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  #1  
Old 04-24-2005, 12:59 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 97
repalcing pillar post seal, need help

Can't see how to remove the trim piece on the front of the pillar post so I can R&R the seal. The CD refers to 4 screws accessed by wedging the rubber out of the way. Just don't see it. The part the window rests against is obvious. Any help appreciated.

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  #2  
Old 04-24-2005, 01:51 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: KY USA
Posts: 2,238
They really are there - you have to peel back the rubber (towards the center of the windshield) and you will see them. Replacing this item is a real b#$@. Look at your new parts - place the correct-handed part alongside the old installed part - and you will see how to do it. Be careful!
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  #3  
Old 04-25-2005, 02:06 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 97
Thanks to Strife and Rich for the replies. This job can be a &^%$*&$#@ if doing it for the first time. Tiny screws, hidden behind rubber flaps in places too small for your fingers. First side took over 3 hours, mostly finding the screws and then fumbling getting them back in. Second side took about 40 minutes. Hope this helps someone else save time. First, on the removal, wedge out the part of the seal next to the window. You just need to get a piece of it and then pull the rest out. Then take a razor knife and slit the rubber flap from the top of the pillar to the bottom. Remove the flap, and the screws are exposed. Remove them and the trim piece comes off along with the remainder of the seal under it. After cleaning everything up, I put a piece of tape adjacent to each screw hole and then marked the exact location of the hole with a pencil line on the tape. Now you know exactly where the screw holes are when you reinstall. Start installation with the part of the seal next to the side window by wedging it into the groves. I used a screwdriver. Position the seal at the top and work down a couple of inches, then do the same at the bottom and work toward the middle. Reason for this is the seal has a tendency to lenghten if you just work fron one side. This part of the seal must be exact at the top and the bottom because of a plastic retainer at the bottom and the need to be precise when you start the seal down the front side under the trim piece. At this point I found it hard to keep the seal properly positioned on the trim. I ended up using small rubber bands to hold the seal on the trim piece. Working from the top to the bottom, the remaining screws must be reattached keeping the seal positioned on the trim piece. Problem here is to are putting tiny screws into a place your fingers don't fit all the while holding back the flap that they fit under. I used Super Glue to hold each screw onto the driver, an ice pick to locate each hole and to hold back the flap and then installed the screws. The key to the whole thing is the Super Glue and knowing exactly where the holes are. (reason for the tape and pencil mark. After the first side, I swore to never do another. After the second side, I don't consider it a hard job at all.
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  #4  
Old 04-28-2005, 10:22 AM
'81 380SL
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: foot hills east of Redding CA
Posts: 20
Nicely done .. wish you had published a bit sooner!!!
Recently had the pain of doing this myself ...
first one was hours with my wifes help ...
second side 40 minutes or so single handed.

My trusted master mech said ... only Merc parts here as this is one of those jobs you only want to do once. Over $300 !!!! and a very tight fit in the groove.

Only diff I had was it wouldn't wedge into the groove no matter what I did.
By soaping with liquid dish soap it slid on starting at the top and working down.
with the soap it can be worked into position to line up the holes.
Super glue a great idea ... I lost several screws into the inner realms never to be seen again.

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