Project BADwagon 1984 300TDt Om606 6 speed - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rwd4evr · #31 02-04-2021, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VaiFanatic

Maybe that will start happening here, too. Getting a running, driving car wouldn't be bad.

Can't dissagree when doing a swap. Just not alot is going to be getting used from one of those cars in a trailing arm or swing axle car. I've got tons of parts cars to rob ancillaries from. E 430 are dirt cheap. Or a s500 with blown air struts. Eh. Diesel power!!!

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VaiFanatic · #32 02-04-2021, 01:17 PM

What I've also noticed is that it appears you can retain the stock recirculating ball steering with the M113, unlike other options where you're looking at a rack and pinion setup from like a W210.

The biggest constraints on me right now, and have been for years now, are both time to do anything, and space to do it in.

rwd4evr · #33 02-05-2021, 04:08 PM

Yeah. I've done tons of research on rack conversions and more specifically the correct geometry needed to do it. I drive my cars very hard and just "putting a rack in" is not a viable option. There are so many things going on that 95% of the conversion threads don't address or understand. Bump steer is a result of many different alingments and arcs of all the components. Rack location forward backward up down, width between inner tie rods, tie rod length.... I'm soooo glad I never just jumped in and made it happen because I would probably not have been happy with the results. I'm throwing one more round of mods in my 450slc with the steering box to get that few more degrees of steering I need for a safety net drifting with 2,3,4,5,6 or whatever car trains that start happening at the level I'm getting to now. I do have a very good idea of how to do it and retain the same basic geometry of the existing steering. A w123 and w126 is a whole different animal though.

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VaiFanatic · #34 02-05-2021, 04:43 PM

I seem to be in the minority of folks who actually likes the stock recirculating ball steering, so being able to keep it is a priority if possible.

I don't intend to track or drive the car super aggressively while putting down absurd amounts of torque. I just want a smoother V8, with a bit more to it, and the ability to shift my own gears for a comfortable driver.

I still need to revisit the pedal box to revise the clutch pedal.

rwd4evr · #35 02-05-2021, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VaiFanatic

I seem to be in the minority of folks who actually likes the stock recirculating ball steering, so being able to keep it is a priority if possible.

I don't intend to track or drive the car super aggressively while putting down absurd amounts of torque. I just want a smoother V8, with a bit more to it, and the ability to shift my own gears for a comfortable driver.

I still need to revisit the pedal box to revise the clutch pedal.

I love it. It feels great with a smaller wheel. My issue is the linkage has less than ideal geometry for getting ridiculous amounts of steering angle in a drift car. Plus I really want to put an m119 in the car and m119 and steering box does not get along unless it's in a w126. Not sure on a w123 but it coñsiderably narrower. Nothing wrong with an LS swap except it's another LS swap. If you are serious look into Canton oil pans and Nissan S13/14 chassis swap steel front sump pans. They look ideal if not drop in you can easily trim and weld.
I have w126 manual pedals here. I'm copying the clutch pedal for my 300sd(

). W123 pedals will fit but they sit just a hair higher And could possibly interfere with stuff above them, I haven't looked. The parts are all actually available from Mercedes. The bracket is the same but the post to hang the pedal needs to be extended. All the other mount parts and the casting are the same and present.

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VaiFanatic · #36 02-05-2021, 10:49 PM

I want to avoid the LS cliche, but it is hard to argue with. I am ultimately leaning on the M113, ditching the MB engine management and going standalone.

However, having those oil pan suggestions to fall back on isn't a bad thing. I'll be better setup to weld aluminum once I get a TIG here at the house.

rwd4evr · #37 02-06-2021, 01:56 AM

I just bought one and haven't touched it yet. Got the Vulcan pro tig 205 with a 15% coupon for 850$. Need to get my argon bottle still. It gets great reviews from everyone.
You would have to be nuts or a rocket scientist to try to use the MB computer. Especially with a manual. It's been done a few times in the car but separating it from everything is a whole different ballgame.

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VaiFanatic · #38 02-06-2021, 04:03 AM

I'm looking at something that's multiprocess, so I'll have another MIG if I need it, and can also do stick. I use big ass synchrowave 350 at the shop, but I'm not going to go that crazy for here at the house. I don't have 220V yet, and I don't think my sub-panel is up to the task for a 220V.

I'm a bit of both, but I'd rather not deal with it if I don't have to, heh. Being able to run diagnostics with MS will be better for reliability anyway. I'm going to attempt to get my hands on a motor in the next few weeks, while keeping my eyes peeled for the crossfire box.

rwd4evr · #39 02-06-2021, 07:32 AM

I looked at multi process but none I could afford were ac/DC. Useless to me if I can't do aluminum.

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VaiFanatic · #40 02-06-2021, 01:29 PM

Yeah, if it can't do AC/DC is is worthless to me, especially since space is limited, hard to justify having more than two machines. The Hobart MIG I currently have is reasonably portable enough, and still gets the job done since I'm welding FCAW. I'll save the gas I get for TIG.

rwd4evr · #41 02-06-2021, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VaiFanatic

Yeah, if it can't do AC/DC is is worthless to me, especially since space is limited, hard to justify having more than two machines. The Hobart MIG I currently have is reasonably portable enough, and still gets the job done since I'm welding FCAW. I'll save the gas I get for TIG.

Flux core makes me want to kill myself. It has its moments it is good, but anywhere a mig isn't inappropriate it is sooooo much nicer to use. Outside windy day ? Sure fcaw is great. Maybe when you are really pushing it with a 110 mig the flux penetration is better. I have a Lincoln weld pak 110 that really works great. I'm going to try a
yes welder ds 205 out for heavier stuff that's not getting tigged. It gets really good reviews and will do DC Tig and stick as well. I'm. Hoping they will do the right thing and make a mig/plasma unit before I buy. They said it's been talked about. Seems like a good company and cheap as dirt.

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VaiFanatic · #42 02-06-2021, 10:07 PM

In my experience cutting and acid etching FCAW vs GMAW, I've had identical or better penetration with FCAW. For aesthetic reasons, and reduction of overall mess, I prefer TIG in 90% of all applications if I can do it. It's just a slower process, and not as portable.

I've been wanting to try out an ESAB Rebel, heard a lot of good things about their TIG-only machine, but still a little up there on the cost.

rwd4evr · #43 02-07-2021, 05:49 AM

Sure. Fcaw is like stick welding. It's always better penetrayion than mig per power level. But any issue you have with a bead and it's, clean all the crap off maybe grind it back, bla bla bla. Never gonna do thin sheet metal nice. I did my dual rear caliper handbrake setup with a 110v mig on probably 1/4" thick forged steel. Just set it up right and gouged it out for full penetration.

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fonzi · #44 02-07-2021, 08:11 AM

I think that’s not your average 110v MIG. I’ve heard others with the same talk about how nice of a welder the Lincoln 110 is. Or is it a Lincoln 100? Right? I don’t know.

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