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1995 E320 Horsepower Gains
Is it feasible to increase the horsepower on a 1995 E320?
If so, do I need to do anything with the transmission? I am beginning a transmission overhaul, so if I can strengthen the the transmission now now I might as well do it. I have the M104 engine, and I believe the 722.3 transmission. |
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The real answer is "It depends"
How much power do you intend to make and through what means?
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90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff Last edited by duxthe1; 02-01-2020 at 12:20 PM. |
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Somewhere between 300 & 400 HP would be awesome. I suppose that wide range indicates my level of knowledge here. I don’t need more horsepower than I know how to steer (or do I?). I would enjoy modifying the car & learning, more than driving it after I’m done. It will also provide a good opportunity for me to teach my growing boys about cars. Can I change the displacement? Can I fit high flow parts for intake & exhaust? Any turbo or super charger options? Does the computer severely limit what’s possible? Also, I have a very high risk tolerance and I am willing to fail completely here
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1995 E320 W124 M104 722.3 |
#4
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I’d say the easiest way to get more hp would be to get a e420
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1993 e300 1995 e320 1994 e320 2006 s500 4matic 2004 Jeep wj overland 2001 Ducati 748 2004 Honda shadow aero |
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Boost will be your no 1 option but you will dig deep in your pockets.
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I think the best advice is to pick a direction and go for it. 6-8 PSI of boost will get you over 300HP pretty easy and not be a ticking timebomb. Transmission wise a competent basic rebuild should be adequate for the power you're targeting.
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90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff |
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I am thinking the displacement change would be the most fun & educational, but I am only thinking about physically changing my block (i.e. boring out the cylinders, changing the pistons & crank shaft). I believe I have the 3.2L engine. I found engine specs here: M104 2.8L 3.2L 3.6L bore and stroke I did a quick search for the 3.6L engine and saw prices around $3k, which is not only high but also doesn’t provide so much learning. So I have these questions: 1) Are there any meaningful differences in the engine blocks used with the 3.2L and 3.6L M104 engines? 2) Can my block accommodate a bore & stroke change to convert it to the 3.6L specs? 3) Would my computer changes be limited to over-writing the software with what ever is used in a 1995 Mercedes with the 3.6L? 4) Can I convert to 3.6L with a 3.6L short block, while using my intake & exhaust parts?
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1995 E320 W124 M104 722.3 |
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Conclusion, building a 3.6 is a losing proposition. Not impossible, but the long way around without any benefit, more cost, and plenty of opportunity to screw it up.
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90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff |
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What are your thought on using the OM603 3.5L Crank Shaft & keeping the same bore?
Useful 3.2L M104 Specs and using Honda Connecting Rods
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1995 E320 W124 M104 722.3 |
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With om 603 crank u will need shorter rods, low compression height pistons with really short skirt. Just short rods stock piston will hit the crank and is still over deck way too much. M111 piston and rod combo might work but i havent tested yet. Problably u will need to bore block too, i dont remember if m111 had same bore version. Short rod was i think in 2.0 and 2.3 versions.
Boost is the way to go. |
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This, outside of having a donor 3.6 car to swap everything from.
It is cool to have a 3.6 swap but boost can make far more power.
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90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff |
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1993 190E 2.6 Sportline |
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How much boost can the 3.2L block withstand before bad things happen?
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1995 E320 W124 M104 722.3 |
#14
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The block is not the weak link. In order of failure basically stock pistons 1st. At around 500hp. They will last here but if you breath some knock on them at this point they will collapse the ring lands. I think you could get 100-200 more out of them at least for a little while. I have run 11-12lbs of boost with a supercharger for many years on these. Probably add a bit more from a turbo since parasitic loss is lower. Given a proper sized turbo a well put together motor with good exhaust system that can breath and head studs. I think you could get to around 800hp before the headgasket started failing. This is an assumption but I think a reasonable one. Cometic gaskets or something of that nature and some minor tweeks to the block and 1000+ is with in target. I made over 900 ft/lbs of torque with an om606 which is basically the same platform. You could make a lot less tq and make some good hp up top with the m104.
Stick with the smaller bore 3.2l and spend your money on a good tubular turbo manifold and a proper turbo that does not cost 50.00 and you can make a lot of power on these. Dump the stock ecu completely and go aftermarket. Way easier and more reliable. OE stuff is really old and you should basically replace the entire fuel supply system. |
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Right now everybody wants to sell me full m111, if i sourse pistons and rods and they will rotate, then there will be new thread. |
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