Project BADwagon 1984 300TDt Om606 6 speed - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rwd4evr · #16 01-21-2021, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fonzi

Now that sounds like maybe a reason to build that r107 drift car. No custom subframe required, when you can just use a 560sl rear subframe.

Nope. W140 rear isn't the same as a gen 2 w126/r107. It's closer for sure but the front mount is different. I'm gonna give the old
c-bomb one more year with the new rear setup and the front mods I have planned. Fix the rust and throw a ****ty paint job on. Too much else on the plate for a full build.

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atypicalguy · #17 01-21-2021, 10:27 PM

All that special tool crap is only to crush the pinion sleeve. You can swap all the guts and check the lash without touching that. You can even change the input flange without messing up the crush; just don't get carried away. You need to put one ring bolt in after putting the carrier assembly back in, but you can just torque that one in place. Rig up a dial indicator on a mag stand. The spacers are specific to the case; none of the dimensions change to the bearing races so just transfer the ring to the new center assembly, confirm the lash is within spec and check the gear mesh pattern and close it up. It doesnt care what rpm you launch at.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwd4evr

I'm using the w126 gen 2 210mm case in this car for the 2.82 asd. It's going to be no different than the modified by Mercedes gen 2 subframe. Underneath it is identical to the gen 1 minus the 4 holes drilled for the diff mount and the small plates for the front mount. It's the same size as the v8 w124 cars as well and every v8 car besides certain special models and the v12 with the reinforced diff. From what I've seen the axle is the weak link and the reinforced uses the same drive spline so...... I'm building another similar subframe for my SLC drift car that will house a w140 3.69 210mm diff. Simply because I don't have the tools to confidently swap the guts and have them absolutely perfectly setup like a factory part would be. 6000rpm clutch dumps say they need to be.
As far as "plug the guts into the w123 pumpkin", the w123 housing is a 185mm. I could use a r107/w126 v8 housing, but the fact that the side spacers and pinion spacers are listed in the epc with .05 mm increments to set the gear lash I'd be much happier to modify the subframe which I'm 100% confident will work without a problem. Plus the main reason is to have the ASD hydraulic locker at my disposal. No gen 1 cars ever used ASD so it wouldn't be usable. I am picking up a second 3.69 diff and I would love to build a 3.69 or 3.46 ASD LSD diff for a street/drift car without a welded diff. But the 3.46 LSD I have is too valuable to take apart really.

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rwd4evr · #18 01-22-2021, 02:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atypicalguy

All that special tool crap is only to crush the pinion sleeve. You can swap all the guts and check the lash without touching that. You can even change the input flange without messing up the crush; just don't get carried away. You need to put one ring bolt in after putting the carrier assembly back in, but you can just torque that one in place. Rig up a dial indicator on a mag stand. The spacers are specific to the case; none of the dimensions change to the bearing races so just transfer the ring to the new center assembly, confirm the lash is within spec and check the gear mesh pattern and close it up. It doesnt care what rpm you launch at.

I'm not sure that is absolutely correct. Changing the ratio(from the mid 2.xx to 3.08 carrier to the 3.27-3.69) and therefore the carrier would very likely change what spacers needed to be used. I could be wrong but it's not a procedure I'm going to test out on a perfectly good diff, plus then if I do break it Ive got to build a new one every time instead of bolting in a $54 welded diff. The LSD isn't up to the task of being used in my drift car (where the welded 3.69 is going)at all anyway. I've got a 3.46 LSD I would use if it were the case. The ASD 2.82 is going in this wagon and there is no gen 1 case ASD to even screw around with.

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rwd4evr · #19 01-31-2021, 12:57 AM

Yay! I got a new to me om617 long block to throw in my SD so I can take the wagon out of service backup status and actually do the necessary fab work(when I have time) It's got issues anyway. The rear axle is a total mess and no rear brakes it appears as well. I've been driving a 300d my friend gave me after some quack indie screwed her out of a bunch of money throwing brake parts at it and not the right ones. Needed vacuum pump check valves and a master cylinder, the booster was completely full of brake fluid. It is also a pile though. I miss the SD.

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VaiFanatic · #20 02-02-2021, 03:49 PM

You're attempting a dream build for me, so this is going to be an interesting project to follow to be sure.

rwd4evr · #21 02-02-2021, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VaiFanatic

You're attempting a dream build for me, so this is going to be an interesting project to follow to be sure.

Yeah I'm excited. I never thought I'd find a wagon worth building that was In my price range. Soon as my SD is back on the road I'll start the motor removal. I'm actually considering mounting the 606 up in a w123 coupe I have here just to get the motor mount fabrication and fitment stuff done in a shell I don't care about. Also then the wagon is still drivable and not yardsaled all over the shop for who knows how long it may take to get it all ready to go. I do really wish there was a w116 or even w126 wagon to build. Such A shame there are only a few coach built specimens out there.

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VaiFanatic · #22 02-02-2021, 08:49 PM

If you're not afraid of metalwork, you could always make your own wagon. After spending a considerable amount of time over on the GRM forum, I've seen all sorts of custom creations.

I wouldn't mind doing this to an SEC either, probably like a 380 or something so the purists don't cry at the idea of tearing up a perfectly good 500/560. The problem with coupes, like S123s, is that they are skyrocketing in price, even for a basketcase of a car.

Hell, 2.3-16s are up to almost $10,000 for a ratty shell of car...

