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  #1  
Old 02-12-2001, 07:09 PM
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Hi all, I have some lowering springs coming in for my car, now I do know that I should probably update the shocks at the same time, because I am assuming the front shocks have to come out regardless to change the springs.

What do you guys think I should do?

I do want to improve the handling, but didn't want to change the shocks and all just yet, but if I am going to be wasting money by not doing the shocks when I install the springs I might as well wait.

What do you guys think?

Do I wait, get the shocks, then have them and the springs installed? On average or by guestimating, what do you guys think the cost involved would be?

If I want to do the springs myself, apart from the safety hazards of flying springs, is it something that with the right equipment, a DIY'er can handle or do you guys think its better left to the pro's.

If I could do the springs myself I would do it, to save money.

Though not sure how easy it would be with a couple of jack stands..

I would still have to get the spring pads too, I am not sure how low I want to go, but do not want the slammed look. I just want it to fit together nicely, with no excessive gaps in the wheel wells.

The springs in question are the neuspeed ones on their site. At the price they had, I couldn't pass it up.

So anyway, what do you guys think?

Save up and get the shocks then have the shocks and springs done at the same time or DIY the springs, get shocks later?

Thanks for the help,

Alon
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  #2  
Old 02-12-2001, 07:29 PM
nokia8860
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the shocks do not have to come off when you are changing springs. you will have to drop the subframe (forgive me as Im not to technical on the terms) so that the springs can come off.

If you look under the car the shock/spring is not the standard coilover/mcpherson setup.

It would be wise to change the shocks at the same time because the OEM shocks usally give out at 60k but most wont notice it because it wears out over time. In the long run (if you are not doing this yourself... you should do because its really not all that difficult) you will save money on doing the shock/spring install at once because you will only pay for the install once and not twice.

However, you might hold off fine for a few more miles with the OEM shocks. You just might notice a more bouncy effect as the shock is working hard to control the rebound of the stiffer/lower springs.

Also a note is that the OEM shocks are not valved to handle lowering springs.
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  #3  
Old 02-12-2001, 07:39 PM
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Springs

I would let the pros do that one! Plus they have all the tools!
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  #4  
Old 02-12-2001, 07:42 PM
NoDubs
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I think i'm going to go for the neuspeed springs as well. What a deal!!
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  #5  
Old 02-12-2001, 07:50 PM
NoDubs
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OK. I just ordered them. I think i'm going to have those installed along with new shocks, new brake pads, and my big ass dent fixed. The clear corners are coming this week as well. Next I need money for some EVO II wheels.

Does anyone know much about the spring pads? How are the #1 pads? I like low cars, but nothing outrageous. No rap star stuff. Thanks.
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  #6  
Old 02-12-2001, 08:19 PM
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Alon,

I have lowered several mercedes vehicles by now and always started to lower springs first and possible shocks later. I had a lowered 1985 190D with the stock shocks and have driven 200.000km with that car and the same set of stock shocks. The car's handling was GREAT and I could throw it square through every possible curve.
I lowered my C class with springs only as well, but recently changed the shocks for adjustable sport shocks. The C's handling still is not as good as the 190's handling.

If you do not have the proper tools, I would not change the springs myself. The new lowered springs are fairly easy to install, but the OEM's can be dangerous to remove.
Exchanging the shocks, however, is much easier and can be done yourself in the future if you decide to change them.

Last saturday I started modifying my 300CE conv. and I am going to lower that car with a set of H&R springs (no shocks, springs only).
If I were you, I would wait with the shocks; the handling of the W124 is fairly good in general and maybe you do not need anything like sport shocks...

greetingz,
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  #7  
Old 02-12-2001, 08:45 PM
NoDubs
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cool. thanks for the info. think it's still a good idea to stick with the original shocks even after 125,000 miles?
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  #8  
Old 02-12-2001, 09:34 PM
Jason M.
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Alon,

Its not a bad job, I emailed general instructions of what you'll have to do.
Good Luck

Jason M.
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  #9  
Old 02-12-2001, 10:14 PM
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wow, thanks for all the responses.

