I would not put a limo front with standard rear. You would get lots of understeer and the rear would "lift", not staying flat like it should. Just install the rear bar, it's not nearly as hard as you think. Plan on several hours. You'll need to support the car at the two rear jack points and have a separate jack to put under the diff, to lower & raise the subframe. I have two floor jacks & a bottle jack, but you can do it (carefully) with solid jack stands as well plus one other jack. Here's the installation instructions with some edits by me (I've done this three times now) :

http://www.meimann.com/docs/mercedes/Rear_sway_bar_install.pdf

BTW, I have a Limo front with Sportline rear, and plan to install the 500E rear soon to balance the car out!


HTH,

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Thanks gsxr.
That is what I figured.
I need to just block out a day and go for it.

How long did it take you the first time? I also will have a buddy giving me a hand in tackling this.

I should feel a more balanced feel when the rear is installed, I hope!!

FQ

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FAQ

W124
Sportline Swaybars
Bilstein HD Struts
16" E420 wheels

Frank, my first time it took me about 4 hours. Had I known the ABS sensor could stay connected it would have been a little faster (watch the cable closely though, don't strain it!). Also you have to get mean with the driveshaft to pry it out of the flex disc, it has to force forward (you'll see what I mean). Don't lower the subframe more than necessary, probably 4-5 inches? Just enough to wiggle the bar in & out. My second time was under 2 hours, and third time under 1 hour. I hope to do it again in under 1 hour my fourth time (for the 500E rear bar).

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gsxr,

You posted previously about replacing wheels with a set off later models:

"Tip on wheels: Get late model W202/203/208 (C- or CLK-class) 16-inch wheels. They are 16x7.0 ET37 and fit perfect, and the 205/55/16 tire size is perfect with no speedometer error! I have two sets and they're fantastic."

Do you know what the offset of the stock '86 300E wheel is? Do I need to use only that offset if I change to the 16X7.0 ET37 wheels? (btw, what does the ET37 refer to?) Are the bolt hole patterns the same on all years of the models you mentioned?

Thanks

Gary

The holes & spacing are the same. The offset is the ET number. ET37 means the wheel's hub face is offset 37mm from the centerline of the wheel. This will vary with each wheel width. For example, a 7.0 may be ET42, but a 7.5 might be 37, etc. A range of ET's will work for a given wheel width. The lower the number the more the wheel sticks out. The higher the number, the more it's pulled in.

It's more critical on wide wheels. For example, I have 17x8.0 ET38 wheels. There is almost zero clearance on the inside. That means the same 8.0 wheel in ET40 might rub the strut tube. Conversely, a lower number like ET35 would stick the wheel farther out and cause more serious rubbing problems with the fenders.

Ahmost all the 202/203/208/210 wheels, with the proper tire size, will bolt on with no problems though (assuming they are 16 or 17 diameter, and between 7.0 to 8.0 width).

HTH,

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Gary,

How did you install the 129 351 14 42 subframe bushings?. I ended up with both these and the stock 124 350 86 08. Here is a picure of the stock part next to the 129 351 14 42. The 129s are still in the bag in case this is the wrong part. Notice the 129.... is about a 1/4 inch larger all around than stock (about 1/2" larger diameter). Is there a trick to it, is there a mod required, or is this just the wrong part?

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There are four subframe bushings... two smaller ones in front of the tires, two larger ones behind. You have one of each in the photo. I used a special Klann installation tool to install mine. Photos of before & after are here:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_subframe/

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GSXR seems to have the right answer. Check out the photos in his link.

A question for GSXR - I notice that you have braided SS brakes lines. Whose are they and is there any problems mounting them or using the stock hose guides?

Gary

Gary, about the braided brake lines:

1) I got mine from Bekkers, but if I were to buy another set I would buy from StopTech... they are enclosed in a clear vinyl tube for extra protection. These were not available when I bought mine about 4 years ago.

2) IIRC, the rear lines bolted up with no mods. In the front, the S/S line nut was not large enough to seat in the bracket welded to the frame, so I had to add a washer.

3) The difference in braking feel is quite small... don't expect a huge change. I felt more of a difference in pedal feel just switching to Porterfield R4-S pads.

4) If you brake lines are more than 10-15 years old, they should be replaced on principle... rubber wears out with age, not miles. New rubber lines are approx $60/set (I think), the S/S lines are a little over $100 (I think)... haven't checked prices lately.