel spot to be rotated. ( 1 jack-up). I then work my way around the car which ever tire rotation plan I am following, finishing at the spot where the spare is. This envolves five total jack-ups. I would like to know how any body could do it with less, jack-ups, than five using jack stands.

Floor jack lifts middle of front cross-member, set two jack stands. Floor jack lifts middle of rear subframe, the other two jack stands. Usually I leave the jack for security at the last place jacked, if not getting under car.

I usually don't include spare in rotation, since I usually replace four at a time, keeping the best of the old as the new spare.

Steve

ready-ronnie · #11 01-05-2004, 11:59 PM

In reply to Xp190::: I would consider the fact that you have to do 2 jack-ups to remove the jack stands a total of 5 jack-ups. Is this true? Which is my point, if you have to jack-up the car to put jack-stand under the car and then jack-up the car to remove the jack stand why not just change the tire when you have it on the jack. My tire rotation is--Spare to LR, LR To LF, LF to RR, RR to RF, RF to LR as per Bridgestone for a rear-drive and 4-wheel drive car.

dmorrison · #12 01-06-2004, 02:30 AM

Mercedes does not recommend turning rotors. They recommend replacing due to the cost and problems with turning rotors.

Dave

#13 01-06-2004, 08:48 AM

Dave is exactly right. Not only does MB not recommend turning rotors but the practice has stopped for most cars with disc brakes. Grooves in old rotors are harmless and the pads wear right into them. If you are planning on machining your rotors you will be better off just buying new ones. If there is runout in your rotors they should be replaced.

zeronero · #14 01-06-2004, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by dmorrison
Mercedes does not recommend turning rotors. They recommend replacing due to the cost and problems with turning rotors.

Dave

I'm getting it done for free, if the results are not favorable then I will replace them with new ones.

csnow · #15 01-06-2004, 02:55 PM

Do not understand. Why would you not simply use the rubber jack pad points that MB provides?

In terms of 4 corners up: Totally safe, IMHO. So long as the stands are beefy enough, positioned properly, and on firm level ground. Do it all the time. Not sure what all the fuss is about. At 15 inches, it would take one hell of a lateral blow to tip the stands.

This is how one gets at things in the center of the car.