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  #61  
Old 10-26-2011, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
I have broken a bead before driving up a plank of wood with a heavier vehicle. I don't know if Kerry was pulling my leg with the HF tire irons as a bead breaker. I want to see a video of him doing it. Wacking it with a sledge is asking to hurt yourself I think. That steel belt on the bead that I cut through with the Sawzall is a bit over 1/4" diameter! It's a tough S.O.B.
Not kidding. I recently broke the bead on a 16" truck tire with those irons after unsuccessfully attempting to break it with a jack.

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  #62  
Old 10-26-2011, 11:28 PM
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I don't know about the vac pump idea, I have never heard of anyone trying it. You could be on to something. My only concern would be if only one bead came off you would still have to bust the other off.
You could just drive it up here to Mi. and hit a few of our world famous pot holes,they have been known to bust a few tires and rims.
A good friend of mine does tires for a living. He has a sledge hammer he calls a duck bill and he is very good with it. I tried it and smashed the rim more than the bead.
Another idea, put it on the rear of your car and pour a little bleach on the ground around the tire. then just brake tourq it a little and burn it off (no don't do that)
I have some of the TS tire tongs, I have never tried to use them to brake a bead. I could picture a trip to the ER with my hand wrapped in a dirty shop rag.
If you do use a vacuum pump ,I would like to see a video of it!
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  #63  
Old 10-27-2011, 07:49 PM
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A duck billed sledge hammer is what I have used to break the bead on truck tires that are too big for my tire machine. Don't miss. Tires shops that do big tires use these also. Then the tire iron get it off the rim.
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  #64  
Old 10-30-2011, 06:44 PM
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I tried out the vac pump. This is what it did to the tire, but it did not break the bead. I tried hammering on the bead while it was sucked in but that didn't help either.

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  #65  
Old 10-30-2011, 06:49 PM
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I then put the tire partially under the car's rocker panel so I could put 2 tire irons on the bead without flipping the tire but that didn't break the bead either. With my knee hold down the 2 tire irons, I placed a hmmer's handle against the bead and beat on the other end with a rubber mallet and that finally broke the bead. I don't know if the vacuum helped earlier. Once the bead was broken, I wa able to hammer on the tire iron with a rubber mallet to get one bead off the rim.

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  #66  
Old 10-30-2011, 06:50 PM
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Getting the other bead off was done the same way, hammering on the tire iron with a mallet.

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Last edited by funola; 10-30-2011 at 07:09 PM.
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  #67  
Old 10-30-2011, 06:56 PM
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Tire finally off after probably 1/2 hour or more with a lot of energy expended. It's back breaking work. I know I will never do this again. It is simply not worth it for me.

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  #68  
Old 10-30-2011, 07:00 PM
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I have more bent rims and uneven wear tires to dispose of so I tried the sawzall on it again.

Puncture the sidewall with a knife and shove the sawzall in and 30 seconds later bead is cut through.

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  #69  
Old 10-30-2011, 07:02 PM
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Just step on it lightly and the bead comes off. No sweat and back breaking work like the tire irons.

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  #70  
Old 10-30-2011, 07:07 PM
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Cutting the tread (thickest part of the tire) with the sawzall took the longest. As you cut (from the sidewall) towards the middle of the tire, it gets more and more floppy and progress gets slowere and slower. The trick is not to continue but start the cut again from the other sidewall towards the center of the tread. Tire is off in under 3 minutes.

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  #71  
Old 10-30-2011, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Not kidding. I recently broke the bead on a 16" truck tire with those irons after unsuccessfully attempting to break it with a jack.
Did that truck tire have a tube or tubeless? Was it steel belted?
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  #72  
Old 10-30-2011, 07:17 PM
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Did that truck tire have a tube or tubeless? Was it steel belted?
Steel belted, tubeless, 16". Some beads are a *****, even with a pneumatic device.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #73  
Old 10-30-2011, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
Tire finally off after probably 1/2 hour or more with a lot of energy expended. It's back breaking work. I know I will never do this again. It is simply not worth it for me.
If that is a steelie it is probably $3, an alloy maybe $4.
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  #74  
Old 10-30-2011, 08:03 PM
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If that is a steelie it is probably $3, an alloy maybe $4.
It's a steeley, probably worth less than $3. I scrapped a front suspension Macperson strut rotor/ brake assembly which was around 100 lbs and got $10 for it.

I did it for the experience, not the money. My town dump will not accept tires with rims and then, only 4 rimless tires per person per year. Tire shops charges $2 per tire disposal fee. If it's on a rim, they charge you $5 to de-rim so it adds up.

The first alloy I de-rimmed I got $12 from the scrap yard.
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  #75  
Old 10-30-2011, 09:17 PM
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It's a steeley, probably worth less than $3. I scrapped a front suspension Macperson strut rotor/ brake assembly which was around 100 lbs and got $10 for it.

I did it for the experience, not the money. My town dump will not accept tires with rims and then, only 4 rimless tires per person per year. Tire shops charges $2 per tire disposal fee. If it's on a rim, they charge you $5 to de-rim so it adds up.

The first alloy I de-rimmed I got $12 from the scrap yard.
Thats about right I multiplied wrong.

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