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-   -   Turbo Technics E320 parts list, installation, reviews (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-performance-paddock/178881-turbo-technics-e320-parts-list-installation-reviews.html)

bska 03-26-2008 08:07 PM

Generic setup for oil breathers on late M104 which maintain stock crankhouse ventilation during vacuum and vents crankhouse under boost:

1. valvehouse ventilation can be routed to the filterbox. Preferably via an oil catch tank.
2. install a check valve between crankhouse ventilation where the hose enters the lower part of the intake runners. This is to prevent boost creeping into crank house. Keep the hose between the lower part of the intake runners and alu plenum as is (the one which connects next to the throttle plate)
3. insert a T-piece between the check valve and crank house ventilation
4. install a second check valve on the new T outlet to prevent "fake air" to be drawn into plenum during vacuum operation.
5. install hose from the second check valve to to filter box (preferably via oil catch tank).

You may use the same type of check valves as on the brake booster line

e320_Coupe 03-27-2008 04:36 AM

W124 TT for sale in the UK
Ortolan, thanks for the pics. I'm sure there are a few of us watching this thread but not posting too much. Keep it coming.
I want to restart my conversion now that I have a little more time and this thread is great.

jfilipcic 04-12-2008 10:16 AM

Any chance someone can post pictures of the air box area for the 104?

mijo 05-18-2008 05:12 PM

a question for rybcc
in your photos i noticed a wiring mod to your idle air valve
pls enlighten us
mike

RBYCC 05-18-2008 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mijo (Post 1858690)
a question for rybcc
in your photos i noticed a wiring mod to your idle air valve
pls enlighten us
mike

Mike

Not sure what you mean.....

Ed A.

JayRash 05-24-2008 04:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brabus 3.6-24 (Post 1561235)
After the Specs i saw.
0-120 in 21 Sek ???

Thats what my BRABUS can do without a turbo ???
only the 0-60 is a bit quicker 5.7 insted of my 6 sek.
Thats not to impresive i think for a turbo conversion kit on a 3 / 3.2 liter engine.
You should at least get around 400 HP otherwice why do a turbo conversion at all.

Unfortunately man, and all with my respect and admiration to what BRABUS do and stand for, their conversion of 3.6L (like yours) on both the 12 valve and 24 valve engines is not the best. Out of my own experience and supported by posts on the web the 3.6 L by brabus is a weak engine with allot of trouble especial cylinder walls that crack. They also suffer from excess heat, and i bet my money that if any is turbo charged it wont last the day.

mia 05-24-2008 07:55 PM

great post

Ortolan 05-24-2008 10:01 PM

Ed, how did you end up solving the high engine bay temperature issue? Did you install that fan you were looking at on ebay? During summer my car actually shut down for a few hours when the temp was reading 120. :eek:

RBYCC 05-24-2008 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ortolan (Post 1864953)
Ed, how did you end up solving the high engine bay temperature issue? Did you install that fan you were looking at on ebay? During summer my car actually shut down for a few hours when the temp was reading 120. :eek:

Funny you should ask....I've spent the last hour looking for my air saw !!!

Will probably go with hood louvers like the Mosselman 300CE Silver Arrow had.

Bought quite a few different types on EBAY.


Photoshop of a Chevrolet Lumina Z34 louver....
Too large...

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...rbohoodwj6.jpg

If I am going to do it the closest to the Mosselman are the Nissan 280Z from the early eighties..

Much better scale..

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...cc/TTH11-1.jpg

This is the best scan I have of the Mosselman hood..

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/TTSA1.jpg

If I can find my high speed air saw, I might cut some sheet metal !!!

Ed

JayRash 05-25-2008 07:16 AM

Yup engine heat is becoming a real issue here too, i was thinking off custom building a thicker radiator and i will also be opening hood vents over the topmount intercooler (might install a small fan as well over the I/C) unless i go for a front mount I/C.

RBYCC 05-25-2008 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayRash (Post 1865169)
Yup engine heat is becoming a real issue here too, i was thinking off custom building a thicker radiator and i will also be opening hood vents over the topmount intercooler (might install a small fan as well over the I/C) unless i go for a front mount I/C.

I caught up with you on this thread !!!

