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  #1  
Old 01-15-2007, 08:16 PM
450slcguy's Avatar
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Exclamation 450slc Bad Axle shaft symtoms / replacement

I've been noticing a clank in the left rear on acceleration from stop. Today I took the wheel off and moved the axle shaft back and forth, it seemed to move about an inch back and forth quite easily. Is this normal? I believe it's suppose to compress to some degree but I'm not sure if this is correct. I checked the bolt and spacer that anchor the shaft to the inside of the hub and they were tight. I'm thinking that axle might need replacing. Looking at my repair cd, to remove the shaft they used a tool to push the splined end out of the wheel hub. Also used to pull it back into the hub. Do I need this tool or can I push it out manually? Could use some advice from anyone who has replace the axle shafts before.

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Last edited by 450slcguy; 01-15-2007 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:35 PM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
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When you say your moving it back and forth, I assume you mean you are rotating it back abd fourth and the edge of the rotor is rotating back and fourth about 1 inch at the circumferance. Motion this way is normal, I cant say for sure if an inch is too much but some is supposed to be there. The play you should be observing in this area should only be the sum of all gear backlash withing the differential and transmission up to the parking pawl.

What you should not see is any relative motion (beyond about 0.010") between the rotor hub and the flange where the inboard CV joint attaches at the differential. All these parts should essentially rotate as one unit.

As far as a tool to pull the hubs, you will need at least a standard hub puller of some kind, You will also need something to pull it back in. I'm not sure how difficult it is to cobbel something up for this application but I'm sure you can do something without purchasing the specified MB tool. You will also need a special socket to pull the hub retaining nut.

John Roncallo
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  #3  
Old 01-16-2007, 12:04 AM
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undo the 6 bolts holding the axle to the diff,undo the nut form thr hub and pull it out/knock it out,no special tools needed,I just replaced mine.Taking the mufler apart was the biggest deal.3 hours top in a shop...
And she screems again...tooo much tork I quess
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roncallo View Post
What you should not see is any relative motion (beyond about 0.010") between the rotor hub and the flange where the inboard CV joint attaches at the differential. All these parts should essentially rotate as one unit.
John Roncallo
The movement I'm experiencing is from the outboard CV joint to to the inboard joint to the differential, not radially. From what I gather from the CD, I don't have to remove the hub, just push the splined shaft out of the bore.
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:05 PM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 450slcguy View Post
The movement I'm experiencing is from the outboard CV joint to to the inboard joint to the differential, not radially. From what I gather from the CD, I don't have to remove the hub, just push the splined shaft out of the bore.
Sorry I was thinking of a different car. You dont have to remove the hub. But you may want to use a hub puller to drive the shaft out if it is stuck. Hitting to hard may brinnel the bearings.

John Roncallo
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  #6  
Old 01-16-2007, 11:12 PM
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I believe on that year car you have to remove the differential cover and then remove the c clip that holds the axle shaft on to the differential. At least that's what I had to do on my '79 450SL. (In addition to all the steps mentioned above)

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