Though, I really need to do something about the 170S I've got that I've made no progress on in almost 10 years of having it. Finding a modern, small form factor motor is next to impossible, and find a more recent MB motor (like the M111) with a manual behind it is also impossible.

rwd4evr · #23 02-02-2021, 09:42 PM

I've pondered and stared and measured, Trust me. This car is going to get used thoroughly so leaky rickety concept car isn't in the cards yet. If I was going that far I'd do it to something way cooler too. Actually talked to my buddy who does fine cabinetry about a Woody w111 wagon . My 300sd may become an elcamino with a removable cap at some point too.

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VaiFanatic · #24 02-02-2021, 11:49 PM

I've been driving the 500SE off and on, and I'm just unhappy with the automatic in it. I've got a T5 from a turbo'd 280ZX, but after all my reading in the Non-MB trans swap thread, I'm wondering if I want to go through the work for a one-off fabrication, where when time comes for a flywheel/clutch replacement down the road I'm engineering a replacement again.

If I'm going to do all that work, may as well swap in a motor that's already got the aftermarket there for manual transmission parts. The LS is so cliche... but it just works.

I've manual swapped my F350, and I'm about to do the same to my '98 Durango, but the thing about those two is that the motors in both of those had manuals as factory options (the 5.9 Magnum V8 in the Durango was also used in the Ram trucks, which came with the NV4500 in the heavier duty trucks), so those swaps are pretty straight forward.

I'm happy to continue living with the Euro M117 in the 500SE, but I'm tired of that gearbox, and I've no interest in rebuilding another 722.xxx. Decisions, decisions.

rwd4evr · #25 02-03-2021, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VaiFanatic

I've been driving the 500SE off and on, and I'm just unhappy with the automatic in it. I've got a T5 from a turbo'd 280ZX, but after all my reading in the Non-MB trans swap thread, I'm wondering if I want to go through the work for a one-off fabrication, where when time comes for a flywheel/clutch replacement down the road I'm engineering a replacement again.

If I'm going to do all that work, may as well swap in a motor that's already got the aftermarket there for manual transmission parts. The LS is so cliche... but it just works.

I've manual swapped my F350, and I'm about to do the same to my '98 Durango, but the thing about those two is that the motors in both of those had manuals as factory options (the 5.9 Magnum V8 in the Durango was also used in the Ram trucks, which came with the NV4500 in the heavier duty trucks), so those swaps are pretty straight forward.

I'm happy to continue living with the Euro M117 in the 500SE, but I'm tired of that gearbox, and I've no interest in rebuilding another 722.xxx. Decisions, decisions.

Use a bwm e36 2.8 or m3 high performance single mass replacement. Replaceable friction surface so only initial fitment modifications. Its 8 bolt so oval out the holes and center bore correction. Should be able to source a small disc that is compatible. Not sure what that Nissan input shaft is. I would bag that and go mustang t5 for parts availability and upgrades. Plus ratio in the z trans is idk what. Hack off an auto bell behind the pump flange or get a 722.6 bell. Adapter plate.

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VaiFanatic · #26 02-03-2021, 07:46 PM

Doing some looking around last night, and the M113 is getting fairly inexpensive for a sub-100k mile take out. I've seen a handful of examples of folks having good luck with the 6-speed manual out of the Crossfire, since it all bolts right up. Seems to handle the torque okay as well, at least on the naturally aspirated motors. I'm not looking at smoking people off the line, so NA is more than okay with me. Baseline MS tunes are out there for the M113, but I wouldn't be adverse to keeping the stock engine management if I had an entire, running donor vehicle to transfer everything over.

Hmm, never thought about the 722.6 bellhousing. Like the Mustang T5, the 280ZX T5 has a removable bellhousing but yeah... ratios.

rwd4evr · #27 02-04-2021, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VaiFanatic

Doing some looking around last night, and the M113 is getting fairly inexpensive for a sub-100k mile take out. I've seen a handful of examples of folks having good luck with the 6-speed manual out of the Crossfire, since it all bolts right up. Seems to handle the torque okay as well, at least on the naturally aspirated motors. I'm not looking at smoking people off the line, so NA is more than okay with me. Baseline MS tunes are out there for the M113, but I wouldn't be adverse to keeping the stock engine management if I had an entire, running donor vehicle to transfer everything over.

Hmm, never thought about the 722.6 bellhousing. Like the Mustang T5, the 280ZX T5 has a removable bellhousing but yeah... ratios.

I can get m113 and all the relatives for 256$ all day at the pick a part junkyards. But it's like a box of chocolates

Been waiting for that m112 6 speed to pop up too. They are about perfect power level(m113 5.0 and a 6 speed) for a grassroots drift car. Any more and it starts getting real expensive on tires.

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VaiFanatic · #28 02-04-2021, 12:55 AM

Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking.

I think that's why I'm going to look for a running pullout and pay a little extra for something that's been tested.

I've only seen one M113 at the yard here over the last 12 years, and that was just a few months back. They don't usually end up in yards in here for some reason or another.

The more I think about it, the more I think that's the way to go. Maybe then do the same with the 300SEL if I can ever get that thing road worthy again.

rwd4evr · #29 02-04-2021, 01:02 AM

Early e500 clk500 s500 pop up all the time. Lots are towed from Baltimore off the street. So really who knows but I'll bet plenty of jailbirds didn't make it to court before the 18 days are up.

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VaiFanatic · #30 02-04-2021, 01:38 AM

Maybe that will start happening here, too. Getting a running, driving car wouldn't be bad.