This is the type of blower that BJ ( Ortolan ) was asking about.
Same inline type is used by NASCAR to cool the brake area

http://www.attwood-server.com/products/parts.asp?ProductID=433&path=ventilation&category=2&gtype=2&categoryname=Ventilation+Equipment&typen ame=4%22+Air+Hose&headername=Ventilation+Equipment

I was think not using it as a blower, but as a heat extractor, drawing air from the turbo area and exhausting below the car.

The louvers in your case would make sense especially above your top mounted intercooler.

I'm fortunate even in 40C + temps, my engine never runs more then 90C sitting in traffic.

There is a small plug in device that will turn your electric fans on at a lower temp.
Look down to the middle of the page for the "Cool Harness"..I use the CH-92 which turn the aux fans on at 92C

http://pages.prodigy.net/jforgione/MB_S500.html

Good luck

Ed A.

JayRash 05-26-2008 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RBYCC (Post 1865208)
I caught up with you on this thread !!!

This is the type of blower that BJ ( Ortolan ) was asking about.
Same inline type is used by NASCAR to cool the brake area

http://www.attwood-server.com/products/parts.asp?ProductID=433&path=ventilation&category=2&gtype=2&categoryname=Ventilation+Equipment&typen ame=4%22+Air+Hose&headername=Ventilation+Equipment

I was think not using it as a blower, but as a heat extractor, drawing air from the turbo area and exhausting below the car.

The louvers in your case would make sense especially above your top mounted intercooler.



I'm fortunate even in 40C + temps, my engine never runs more then 90C sitting in traffic.

There is a small plug in device that will turn your electric fans on at a lower temp.
Look down to the middle of the page for the "Cool Harness"..I use the CH-92 which turn the aux fans on at 92C

http://pages.prodigy.net/jforgione/MB_S500.html

Good luck

Ed A.

Ok since we caught up here
I need to ask you abt the split unit controller, do you know if the unit can give a continuous out put signal, or is it just a pulse output?

RBYCC 05-26-2008 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayRash (Post 1866090)
Ok since we caught up here
I need to ask you abt the split unit controller, do you know if the unit can give a continuous out put signal, or is it just a pulse output?

It is a pulsed output to the injector.
Continuous output would meant the injector is constantly firing..

Unit has a built in MAP sensor and requires a speed signal from the tach circuit.

Important to set up on a dyno where you can read AFR from a wide band O2 sensor while your making your settings in the software to reflect boost and RPM condition.

hookedon210s 05-26-2008 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayRash (Post 1865169)
Yup engine heat is becoming a real issue here too, i was thinking off custom building a thicker radiator and i will also be opening hood vents over the topmount intercooler (might install a small fan as well over the I/C) unless i go for a front mount I/C.

My 91 300TE is a non turbo but I have been using a 75 deg thermostat from the 450 motor (450 SE, SEL from 1972-1979) for years to lower the engine temperature. It has the correct size bypass close off plate and will definitely lower your engine temperatures by 12-15 deg C. I use a pair of pliers to remove the bleed check valve entirely and otherwise install the thermostat as usual. Also, IIRC Steve Brotherton (stevebfl on this forum) and his partner found a shop in Central Florida that could replace the core of our standard TE aluminum radiator with the core from a turbodiesel radiator to gain cooling capacity for their TE that they used as a tow vehicle. Mark

RBYCC 05-26-2008 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hookedon210s (Post 1866157)
My 91 300TE is a non turbo but I have been using a 75 deg thermostat from the 450 motor (450 SE, SEL from 1972-1979) for years to lower the engine temperature. It has the correct size bypass close off plate and will definitely lower your engine temperatures by 12-15 deg C. I use a pair of pliers to remove the bleed check valve entirely and otherwise install the thermostat as usual. Also, IIRC Steve Brotherton (stevebfl on this forum) and his partner found a shop in Central Florida that could replace the core of our standard TE aluminum radiator with the core from a turbodiesel radiator to gain cooling capacity for their TE that they used as a tow vehicle. Mark

No comparison....twin turbos on a M103 or M104 develop tremendous amount of heat........even more then what a W124 V8 produces !

Stock radiator and a proper cooling system allows the boosted engine to run no more then 90C in hot weather.

Still a great deal of residual heat when you shut the engine down....that's why I'm considering fans or extractor louvers....


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