W202 c230k supercharger delete - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Coopressor · #16 02-06-2014, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whipplem104

I am not so sure the ecu is this discerning. In my experience it is really just looking for open/short. You are right though on some motors the computers check for ohms to ground after they shut off. Like the ABS/ASR pump is later years. But they switch power and monitor through the relay. The supercharger clutch is supplied with 12vlts fused and then ecu controls ground directly.
It might overload the ecu's driver to run an electric air pump though.
I can tell you that the air pump would not last very long as it would be running all the time as the computer would think that it is the supercharger clutch and it is applied a little more than just for secondary air injection.
I still say put in a non kompressor ecu. It solves all of these problems. It would cost about what ever a used ecu costs from a salvage yard and around 2-300 to have it unlocked and then just another hundred or so to have someone with a star machine marry it to your car. Or just sell the car and buy a non kompressor car.

The circuit should work as its relying on the switchover valve which is only active during cold start. so it calls for sec air, contacts for the switchover relay and the clutch relay close allowing for 12 to be supplied to the air pump. I will keeo the ecu swap in mind but we rarely get these cars in the pick n pulls, theres a c220 there now but thats the first in like 6 months.

Coopressor · #17 02-07-2014, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duxthe1

Easy!

on second look im a lil confused. wheres the 12v feed coming from? or i just tap off a 12v line? thru the relays to the air pump then the coils to switchover/clutch?

Coopressor · #18 02-07-2014, 07:55 PM

duxthe1 · #19 02-08-2014, 10:46 AM

In that schematic the relay contacts look to be wired like a logic "OR", and you need an "AND". Simply put, wire in the first relay as if it were a single relay controlling a high current load. Then ignoring that the first relay exists at all, do the exact same thing again.

For 12V+, you should use a 40A fused connection to battery power, taken from somewhere that can carry the amperage load.

Coopressor · #20 02-10-2014, 10:39 PM

ohhh yeah eh shoulda drawn spst not spdt. thanks a bunch eh! looks like a trip to radio shack and the pick n pull is in order! now if you could bless me with your wisdom one last time, to do with extra injector/rrfpr: should i put the rrfpr after the stock fpr with the injectors teeing off between? or can i get away with replacing stock fpr with 4 bar and teeing off the fuel rail at the depressuring nut? i saw Pagz build had no fuel pressure drop at near 400bhp on stock pump. ive just seen it done a bunch of different ways so im wondering what would work best. thanks

duxthe1 · #21 02-11-2014, 07:45 PM

The stock FPR should be a rising rate regulator, rated at 4 bar.

KumB · #22 03-27-2014, 11:18 AM

Hi Coop,

Any news?