Elliptical Bolt question... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

sjsfiji · #1 10-26-2002, 07:30 AM

Hi,

I replaced my stock shocks to Bilstein Sports, but the elliptical bolts were welded to the stock struts. Do I need these? If so, is it the bold I need or a washer... part #s?

I'm wondering since
- the hole the bolt goes through is round
- negative camber is too high (could have adjusted to max + camber during installation with the elliptical bold before getting a 4-wheel alignment.)

Thanks,

sjsfiji

gsxr · #2 10-26-2002, 01:21 PM

I'm not sure what you mean by the bolt welded - that's really odd. The only elliptical bolts should be on the front lower control arms, and on the rear tie rod arm.

About the negative camber: Mercedes specs state that up to negative 4 (yes, FOUR) degrees is OK in the rear. Up front you should be able to dial it down to negative 1 or so. You do want some negaitve camber if you corner hard. If you don't, then you want it closer to zero. The problem is the kits to correct this are VERY expensive.

Scroll to the end of this PDF for the data on the alignment specs:

http://www.meimann.com/docs/mercedes/AMG_wheel_install_02.pdf

Regards,

sjsfiji · #3 10-26-2002, 04:10 PM

hi,
--------------------
"I'm not sure what you mean by the bolt welded - that's really odd. The only elliptical bolts should be on the front lower control arms, and on the rear tie rod arm."
--------------------
On the shock there are 3 bolts, 2 @ bottom & 1 @ middle. My car had an elliptical washer welded to the shock by the last aligner (specialist) next to the bolt to adjust camber a bit via the middle bolt to accomodate the drop/lowering of the car. Did my car come with an elliptical bolt or washer stock from the factory? I'm not sure if the welded one was just added.....

thanks,

gsxr · #4 10-26-2002, 07:37 PM

Oh, wow, that's weird! I've never heard of that setup. It is definitely NOT stock from the factory, that's an add-on by someone else. It is also not necessary unless you have MAJOR alignement problems, like if the car was in a wreck or something. I know people who have their 124's *slammed* (3+ inch drop) and never had to resort to stuff like this. Remember, you want SOME negative camber! The bigger problem is in the rear, where lowering the car creates quite a bit of negative camber and wears the tires out faster. I just accept that as a side-effect of a lowered car. If you want stock alignment, put the stock springs back in and return the car to OE ride height, problem solved!

Regards,

Tobias MB · #5 10-26-2002, 07:50 PM

The front strut OE design is to have the knuckle and strut mount flat....the two lower bolts in the threaded holes and the single upper crossways in the hole with a washer on either side. I have seen competition versions with an extra washer on the bottom bolts to create more negative camber but the upper bolt is still stock as it knuckle pivots on this bolt. The front camber and caster adjustments are on the lower control arm as Dave mentions.

To correct the rear either takes adjustable arms or urethane bushings from Australia (K-Mac)and are not cheap.

Good luck...
Tobias MB
4 MBs

sjsfiji · #6 10-27-2002, 09:48 PM

Should I just remove the washer on the lower bolt to get more (+) camber?

thanks,

Tobias MB · #7 10-28-2002, 12:59 PM

You weren't specific where the washers were located! The knuckle should mount to the strut housing with washers ONLY under the head of the bolts, no where else. The cross bolt has a locking nut but be sure to put lock-tite under the two short ones on the bottom.
If you have washers between the housing and the knuckle, that is the reason for all the negative camber!

Good luck...
Tobias MB
4 MBs

sjsfiji · #8 10-28-2002, 01:31 PM

Hi,

There are 3 total bolts...

1.) 1 - longitudinal to the car (middle by knuckle - bolt w/ nut and 2 washers)
2.) 2 - perpendicular (lower - bolt w/ washer)

My question was... Can I remove the washers on (2.) to give it more (+) camber?

thanks,

Tobias MB · #9 10-28-2002, 01:49 PM

NO, by removing the washers under the head of the bolts will not chnage anything as the knuckle and housing will still be in the same mounting. By adding washers to bolts #2 will increase camber, not decrease it.
Tobias MB

sjsfiji · #10 10-28-2002, 07:10 PM

If I add washers* on both bottom bolts, what's the max number of washers* per bolt would be safe?

installation:

washer* + SHOCK + washer + bolt

thanks,

Tobias MB · #11 10-28-2002, 07:34 PM

By adding a washer on bolts #2 between the knuckle and the housing INCREASES your camber, not decreases. I thought you were trying to get less camber on the wheels for street use to get better tire mileage. By adding a washers does the opposite.
Tobias MB

sjsfiji · #12 10-28-2002, 07:45 PM

Thanks for your help. I will remove the wheel tonight and see if the bolts are above or below the wheel's centerline.

My camber right now is in the negative. I want to increase the camber... i.e. make more positive from current setting. I can understand why you say increase camber... i.e. more negative..., but there lies the confusion. Increase for me means make the setting (number) greater. thanks for your quick reply....