I wanted to start a seperate thread for this since the last one on rear shocks has gotten a bit unwieldy. I want to settle a debate once and for all for those similar to me (i.e., with early production 1999 ML 430s). A lot of people have touted how wonderful the cheaper shocks (163-320-23-13) they get on line are (less than $100 each) and that they replace what they have, even if it calls for a different one.

For the early 1999 ml 430s, the rear shock called for (and the ones I pulled out of mine this weekend) is 163-320-24-13 (aka L4000-159265). YOU NEED TO USE THIS SHOCK. Many have said that the 163-320-23-13 is nearly identical, which is true. However, the tiny difference between the two is what makes it not fit.

The stud on the bottom of the shock is slightly shorter on the ...23-13, and more importantly, has fewer threads and the seating bevel is cut in a differnt part of the shaft. When you try to put it in, everything fits fine EXCEPT the stud does not go al the way through the A arm, and it seats about 3/4 of an inch above the A arm. They do not work. While you could try and bore out the hole in the control arm, not only does that not look like it will work, you are asking to have that break shortly down the road.

While it may be tempting to use the ...23-13s instead of the ...24-13s (less than $100 ea vs. $250 ea) you are wasiting your time and some money (return shipping and restocking costs). If you have an early 99 ml 430 which calls for the ...24-13s, you have to pony up the cash.

Did you try PG Auto? They claimed $100 per shock as overstocked OEM's. 1-888-236-9727, ask for Pat.

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Steve32

DCF

I was surprised to read about how people are trying to get around the OEM cost for new shock by using a different application shock. JUST CRAZY! Drilling out a lower A-arm...THAT'S JUST CRAZY TALK. This isn't a Ford F150 - it's a Mercedes.

I've just replaced my 4 shocks (2000 ML320 with 55k miles) with Bilstein shocks. As always - with Bilstein the job is easy to do and the results are simply kick-butt!!!

Just goto Bilstein website, identify p/n's needed and shop online (they provide list of distributors) and buy them - the correct ones for your application that is... Once you get them - toss the Bilstein bumpers, protective covers and washers and put on the Bilstein (in same order as you took off old shock) the OEM items as they are much better quality.

Bilstein has advise the shocks (only one p/n for the front and one for the rear) are 20% stiffer than stock - and believe me they are NICE!

Once you replace the shocks with the Bilsteins - you will wonder what took you so damn long to do it in the first place. Will drive like a Mercedes. Oh and for all the ML320 owners out there - dump those dumb 16" rims with doughnut tires (bounce like heck) and get your hands on the 17" ML430 or 18" ML55 rims and you will realize the beginning of the true potential of fun driving in an SUV. Now I'm squeeking around corners again like in my GTI...

Oh yea - the Bilsteins have Lifetime warrantee. Needed this once in all the sets I've installed from Bilstein and replacement by Bilstein is a breeze.

DCF.....

You are certainly within your rights to state your opinion; but I beg to differ


Some might feel uncomfortable using a dremel tool to slightly enlarge the lower mounting hole in order for the 23-13 shock to fit.This was a very minor modification to a suspension component that is approximately one inch thick and is extremely rugged. Once the shocks were installed I went by a local TiresPlus and had all the mounting points, front and rear, torqued to the proper specifications. The nut on the bottom of this shock stud calls for 135nm and, believe me, that baby ain't going nowhere !


Total cost for Bilsteins in front and Sachs coil/shocks in rear was $342.00.I was absolutely amazed at the diffence in the ride after the change. Although the original shocks (with 225,000 miles on them ) never leaked and seemed to be performing properly, the new shocks and springs made a huge difference. If you don't mind getting your hands dirty and want to save a cool $1000.00, I would recommend this installation on a high-mileage early 163.

Autobahner,

the Sachs Super Gas also appear to have a lifetime waranty:

"Sachs Super Gas Shock Absorbers

Sachs Shock Absorbers Limited Warranty

Who is covered:
You are eligible for the benefits of this warranty if you are the original purchaser of the Sachs Super Gas Shock Absorber product and still own the vehicle on which the Sachs Super Gas Shock Absorbers were installed.

What is covered and for how long:
ZF Trading North America, LLC warrants each new Sachs Super Gas Shock Absorber against wear-out or failures due to defects in materials and workmanship for as long as you own your passenger car or light truck if the vehicle has been operated under normal conditions."
# # # cited from the website of Sachs North America

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W163.154, M112.942, 722.662, ZF.970.402

Wolfgang, does that mean the shocks are covered for life even if they are replaced by dealers? My rear shocks were replaced under warranty at around 35K. Anyway, I'd rather not to buy Sachs shocks. No matter whatever the "design", the "technology" they tout, they are pretty bad shocks, leaking and needing replacement at around 30K-50K miles.

That's a good question for the Sachs Technical Hotline in Ohio:

"Sachs Technical Hotline
The Sachs North America technical hotline features competent specialists who can provide guidance for your installation questions.

Phone: 1-440-871-4890
Toll Free: 1-800-321-0784
Fax: 1-440-871-6904"

PS. I have another car, a W126.037 from 1981 with original Sachs shocks, now about 24 years old. No leaks, work fine. I call that my "Sachs magic carpet ride". with four wheel level control.

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W163.154, M112.942, 722.662, ZF.970.402

Thanks for the info, that's good to know!