Jason, I got the E-mail, Very detailed, thank you. I am reviewing it now.

I concur that paying once would be better than twice.

I'm not any kind of tech, and really only stick to the basic maintenance, but I have done various work myself on my other cars.

I feel confident that I could tackle the job if I go very slowly and cautiously and do it say over a period of one weekend.

Having the right tools is one issue, and I would not go out to buy tools just to do it.

I will start saving up for the shocks and just wait on it.

I figure the shocks will cost about $500 for all 4. installation not included of course.

Now as to which brand of shocks, How are the bilstein hd's? I'm not looking to make the ride very harsh, I do however want it to be a bit sportier in the handling deparment.

So a good tradeoff between stock/sport shocks would be fitting to me.

Bilstein sports are probably too stiff. I was thinking of either sportline shocks, or bilstein hd's.

What do you guys think?

Alon
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2001, 10:54 PM
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Alon,

The Eibach lowering springs costs me $300 to install including a four wheel alignment. I'm not the smartest guy in the world, but I'm smart enough to know I'm not smart enough to tackle the job myself! :-)

Personally, I'd wait on the shocks, see how you like the springs, and when the ride starts to "soften" or bounce, start the shock research.

Take care,
Brian W.

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  #11  
Old 02-12-2001, 11:21 PM
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Brian, sounds good. My shocks appear fine, no excessive bounce and all, though since I do want to upgrade the shocks to something a bit firmer, I think I might just wait on it. It might cost me less to have the springs and shocks done att he same time.

I think I might look into tackling it myself though, it seems like it would be a fun project to take on.

My tire shop still owes me an alignment from when I got my rear tires as the alignment is dead perfect right now anyway, so that isn't a factor in my cost.

I'm going to price out the spring install with shocks vs justt he springs and justt he shocks and see what I come up with.

If it works out to be a better deal to do them both att he same time I'll just wait on it.

Alon
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2001, 05:29 PM
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The labor will definitely be cheaper if you change both at the same time as opposed to paying twice. $150 would be a good price, anything over $200 would seem excessive. Assuming the springs already lower the car and you do not want a slammed look, I probably would not change the spring pad. If the springs are similar to H&R Sport springs, I would recommend buying the Bilstein Sport shocks. They are made to go together. The HDs are more of a OEM replacement. The two shocks are valved differently and of different length.
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2001, 06:02 PM
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Jshiuan,

Thanks for the reply, So you think the bilstein sports would work out nicely?

My thinking is that I don't want to harshen the ride much as when I go to 17 inch wheels, they will change the ride enough for me, so I kind of wanted to go with a standard shock setup but in a sportier firmness than the factory shocks.

It was my understanding that the bilstein hd's were like 30% stiffer than the standard shocks, but thats just what I found at some website I was looking at.

On that website, it didn't show a sport application for the bilsteins for my car, but who knows, I may just be totally wrong in my thinking. hehe

Alon
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2001, 06:18 PM
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That was the advice given to me. Aside from the firmness or softness created by the valving of a shock, there is the length of the rod that has to be considered. With the stock spring you have that specified height matched up to the OEM shock. Now you're taking a modified, shorter spring, that should be matched to a shorter shock. That was the idea that was conveyed to me and I am going to order the Bilstein Sport to go with my H&R.
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  #15  
Old 02-13-2001, 07:56 PM
dlswnfrd
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Ashman

Alon, I replaced front and rear shocks on my W 124030.
For the front service I bought a coil spring retainer from J.C. Whitney for $19.95.
For the front I lifted from the side with the frame jack and placed a safety stand at the side.
I used a bottle jack under the lower control arm to hold it in place.
This would be where you could replace the spring also.
Remove the top nuts.
Remove the three lower bolts and nuts.You get new retainers with new shocks.
That's it, pure and simple.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston!!!
Donald, El Cheapo
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