560SL.. rough idle/shaking,then stalls...

[meltedpanda]

retrace your work , if it was starting and now it isn't gotta be something you missed or did not connect or knocked loose or .... dont ask me how I know

[ioang26]

OK.This is what happened.I removed the leaking EHA (engine would start with it) and then replaced it with another one and copied exactly the adjustment screw number of turns.Then I did not try to start it until next morning and forgot to connect the wiring to the EHA,and no start. Then I connected it and again no firing.
I pulled one plug and it is black and wet.Could that be the problem? Should I buy new plugs or clean those ?

[KCM]

I'm thinking it has something to do with the adjustment you did. I did not think an adjustment was needed. When I replaced mine, I simply installed the new one with no adjustments and it worked fine. Why not put the old EHA back on and see if it will start again?

Took a look at the wiring diagram for the tach. Appears one fuse supplies power to the tach and the instrument panel, including some guages. I would say a fuse proble, but if everything else works, then it either has to be the tach itself, no signal from teh EZL, or a disconnected or cut wire from the tach to the EZL. First I would check to make sure the tach is actually connected behind the cluster, then look for any cut wires (probably not likely). If nothing shows up, I'd bet it is the tach rather than the EZL. I suppose there is someway to check for an EZL signal at the diagnostic plug (which is in line between the tach and EZL), but I don't know what tool you would need.

[meltedpanda]

Left = leaner, Right = richer.
And tiny adjustments mean big changes , you really cant go by the old one as compared to new

[ioang26]

I just put the old EHA back and did 6 1/2 turns CCW from the very right(end) and the car would try to start some after a long cranking but nothing again.
Should I try the 5 3/4 turns or what would be the default/factory settings?
Any suggestions? Please...

[meltedpanda]

since it sounds like you are dumping too much fuel lean it out most or all of the way - ccw looking at it . It should not start, then slowly 1/4 to 1/2 turn to rich trying it each time.

[ioang26]

How to check if the EHA valve is still good?
Also, received the CIS fuel pressure test kit today but I am not sure how to connect it in order to measure the current pressures.There are not very clear instructions inlcuded.

[meltedpanda]

not sure they can be tested without some specialized gizmo, but not sure.

I have never set up the pressure guages on a Kjet , but I am sure someone here has, you may consider starting a new thread with that specific question

[ioang26]

Today I received another EHA (replacement of the leaking one).
Installed it and nothing.Then unplugged the EHA and the car started and run roughly for a few minutes until warm and then I plugged back the EHA .Again run less than a minute and all of a sudden like someone cut the spark and it shut off.
What is going on?Also, I have notice that when replacing the EHA there is not much pressure as it used to be .Why is that ? Is the FD leaking or something again?
Any help and advise is greatly appreciated .

[meltedpanda]

ok i reread your posts, you indicate that the fuel pump was replaced. Is it OEM- these are specific high pressure high volume roller vane pumps. What about the fuel accumulator - was that replaced, messed with?
You really need to test fuel pressures. That is the starting point on these rather complicated KE systems

[ioang26]

The fuel pump (one of two) has been replaced with a aftermarket one and they both work.
I did test the fuel pressure and everything is in specs - lower chamber,control pressure and rest system pressure.The only problem still stays- the rest pressure goes down slowly after 30 min to 0 bar.
I tested the fuel accumulator by clamping the hose and it is working.Tested the fuel pressure regulator by unscrewing the return hose and there is no leak.
The only thing makes sense to leak the pressure out is fro the FD plunger (bottom side of the unit).What do you think?
Also, measure the signal to the tachometer and there is voltage coming which changes when accelerating which clearly means the tacho itself is no good.

[ioang26]

And also,it still does the same thing- starts,runs for about 30-40 sec and then all of a sudden shuts like you switch off the ignition.When started right back will start and shuts rightaway.

[meltedpanda]

tough one for sure
new pumps , but do they meet the specs needed for this fuel system , do they have a check valve, are the lines connected correctly at the accumulator ( we have had some on here that messed up the plumbing)
injectors come to mind also , leaking, especially the cold start injector. If the rest pressure is going down you are loosing fuel somewhere or it is returning to tank
rest pressures are a start , we need to somehow get run pressures
I guess leak down could occur at FD

some more reading

K-Jet.org | K-Jet Debugging Guide
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/fuel_injection/BoschMechanicalFuelInjection.pdf

[ioang26]

meltedpanda,
I found the culprit for the rest pressure drop.
I swapped back the old FD and guess the pressure stays in specs but now I can not start the engine again.Should I richen up the EHA a little and then try or try to mess with the air screw(on top of air filter).I have a Duty cycle meter.Do you know how it is done?
Checked also the idle speed control valve and it checks out.
Thanks!

[ioang26]

Forgot to add - it will still do the same thing- starts right up and then within 2 sec dies even if I try to rev it.
What do you think will be next - fuel injectors leaking at the "O" ring seal?