I will inquire as to whether or not Phil has one, later today.

Scott:
I was re-building a 500E motor with just under 180,000mi.
The p/s pump had a wasted bearing and had eaten up it's vanes
inside the steering chamber. It was a Vickers unit. The tandem pump was "Germany only, zero on hand" just like you experienced and there were no local rebuilds available.
Desperate measures. Salvage yard time. No 500E pumps available anywhere however. The owner needed his car asap.
Time for the biggest gamble.......parts from other models.
I used the tandem pump from a 1994 S500 (140) which all used
a tandem pump. It was a ZF unit. No sweat, worked like a champ
and hooked right up. All I needed was a longer reservoir hose and it was done. The 140 ZF pump was rated at 10 bar higher output max pressure, but the owner was willing to risk it.
$125 bucks and he was on the road.
Three thousand miles later and still no problems.

Just a thought for when desperate times call for desperate measures.
DR.D

...is what I may end up ordring, too.

(any Ted Nugent fans out there?)

Thanks, Doc!!!

Scott M shell. I have 2 tandem pumps. They need building. One
is a ZF and one is a LUK. Let me know if you want one of these. I'll let them go cheap to my 500 buddies.


See. And yes Love ted nugent. Saw him 2 times in 2001. Opened up for Kiss.



email me tonight. I will still doing the suspension make over the next few weeks.



See ya Guido

__________________
500E Sold
2006 Mini Cooper S
Modified,pulley,injectors,suspension
2009 E350 Sport AMG package

1) please e-mail me your price for the ZF unit; nemo@nemonis.net

2) who can rebuild it, if I buy it?

3) "Stranglehold" (a longtime favorite of mine... AND thong-popping strippers)

; )

AHHHHHHHHHHHHH YES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SWEATY TEDDY's got a strangle hold on ya !!!!!!!!!

:p ::p :p :p :p :p :p :p

hey scott,

i have been perusing this board as of late. i came across your thread and read every single page of it with anticipation. i might (key word might) be able to swing a 1994 E420 from my gf's cousin. her car stalls all the time as well, hence why i was drawn to your thread.

anyway, i have learned that cars are very similar, regardless of manufacturer. here is what i have learned from owning a taurus SHO for the last 6 years. this might (keyword might ;-) help:

if the idle jumps around swinging a couple 100 rpm and then slowly die, it's usually the idle air bypass valve (IAB or idle air solenoid - same thing, different name) OR the MAF (which you have already ruled out). the stall happens more often when the car is cold, a/c is on or if it's really cold outside or raining. i live in oakland, so we deal with the same weather conditions.

if the car just flat out stalls while driving, only to restart in a couple of minutes, it's most likely the crank position sensor or the cam position sensor. might as well replace both for good measure.

have you checked the EGR equipment? a bad egr return tube will have havok as well.

if the car stumbles if you floor it, might want to check teh throttle position sensor.

that's all i can think of for now.

also i have had better luck buying aftermarket sensors through autozone and the like than ford. half the price and less failures. i think neihoff makes aftermarket sensors for your car. you can always buy them, try it, if no workie, then return.

oh yeah, THE NUGE ROCKS!

see ya,
Robby

__________________
92 Ford Taurus SHO 5 speed
210.5 HP 196.4 LB Torque at the wheels
silver on gray with all options
ss y-pipe with high flow cats
SS UDPs
PRO M 80mm MAF
Walbro 190lph fuel pump
Tokico struts
Eibach springs
sho shop motor mounts
edelbrock RPM
shonut aluminum sub frame bushings
26mm rear sway bar
sho shop sub frame connectors
Yokohama AVS ES100 225/55/ZR16 tires

Thanks for your post; I am, indeed, considering replacing the crankshaft position sensor (cable), soon. It is a special order (approximately $175.00) part, in most cases.

I will keep everyone up to date (as always) with my progress.

it's not the crankshaft sensor. The car wouldn't run if it was bad! Ohm it out: sb about 865 ohms +/-5%.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

(genuflecting to your expertise)

i guess bosch motronic is different than ford EECIV. on my SHO, the waterpump is right above the cps. if the pump starts leaking or if the cps just gets flat out old. the heat will temporarily short the thing out. if you let the car cool down for around 10-15 minutes, the car will start again and drive until the cps gets hot once again. problem is obviously worse if hot coolant is leaking on it.

jim, what do you think about the CAM position sensor? on SHOs (i have no practical MB experience as of yet), the symptoms are nearly the same as the crank position sensor, but the car will immediately restart after a stall. at least on my car, the cam position sensor is a snap to replace. the crank position sensor is a pita.

see ya,
Robby

__________________
92 Ford Taurus SHO 5 speed
210.5 HP 196.4 LB Torque at the wheels
silver on gray with all options
ss y-pipe with high flow cats
SS UDPs
PRO M 80mm MAF
Walbro 190lph fuel pump
Tokico struts
Eibach springs
sho shop motor mounts
edelbrock RPM
shonut aluminum sub frame bushings
26mm rear sway bar
sho shop sub frame connectors
Yokohama AVS ES100 225/55/ZR16 tires

sensor is a sealed magnetic device. So even it get 'wet', there's no problem. If it ohms out ok (around 865 ohms or so), then it's ok. At least, that's what I've seen with many MBs.

Just today, using an AST Retreiver (nice machine) at my tech's shop, it 'pointed' to the CRK Sensor (L5). But that's a standard malady when the DI module (menu #5) goes bad.

The Camshaft sensors (2 in the 500s) are normally never bad either. Forget the resistance of those but some like 1000 ohms or so.

For Scott's problem, it's none of the above. Most likely it's the tandem pump. We all learned something there.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

1) who rebuilds 500E (ZF) power steering/tandem pumps?

2) how much does it cost?

RSVP / Thank you, in advance,

hi scott,

i was thinking, did the car stall before you put the renntech chip in? have you tried pulling it and seeing if the stalling still exists?

i had a sho shop chip in my car ONCE. for two weeks straight, the car's idle would oscillate about 200 rpm, struggle to keep running and die. usually only happened in cold weather or when the car itself was cold. i pulled the chip, car was solid as a rock again. i ended up selling the chip.

just a thought,
Robby

__________________
92 Ford Taurus SHO 5 speed
210.5 HP 196.4 LB Torque at the wheels
silver on gray with all options
ss y-pipe with high flow cats
SS UDPs
PRO M 80mm MAF
Walbro 190lph fuel pump
Tokico struts
Eibach springs
sho shop motor mounts
edelbrock RPM
shonut aluminum sub frame bushings
26mm rear sway bar
sho shop sub frame connectors
Yokohama AVS ES100 225/55/ZR16 tires

Robby, I realize this is a long thread; however, I believe I have documented my stalling with *EVERY* chip I have tried, to include: 1993 500E OEM (1 year before "chipping" my 500E), 1994 E500 OEM, PAD, RENNtech, and Neil's binary.

: (

Thanks for the idea, though. I appreciate the brainstorming...