Fantastic information funola!

I especially like this picture



Whacky racers or what!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Yeah pretty neat looking tire heh?, shriveled up like a prune. With the tread pulling in towards the center, the force is all wrong for the purpose of breaking the bead. When the vac pump was turned on, the sidewalls collapse first (so the tire becomes flatter), then the tread collapse towards the center. Maybe if I stand on the tire and put weight on the bead before turning on the vac pump, that would add enough downward force to break the bead before the tread collapse? I am curious enough to give that a try.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Sorry Funola, I cant resist...

Typically when you go to the tire shop for what ever service...you might have to pay for "mount or dismount". I have never heard of a "De-Rimming" service. That is like describing the removal of an engine as "Removing the carrying case from around the power unit".

If this was intended as tongue in cheek....it worked.

Best of luck "dismounting" your old tires.

Yes, you can just take a saw zall and cut the tire from bead to bead to remove. I prefer just finding access to a tire machine.

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83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

We usually use the Bobcat. Use the front edge of the bucket blade to just mash down against the tire for all it's worth and when you get tired of that, the machine's usually heavy enough to just drive over the thing and knock it off. Also driven up on them with the front tire of the pickup and gotten them off that way. Done this on a lot of tires smaller than full-size car tires (various pieces of farm equipment, ATVs, etc) but I expect it'd work on car tires too. Don't know for sure.

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~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

Be-head= cut off the head
Be-rim don't sound right , de-capitate also= cut off the head. de-rim sounds better and is the way I cut off the tire to scrap the rim and tire without having to load it in the car, drive to a tire shop to drop them off, go back later to pick it up and pay them.

The time it takes me to drive to the closest tire shop I can de-rim 8 wheels. You are welcome to find access to a tire machine. For me, it is much less work and much faster with a Sawzall.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Resurrecting this thread since I had to break the bead on a 14" trailer tire. Tire had been on the rim for at least 10 yrs I think. I used the HF tire irons. Here are a couple of tricks. If you have some big C-clamps, put them around the tire and tighten them to pull the tire downwards from the rim once you start loosening the bead. This bead was VERY tight. Use the compound curved end of the iron with the final curve pointing up to start the process. Move around the rim and get it slightly loosed. Maybe 1/8th inch or so. Once it is down slightly two other techniques can be used. Flip the iron over with the final curve pointing down. Force it under the rim. Put a second iron with the curve up directly on top of it and pry down. Now you have downward pressure right at the rim from the bottom iron and a lot of leverage from the top lever. Once you get it down 1/4" or so use one iron with the final curve up to pry down on the tire and then use a second iron next to it with the curve down to put pressure directly at the point where the bead hits the rim. Took me about half and hour or so to figure this out and get it off.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Bead Breaker

For the money it would save a lot of work. Getting the tire off with a couple of tire irons is pretty straightforward. Cheers Dan

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It's always something simple
91 300D 603.960 (from japan) 194K
92 Toyota Diesel Landcruiser HDJ81-t 116K
02 Golf TDI new head courtesy of PO
87 300D
97 BMW 525 TDS Wagon 5spd
bunch of Onan and other diesel generators

You need one of these
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1984-11-01/A-Do-It-Yourself-Shop-Made-Tire-Changer.aspx

Harbor Freight manual tire changer Part 1 - YouTube

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=tire+machine&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=V0r&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1280&bih=830&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=9616376661357498738&sa=X&ei=5vJKT9vcDIfvggfNueWdDg&ved=0CIsBEPMCMAA

http://www.tractorsupply.com/vehicle-tire-repair/larin-manual-tire-changer-1000142?zoneMarketInfo=2-19&reqUrl=%2Fvehicle-tire-repair%2Flarin-manual-tire-changer-1000142&langId=-1&storeId=10551&storeCity=city%2C+state&catalogId=10001&storeZip=48030&ddkey=http:LocationBasedPrici ngCmd

But then I'v had a few beers and I'm bored to death.

I have a home made version of it.
The part that contacts the bead looks way too long for tight beads. Mine has about 4" of contact & the edge is curved so that it initially presses in one spot.
For our scrapers, we have a hydraulic bead breaker, it would kill a car rim !!! You leave the wheel on so you can put a bit of force on it. Once the bead is broken & the split rim removed, the tire falls off. Re-sealing/pumping up can be a pain, sometimes its easiest to use a cartridge of silicone to fill the gaps so you can get some initial pressure in the tire.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

I'm curious, have you ever had a split rim blow apart during inflation? I've heard some horror stories. I'm told some of the older truck tire shops have circular imprints in the ceiling from the locking ring blowing off old split rims.

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1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol
http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png

Its not unusual for a truck tire to run at 120# . If the rim is not together properly, they can go bang.
The scraper tires run about 30# . Never had one come to pieces. As they are so big, they pump up very slow. If one started to bead the wrong way you would have plenty of warning. I cant see how one could come to pieces. They are not the same as a truck split rim. Part of the arrangement is a piece like a big cir-clip. If it is not seated right air will not stay in.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving