Mack,

For a recent W124 purchase, my list of mods that get done ASAP are:

1- Window tint, as dark as you can stand it ($250)
2- Hella Euro lights from P.U.M.A. ($400)
3- Sportline sway bars, front & rear ($225)
4- W202/203/208 wheels & tires ($500 used, with tires)
5- Late 90's soft leather steering wheel ($250+ with airbag)


After that, you need to figure out what you like best. Just get the normal Sportline kit unless you're into autox or something, as the next step up costs *double*. Leave the shocks for now, if it rides OK. If you put in springs, then do shocks at the same time, get Sportline, KONI, or Bilstein Sports to go with the Sportline springs. If you leave the springs stock (don't buy new OEM, just leave the old ones), you can get new Comfort or HD Bilsteins when you have a spare $500 floating around. After the tires wear out, read my post above about the W20x wheel/tire combo (and check out the photos of my car with them). Oh, I know of a white/blue 1987 300TD wagon for sale, well maintained, etc... email me if you're interested. BTW - where did you buy your new 87, what colors is it, and how much was it? I'm shopping for one since mine got wrecked 2 weeks ago.

Now there are a bunch of things to watch for on this car. If the vac pump is original, it needs replacing NOW. The engine temp should not go above 100C except in very brutal conditions, and should normally be 85-95C. If not, the radiator and/or fan clutch may be bad (very common). The two sound shields under the engine & tranny are often missing, the serp belt tensioner needs checking very often & replacement at ANY sign of "tilting", the cylinder heads are prone to cracking (flawed design in 1986/87 engines), etc, etc..

BTW - you may want to join the MBZ.org diesel email list, there are a number of us 1987 300D (124.133) owners over there. The server is acting up so I can't post the sign-up page, OR the "1987 300D Buyer's Guide" page with a list of things to check on these cars. Anyway, feel free to drop me an email if you have questions (rc51@cableone.net). Photos of my two 87's are here:

http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/


Regards,

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They SportLine front bushings are made of a harder rubber than the stock. You really "feel" the road now.

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG (w/sportline bushings)
1993 500E w/sportline struts

Here's that 1987 TD wagon for sale. The photos look NICE, and it sounds like it was well taken care of. I don't know the seller, no financial interest, etc etc... just passing along the info. It's white with blue interior and located in St. Louis. Reason for selling is that he just bought an SL, and now needs to move the TD out...! Must me nice, huh? I ran a CarFax on the TD and it came back clean:

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 06:21:46 -0500
> From: "Deneal Schilmeister (Portege)"
> Subject: RE: [124] Looking at a 1987 300TD
>
> Aaron... I have one for sale.
>
> See http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/1987_300TD/PhotoAlbum40.html
>
> All records and no bull*****. Great car. Contact me if you've any interest!
> Mine has a new radiator, new evaporator, new blower motor new heater
> servo-actuators new..... well, its been well cared for. High miles (273k)
> but definitely NOT a jalopy.
>
> - -- --
> Deneal Schilmeister
> St. Louis, Missouri USA

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GSXR, Thank you for the Wagon info, mentally it makes sense, but I just can't warm to it otherwise. I would actually love to go the "other way" and convert a 300CE or 190 to 603 power, or even to an upgraded 350SD engine. I once did a XJ6 S1 conversion to a TPI L98/700R4 combo, and I like the idea of building up a CE or 190 5spd, to up around 200 Diesel HP. (Needless to say, it's not going to happen..... "estimate the manhours and cost, then double, and add 50%" LOL)

I bought the 87 off eBay, from a Broker with Gamble Motors in Knoxville, I paid $3500, 220k miles, I think the regional auctions listed on CarFax scared some people off, VIN WDBEB33D3HA293722, as I just made reserve. It appears to have been a two owner car, the last two years in Tennesee, and before that Florida. NO RUST, the Interior is solid, but the sides of the seat and rear parcel shelf show some signs of mild sun fading, it is not so bad as to be unacceptable to me, the dash has no cracks, carpets great, no seat damage excepting one small tear under 3/4" in the passenger seat, and the armrest is tired. The exterior shows evidence of a respray, the only reason I suspected this at first, was due to the fact that it looked too good for the miles and model year, especially for a metallic paint, the clear coat has a few small areas that are suspect. I like the metallic, but I don't like the fact that it doesn't hold up as well over time, as the non-metallic that can be buffed out. IMHO (What color is the copper/titanium metallic called, it's is almost identical to my KTM Duke's paint?)

The suspension work mentioned in the previous post, was done at what I have heard is a reputable shop, The Benz Haus. Reading into the reciepts, it looks like the last owner took good care of the car. 3.5k oil changes and all other fluids, even brake fluid, were changed yearly, the coolant system was pressure checked yearly. The P.O. had the trans, fuel pump, (I assume this was the IP) oil pan, etc all R&R'd too fix oil leaks, only a small diff leak at present, all underbody sound shielding present and accounted for. The flex discs, pinon seals, cruise box, water pump, 1 half shaft, both ABS sensors, manifold flex tube, coolant tank, P/S hoses and box, etc, are all new in the last 24 months, and many minor items not worth mentioning here, are new as well. Last year the A/C was evacuated, and charged with a dye, and blows cold. (All the above at the Benz Haus.)

Not sure about the A/T, as it's my first one ever, man I hate'em, the upshifts seem a tad harsh. The ABS has died recently, no ABS light on start. Got one pwr headrest motor that runs, but doesn't move the headrest, I think I should check I/P timing and/or change the timing chain (unknow), change the vacum actuators for the climate control system, headlight clip is missing, pass seat rise switch is cracked, etc. So far these are the biggest items on my short list. Does the vacum pump have a casting number to identify it?

GSXR, your suggestions, are pretty similar to my thoughts, in Texas you better have the windows Tinted, I wish the original owner had tinted, as the interior would be a 9.5 instead of an 8.5 I expect the sway bars will be next, and I would love the rest, especially the leather interior parts, but for now I think I will do the tint, t-chain, climate actuators, switch to Mobil1 & Analysis, and keep an eye on the cyl head. Priorities suck, I am saving, to buy a house, for my 401k, and my upcoming moto vacation in Thailand.

I will get up some consise to the point questions soon, as I want to get the 300D, and 190D whipped into shape soon, and the 190 needs to be sold. I almost looked at another 1987 300d in town with 140k, for $2900, but I knew if I looked at it I would buy it. It was out of the paper just weeks before GSXR's misfortune struck.

Sorry for the long post guys, and thanks for the help and great resource, Mack

Mack,

Thanks for the VIN - I decoded it & found your paint is code 702, Smoke Silver, and you have Palomino MB Tex interior (code 174). This is a VERY common combination. I swear half the 87's imported were this combo! I don't like that color much, it's not smoke, it sure ain't silver, why call it "Smoke Silver"? Sheesh. It's gold/champagne to me. My sister has one in that color combo too, and my dad is about to buy one as well - same colors! Sounds like you got a pretty decent deal, btw! Nice find.

ABS lite is probably just the bulb out in the dash, if it doesn't light when you turn the key on. Try the ABS, it should work - rare failure on these cars, IMO. The headrests often move UP under power, but need help DOWN. If yours won't move up, yeah something hosed. Not a big deal. The tranny should shift positively, and firmly at heavy throttle, but not harsh. That's usually a sign of a vacuum leak somewhere - good luck tracking that down though. If the trans has not been serviced in the last 20kmi, do that ASAP... mine will shift kinda harsh past 20-25kmi, and ususally go back to "normal" with a fluid & filter change. Use Mobil-1 ATF and drain the converter too.

You check the timing chain stretch visually. If the stretch is 3 degrees or less, leave it alone. If it's 4 or more, you probably should replace it, that's the wear limit specified in the factory engine manual. Do that before messing with IP timing, as the timing will change if you replace the chain, and you'll need to do it all over again! If the chain is OK, then check & adjust the IP timing (buy the IP lock pin tool for ~$30), set to advanced side of spec - 14 ATDC.

There is no casting number for the vac pump. Look at the front cover. If there are 4 Torx head screws in it, like you see in the photo at this URL, it's the new style. If there are NO screws, replace it ASAP:
http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/head_gasket/vac_pump1.jpg

Replacing all the climate control pods ain't fun, but sure makes the ACC work better! Here's photos of my dash R&R, and there's a thread on this forum where I posted all the details (let me know if you can't locate it in a search) :

http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/W124_dash/



Best regards,

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gsxr, thanks for the info, so I got a mutt! I will be getting a vacum pump asap, might give your Atlanta connection a try. I changed over to Mobil 1 red cap today, and I changed the standpipe o-rings out, they looked more like jet engine carbon seals then rubber o-rings, they just crumbled when I attempted to remove them. I saved some of the P.O's oil for analysis, I will check with Snyder, (Phone #, www???) or..... a fellow Texas VFR rider, "works at oil analysis". He has been establishing a baseline on VFR800 EFI bikes, as there seems to be a possible issue with fuel dilution, maybe he will be willing to do the Benz oil as well.

My list is getting longer, I wanted to check the turbo/alda line for free flow, and after having 3 short sections of vacum line snap off at the ends.... I need to get these replaced. Not to mention it looks like I have some updated crap installed, y's and T's, etc, maybe cruise surge stuff, not sure, but it does not look OEM, though it's not causing any problems either. No visible chaffing, but all the injector line supports/clips are KIA, or AWOL. I found the PN's you posted for these, and I will do the trans and diff fluids next week.

Sadly I have not one dash to pull, but two, I am assuming that the 190's vacum pods are shot too, (1984/265k miles) defog default may work in the cool German climate, but not in Texas! I will pull some vacum on the "test port" and see what's inop. O' yeah, can't forget, I need to read my manual and get up to speed on the T-Chain check as well..............grumble.

Back to regularly scheduled programming, Sportline questions next up.

Sportline vs. Limo/500E sway bars, posted at:

Are sway bars really worth it.

Link fixed: Last edited by Mack on 06-28-2003 at 07:18 PM

Mack, that link above is bad... can you fix it? BTW, I just intalled the Limo bar on my car today (replacing my standard Sportline). Wow - that thing is FLAT now!

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Don't need the link anymore you just answered my question!!

Seems like there are plenty of experienced folks in this discussion. I bought Sportline Swaybars front and rear with bushings from Rusty. Installed the front one, pretty easy, on a 1993 300E, and noticed an improvement. The rear i have not done, i fear doing it myself, and am leary of the cost associated with it. ( $250 labor ) My question is, if i went to just the front limo bar, and did not do the rear, would the improvement be better than what i have now? Or should I just wait and add the sportline rear, hoping it will help overall in conjunction with the already installed front?

Thanks guys, always appreciate the info.

FQ

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FAQ

W124
Sportline Swaybars
Bilstein HD Struts
16" E420 wheels

I would not put a limo front with standard rear. You would get lots of understeer and the rear would "lift", not staying flat like it should. Just install the rear bar, it's not nearly as hard as you think. Plan on several hours. You'll need to support the car at the two rear jack points and have a separate jack to put under the diff, to lower & raise the subframe. I have two floor jacks & a bottle jack, but you can do it (carefully) with solid jack stands as well plus one other jack. Here's the installation instructions with some edits by me (I've done this three times now) :

http://www.meimann.com/docs/mercedes/Rear_sway_bar_install.pdf

BTW, I have a Limo front with Sportline rear, and plan to install the 500E rear soon to balance the car out!


HTH,

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Thanks gsxr.
That is what I figured.
I need to just block out a day and go for it.

How long did it take you the first time? I also will have a buddy giving me a hand in tackling this.

I should feel a more balanced feel when the rear is installed, I hope!!

FQ

__________________
FAQ

W124
Sportline Swaybars
Bilstein HD Struts
16" E420 wheels

Frank, my first time it took me about 4 hours. Had I known the ABS sensor could stay connected it would have been a little faster (watch the cable closely though, don't strain it!). Also you have to get mean with the driveshaft to pry it out of the flex disc, it has to force forward (you'll see what I mean). Don't lower the subframe more than necessary, probably 4-5 inches? Just enough to wiggle the bar in & out. My second time was under 2 hours, and third time under 1 hour. I hope to do it again in under 1 hour my fourth time (for the 500E rear bar).

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gsxr,

You posted previously about replacing wheels with a set off later models:

"Tip on wheels: Get late model W202/203/208 (C- or CLK-class) 16-inch wheels. They are 16x7.0 ET37 and fit perfect, and the 205/55/16 tire size is perfect with no speedometer error! I have two sets and they're fantastic."

Do you know what the offset of the stock '86 300E wheel is? Do I need to use only that offset if I change to the 16X7.0 ET37 wheels? (btw, what does the ET37 refer to?) Are the bolt hole patterns the same on all years of the models you mentioned?

Thanks

Gary

The holes & spacing are the same. The offset is the ET number. ET37 means the wheel's hub face is offset 37mm from the centerline of the wheel. This will vary with each wheel width. For example, a 7.0 may be ET42, but a 7.5 might be 37, etc. A range of ET's will work for a given wheel width. The lower the number the more the wheel sticks out. The higher the number, the more it's pulled in.

It's more critical on wide wheels. For example, I have 17x8.0 ET38 wheels. There is almost zero clearance on the inside. That means the same 8.0 wheel in ET40 might rub the strut tube. Conversely, a lower number like ET35 would stick the wheel farther out and cause more serious rubbing problems with the fenders.

Ahmost all the 202/203/208/210 wheels, with the proper tire size, will bolt on with no problems though (assuming they are 16 or 17 diameter, and between 7.0 to 8.0 width).

HTH,

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