You are saying that an EZL from any 500E/E500 will work and that it is only the 1992 500SL that has CIS-E injection. I pulled one from a running 92 500SL and it didn't work in my E500. Then for kicks, I pulled the one from my E500 and put it in the 500SL and, of course, it didn't work either. Later I was told that my experiment was a dangerous one, but nothing bad happened...fortunately.

Precisely. Valid donor cars are:

1992-1994 500E/E500 (124.036)
1993-1995 500SL/SL500 (129.067)
1992-1995 500SEL/S500 (140.051)
1993-1995 500SEC/S500 (140.070)

So apparently, there is nothing wrong with my EZL. My friend with a 1992 500SEL came by and I talked him into letting me try his EZL in my E500. Well, my car didn't start. Then, to finish the troubleshooting loop, I put my EZL into his car and, guess what, his car started just fine. So my EZL is not the problem.

Symptom is that my car won't start. It cranks over and over without a problem but seems to have no spark or fuel. The car ran fine. I parked it and went into daycare to pick up my daughter and after strapping her in the carseat we were never able to pull away from the curb. The skies opened up and we were stuck in a torrential downpour fogging up the windows. Any ideas.

I guess my first attempt would be to remove, clean, and/or replace ALL the fuses, just to rule that out. (You'd be surprised at what problems dirty or hairline-cracked fuses can cause.) Next question - do you have a fancy alarm installed? I'm not sure of an easy way to tell if you are getting spark and fuel. If you have a timing light, you could connect that and see if it flashes while cranking - if so, you're getting spark, and the problem is lack of fuel. Or, spray a little starting fluid (just a little!) down the TBA and see if it tries to start - again, this would prove good spark and lack of fuel. Maybe some other experts can chime in.

Also, you may want to post over on the 500E.com forum, there are a LOT of really sharp people over there who live and breathe M119's...

(BTW - at least you saved a bundle by not having to buy an EZL! )

I must admit, I was very relieved when my EZL started up my friend's 500SEL. I figured nothing wrong with my car could be worse than replacing the EZL -- especially since I hadn't been able to source one two weeks and running. I'll post again after replacing the fuses.

I would look into replacing crankshaft postion sensor. If it doenst not see a crank agnle it won;t give to fuel or spark. Check all the fuses in the base module also. Did you have a battery run low @ any time?







Guido

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2006 Mini Cooper S
Modified,pulley,injectors,suspension
2009 E350 Sport AMG package

I replaced the crankshaft sensor, but that didn't do the trick so I put the old one back on. What fuses are you referring to and where are they? And yes, the battery may have run low at some point as the car was in storage for about 2 months prior to this happening.

Please e-mail me at: release@500Ecstasy.com

Thank you,

The fuses Guido referred to in the base module are inside the computer box (behind the right strut tower). Remove the top cover and one of the modules has four GM-style fuses on top. I have no idea why they would blow, but I guess it's worth a look.

GS We all always check these. why does a fuse blow hmm good question, Its possible maybe somebody does a jumpstart reverse polairty. I see it alot. He said he had no spark or fuel. The LH unit is controlled by that base module in the can. Its just something to check. Thats all.

__________________
500E Sold
2006 Mini Cooper S
Modified,pulley,injectors,suspension
2009 E350 Sport AMG package

The four little red 10 amp fuses are all good....unfortunately.

Drat. I think you need to determine which is the problem - lack of spark, or lack of fuel. (I guess it's possible to not have both simulaneously - but the systems are mostly separate (?) so I'd kind of think it's one or the other, not both at the same time...?)

Okay, talk about a low-tech solution. Essentially a loose positive battery terminal. Code read low voltage below 9v when 10.6v is required. There is a group of wires that fasten to the nut which holds the positive leade to the battery and those wires send voltage to the various modules of the car. My guess is that the body shop that painted my lower panels disconnected the battery by loosening the wrong screw.

Car started up after tightening screw, but after running a bit, check engine light came on the next morning and car rode with a lunging/slight hesitation when trying to maintain a given speed. According to repair facility, the code pointed to a faulty air temp sensor which I had replaced as recommended. Thanks for all the suggestions on here and don't forget to add check battery terminals when diagnosing a no start condition or an EZL that seems to be without spark.

Khari

Whoa. Talk about a strange solution! At least you figured it out - glad it wan't expensive to fix!

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I paid $150 for the misdiagnosed EZL, then spent about 1.5 weeks looking for an EZL which, at my hourly rate, is expensive. Paid another $75 for the correct diagnosis and another $275 for a mass air flow meter installed which fixed the check engine light code. Car runs great. While in the shop, I also replaced two shifter bushings at a cost of about $75 including labor. The whole ordeal was more agonizing than expensive.