Gappy,

First your car is awesome. If I had unlimited money lying around I would buy it. But you are getting WAY too defensive. He never called your car rusty. The fact is that you live in the rust belt (I do too). So one has to take that into consideration when purchasing a car from this area. I also realize you didn't claim it to be 'Uber Collectible" but a 27 year old car selling for 12k doesn't exactly fit into the category of you run of the mill car, thus the comparison.

Like has been stated earlier, you are not going to get a forum member here to pay 12k for that car. Most of the members here that buy old cars are cheapskates and do-it-yourselfers. They are looking for deals on cars they can fix up. This is why many have steared you to ebay. That is about the only place you will get anywheres near 12k.

So good luck with the sale. I hope it works out for you and the car finds a great home with someone that will truly appreciate it.

EDIT: I don't mean that you don't appreciate it. Just hopefully the new owner does as well.

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2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD

Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD

^^^ X2 on the way too defensive. Everyone here is just trying to help and are only asking the sort of questions that anyone with the kind of money to buy your car is going to ask. Rust almost always is a "tip of the iceberg" kind of thing. And the question of the rubber also I would assume applies to the CV boots, Flex discs and anywhere else. So its more than just a whats visible kind of thing. Again hope you sell your vehicle.

Please excuse the defensiveness....I'll try to view a little clearer from the buyers side in this situation. Again, thanks for taking the time to educate me instead of ignoring!!!! Once again, more detail pics by Sunday or Monday.

What is the Flex discs?

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Tom

A flex disc is Mercedes Benz's version of a universal joint.

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'83 300D 198,000mi Howard
'03 Saturn Vue CVT 75,000mi(wifeys)

thanx

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Tom

Except one usually doesn't have to replace the universal joint of their car during the car's useful life.

It's a beautiful car. Nobody here will buy it though because you are asking about what it is worth

As for the A/C issues...here's what I do when I run across a system of "unknown status". First check to see if there is any refrigerant in the system at all. You can do this by either hooking up a gauge or just pushing in the schraeder valve on the hose for a second. If there is any refrigerant in there you are lucky (and yes it does happen). You don't have to open it up and do anything to it because it is telling you that it holds pressure. If there isn't any in it then I hook up a vacuum pump and see if it will hold a vacuum. If it does then, once again, you are lucky.

Next, you can test to see if the compressor is functioning. The pulley will turn when the belt is driving it but the compressor is only working when the center section is turning along with the pulley. That means the clutch is engaging. If it is not engaging then I usually test the clutch to see if that is the problem...apply 12V to the clutch and watch for the plate to move and listen for the click.

These tests will help to narrow down the issues with the A/C. To start with a complete tear down when all it may need is a charge is like repainting the whole car to fix that little rust bubble. It might cost as little as $100 to get the A/C working or maybe a lot more, but until you know what's wrong you can't be sure.

I recently bought a 240D which a PO had removed the belt from the A/C compressor. It had some refrigerant in it (passed test #1) so I put the belt on. I then discovered why it was removed. All of the rubber bushings which the compressor mounts on were disintegrated and the compressor bounced around like crazy. Replaced the bushings and added a can of R12 and that A/C was as good as new. $100 in parts and a couple of hours of my time was all it needed to restore it. Don't always assume the worst, especially when you are selling a car. That's the buyer's job.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Thanks Marty!
When I bought this car the AC did work fine. I have worked on a lot of aspects of different cars but not AC, only a AC clutch fix once.......so I very much appreciate the info!!

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Tom

Never had one go bad in more than a million miles of driving MB diesels, since 1969.

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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert

Thanks for the post and i do appreciate the input. I actually fit your description of the typical board member here. I have owned a wide variety of cars and trucks and this is not my typical purchase because i enjoy the work involved and this car didn't take much work.
As far as the price, I didn't know where to start. So if someone is interested at what ever price, make an offer. You are not going to insult me and the worst thing to come of it is for me to counter offer or decline your offer.

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Tom

I have something to add from personal experience, having owned a Mercedes-Benz continuously since 1969. The very fact that a car has spent time in the rust belt of road salt and chemicals has exposed it to the chemicals if driven on those roads when wet, long after an ice or snow event. All our Mercedes-Benzes that spent any time in the north country, even visiting several weeks a year, evidenced small rust spots at some point in their life at home in Texas. Some worse than others. It's an inescapable fact that has to be taken into consideration, especially if the car's paint has already bubbled in one or more spots. The rust belt, and, any extended time near the open seacoasts expose it to salt as well. As far as the price of $12,000? I would never give or offer anywhere near that figure.

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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert

Here is a variety of pictures. Let me know if you want more or have any questions.
Click on the thumbnails.

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Tom

Pass side



Windshield rubber

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Tom

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Tom

Rear hatch hinge.

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Tom