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Generic setup for oil breathers on late M104 which maintain stock crankhouse ventilation during vacuum and vents crankhouse under boost:
1. valvehouse ventilation can be routed to the filterbox. Preferably via an oil catch tank. 2. install a check valve between crankhouse ventilation where the hose enters the lower part of the intake runners. This is to prevent boost creeping into crank house. Keep the hose between the lower part of the intake runners and alu plenum as is (the one which connects next to the throttle plate) 3. insert a T-piece between the check valve and crank house ventilation 4. install a second check valve on the new T outlet to prevent "fake air" to be drawn into plenum during vacuum operation. 5. install hose from the second check valve to to filter box (preferably via oil catch tank). You may use the same type of check valves as on the brake booster line |
W124 TT for sale in the UK
Ortolan, thanks for the pics. I'm sure there are a few of us watching this thread but not posting too much. Keep it coming. I want to restart my conversion now that I have a little more time and this thread is great. |
Any chance someone can post pictures of the air box area for the 104?
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a question for rybcc
in your photos i noticed a wiring mod to your idle air valve pls enlighten us mike |
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Not sure what you mean..... Ed A. |
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great post
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Ed, how did you end up solving the high engine bay temperature issue? Did you install that fan you were looking at on ebay? During summer my car actually shut down for a few hours when the temp was reading 120. :eek:
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Will probably go with hood louvers like the Mosselman 300CE Silver Arrow had. Bought quite a few different types on EBAY. Photoshop of a Chevrolet Lumina Z34 louver.... Too large... http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...rbohoodwj6.jpg If I am going to do it the closest to the Mosselman are the Nissan 280Z from the early eighties.. Much better scale.. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...cc/TTH11-1.jpg This is the best scan I have of the Mosselman hood.. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/TTSA1.jpg If I can find my high speed air saw, I might cut some sheet metal !!! Ed |
Yup engine heat is becoming a real issue here too, i was thinking off custom building a thicker radiator and i will also be opening hood vents over the topmount intercooler (might install a small fan as well over the I/C) unless i go for a front mount I/C.
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This is the type of blower that BJ ( Ortolan ) was asking about. Same inline type is used by NASCAR to cool the brake area http://www.attwood-server.com/products/parts.asp?ProductID=433&path=ventilation&category=2>ype=2&categoryname=Ventilation+Equipment&typen ame=4%22+Air+Hose&headername=Ventilation+Equipment I was think not using it as a blower, but as a heat extractor, drawing air from the turbo area and exhausting below the car. The louvers in your case would make sense especially above your top mounted intercooler. I'm fortunate even in 40C + temps, my engine never runs more then 90C sitting in traffic. There is a small plug in device that will turn your electric fans on at a lower temp. Look down to the middle of the page for the "Cool Harness"..I use the CH-92 which turn the aux fans on at 92C http://pages.prodigy.net/jforgione/MB_S500.html Good luck Ed A. |
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I need to ask you abt the split unit controller, do you know if the unit can give a continuous out put signal, or is it just a pulse output? |
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Continuous output would meant the injector is constantly firing.. Unit has a built in MAP sensor and requires a speed signal from the tach circuit. Important to set up on a dyno where you can read AFR from a wide band O2 sensor while your making your settings in the software to reflect boost and RPM condition. |
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Stock radiator and a proper cooling system allows the boosted engine to run no more then 90C in hot weather. Still a great deal of residual heat when you shut the engine down....that's why I'm considering fans or extractor louvers.... |
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