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Old 08-07-2011, 09:37 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 5,338
Megasquirt on my M110

Finally found the time to buckle down and get to work on the M110.

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Decided on mounting the relay box on the right fenderwell. I didn't care for this spot because the exhaust is on this side. There isn't enough room on the firewall, mounting it in my preferred location (left front fenderwell) is counter productive due to the length of the controller cable required.
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A better view without all the wiring mess in the way. Mounting it this close to the shock tower has it's drawbacks but the pluses out weigh them. The front two holes have to be drilled through a doubled metal area. A fact I discovered at the cost of an expensive drill bit. It has to mounted far enough forward to allow access to the DB37 connection with a screwdriver to tighten the locking screws. A fact which was discovered the hard way as once the cable is in place you can't access the rear hold down bolts to tighten them. This also worked out well on my '74 as it gave me easy access to the needed power. The sensors will also be on this side (coolant, O2 and intake temp) so it shortened up my wiring runs.
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I would suggest BUYING the relay cable pre-made. Unless you are adept at fine wire soldering and have a solder pencil it is a real pain. You need to remove one of the DB37 housings to feed it through the hole in the firewall. The image is purposely fuzzy to not show my nasty-arsed soldering job.
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Where the controller unit is located. It will be hidden by the under dash knee cover. When you mount it take care to leave enough room for cable access to BOTH ends of the unit. The DB37 will be attached on the side closest to the hole in the firewall and the DB9 tuning cable has to have enough room for easy connections. Oh yes, once again, the box needs to be mounted BEFORE you install the DB37 cable. Frick!
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Rough mounted showing the cable running through the firewall. It was at THIS point I discovered the whole screwdriver/mounting problem.
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