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The TurboTechnics kit has a split exhaust header, one for each turbo which results in two down pipes. The twin pipes run all the way to the rear silencer which accepts the twin two inch pipes. A true dual exhaust system. |
So you just put the O2 boss in one of the pipes?
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This is my solution.
The exhaust shop said that I shouldn't stagger the cats because the distance between the O2 sensor and the cats should be as close as possible to the original. Don't know why. I also went for an X-pipe to balance the exhaust banks. Whatever that means. :) |
Some pictures.
Intercooler duct. http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...lerducting.jpg Intercooler. http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g.../intercool.jpg Engine. Note that I moved the MAF sensor further along the intake pipe. This will make it easier to change, should I need to, and there's plenty of room there. http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...photos/tt1.jpg Setting up the Split Second Injector controller. http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...photos/aj1.jpg http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...os/ttgraph.jpg |
Nice.
I like the torque better! :-) neil |
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Ortolan, Thank you very much for the pics, and sorry for delayed response. It looks like you are not using the breather system supplied with the TT kit at all. The intake tap is plugged/terminated, and the the 2 hoses I referenced look like the original ones. I see no additional components from the TT kit. Maybe whoever did your install simply ignored the TT breathing system and just plugged the hole on the intake iron casting? |
My mechanic made numerous deviations from the standard kit during the conversion of my car so this is no surprise.
My car is currently listed on ebay, in case there are any AU/NZ members on here: |
Hello to you all, I´m new at the forum!
I have just installed the Turbo Technics kit on my 1990 300CE with the M103 engine. I have a few questions I hope some of you might be able to answer as I have some issues after installing it. I wonder about how to set up the fuel pressure regulators. The way I did it was to route the main fuel line to the regulator for the additional injectors, then route the hose from that to the stock fuel pressure regulator. The fuel return line remains the same. I then linked the MAP sensor, and both fuel pressure regulators to the intake manifold. I scrapped all the supplied electronics and replaced them with an ERL MF2 unit. I got the car running, but there are som slight issues. It seems that however much gain I adjust on the MF2, the AFR readings would go far above 14:1. I would like to get the readings to about 12.5:1. The green light goes on, so it fires the additional injectors, but the car stalls a bit in the middle of the rpm range. This leads me back to the "vacuum" line for the fuel pressure regulators. These were made for vacuum, or am I wrong? I thought that if these got boost, they would actually decrease the fuel pressure? Also another issue that I encountered was that, whenever under boost, I get a hard spot on the pedal. If I push past that, the car gears down. If I kickdown, the automatic gearbox would shift up and pull all the way to the redline, but it won´t shift down again without me releasing the pedal...Is the vacuum line for the gearbox supposed to be re-routed? The supplied documentation for this kit wasn´t exactly detailed :rolleyes: Hope to get some help with this :D Regards from Norway! Forgot to tell that I noticed the system would not hold the fuel pressure for a long time after the engine was turned off. I would wait a few minutes and when I loosened the nut on the main fuel supply line, it would be no over pressure left. Maybe a one-way valve on the supply, or the accumulator is bad? That way I might not have the required pressure also under driving conditions? |
you should probebly just run one fuel pressure regulator, and no two, and make it after all of the injectors, so all injectors have the same fuel pressure, it sounds confusing how you have it
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Nice work!,thats one long intake =) was there insufficient room to remove the windsheild washer bottle and mount the intake and Maf there?...i guess it gets alittle tricky with two intakes;)
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If that's the unit I'm thinking of it will never trim as you want it. Try the Split Second AIC unit which is 3D mappable through it's software. I'm at an average of 12.8:1 AFR with 11.8:1 AFR under boost. The unit has an internal MAP sensor. Routing the main fuel line to the additional injectors first is not correct. This is probably why your fuel pressure is not correct. Connect the original supply to the original location. The fuel return hose should go to the second fpr. The second fpr should maintain about 2.5 bar on the added injectors. Did you perform you settings on a dyno? Ed A. |
No performing at a dyno yet. I found that it was a bad solder that prevented the ERL from performing like it should. The ERL MF2 is actually very nice, and also 3d mappable via potentiometers. A potentiometer is provided per 1000rpm, it is not stepping, but has got smooth changeover points. You also have the ability to adjust gain and map-sensor threshold. So just as good as the Split Second, but just a bit more "manual" :)
The rubber hose on the TT-cast seemed not to be long enough to reach the fuel return line fitting on the fuel distributor, but fitted perfectly to the original fpr. Do you have any pictures of your install? I know that the manual said otherwise, but it just seemed wrong as the hose did not have the required lenght...And did you install the over boost fuel-cut relay, or just scrap that as well? As for the transmission, I see that I am not the only one having problems..Jayrash seems to have somewhat the same problem with his tranny. I thought the modulators were designed for vacuum and not boost. I see mine shifting like a charm on low revs without boost, but goes banana on kickdown. Maybe a check-valve might help me out here? :confused: |
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In essence, leave the KE-Jetronic III and EZL untouched. Assume the ERL is firing the additional injectors. Does it have an internal MAP sensor? I changed out the intake and boost tubing, getting rid of the supplied coil hoses. The Fram panel filter that is provided actually blocks airflow from the bottom intake in the airbox. Best to replace it with a K&N unit. I'm not using any timing retard device which TT provided but only because they could not enrich enough. Check your turbo waste gate settings. Mine were adjusted for about 6psi. Shortened them while on the dyno and now have 7psi. Last pulls weere rwp of 262HP and 302 torque on a Mustang load dyno. Just installed a boost gauge and this weekend installing a Hallman Pro RX manual boost controller. This should even out the wastegate opening on each turbo and give me the potential to increase boost. I'll post some pix...note the vacuum lines, took awhile to figure out but works as they should. Been running for almost two years since the install with zero problems. Don't think your trans problem is related to the TT install. http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/?action=view¤t=300CEDYNO.flv http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...c/TTCM20-1.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/TTCM21.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/TTCM22.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/TTCM3.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/TTV4.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/TTV3.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/rbycc/TTCM10.jpg |
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