After 200k miles i decided to change out the motor and tranny mounts. I could feel the engine vibration more and more. Engine mounts have some magic electrical solenoid that changes the stiffness at idle.

The following is a step by step. I know there maybe a desire to see if the passenger side motor mount can be removed without removing the axle shaft or cat on exhaust. It can not be done. Both need to come out. You might be able to get the motor mount out as i did without removing the axle shaft, but the new one will not go in. I took an hour trying every possible way. It can't be done.

Good luck

1. Jack car and remove front passenger tire
2. Remove lower encapsulation panels, front and tranny
3. Remove hub dust cap
4. Remove wheel center cap
5. Reinstall tire and lower car
6. Loosen axle center nut with impact wrench (This is the easiest approach. Better than a breaker bar with a cheater. If no impact wrench is available, use break bar and cheater and a floor jack to lift cheater bar)
7. Remove engine cover and air intake pipe to air cleaner
8. Remove plugs for the ECU. Be gentle with the red cam hold down.
9. Pry off clips that hold cables in place and lay cables back
10. Remove air clean cover
11. Remove charge pipe connection to turbo and electrical connection to MAF
12. Remove air cleaner housing
13. Remove waste gate diagram valve actuator.
14. Remove Sensor from cat
15. Remove upper and lower bracket that hold NOX senser lines and electrical connections. The clips have bolts on the fire wall side
16. Remove aluminum bracket that air cleaner snap into
17. Remove cat
18. Remove bolts that hold motor mount heat shield on passenger side.
19. Remove left and right engine to motor mount bolt. Passenger side will not come out as it hits the heat shield
20. Remove hold down bolts for motor mount
21. Jack car up
22. Remove driver side motor mount after lifting up the engine
23. Install motor mount and electrical connection
24. Remove passenger side axle shaft from transfer case.
a. Remove tire
b. Remove axle bolt loosened in step 6
c. Remove brake caliper
d. Remove rotor
e. Remove dust shield
f. Remove suspension linkage on wheel hub
g. Snap out and remove axle shaft from diff
25. Lift engine and remove motor mount
26. Install new motor mount and electrical connection
27. Put everything back together
28. Change tranny mount

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63 190d (sold)
69 220D (sold)
69 280SL (sold)
76 BMW 2002 (sold)
86 190E-16v (Demised at Laguna Seca Turn 9)
87 300SDL (sold)
87 300SDL 135k
87 300TD 280k (sold)
95 E320W 211k
95 E320w 111k
05 C320 4matic
06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan)
2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC

Thanks for the information. My GLK250 has 135k on the clock and I've noticed the motor mounts are getting a little worn.

Looks like It'll be more than a 1-2 hour replacement job when I decide to swap them out!

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98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (123k)
13 GLK250 (135k)
06 E320CDI (323K)
16 C300 (62K)
82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)

I see you have a CDI. Had the same year. Great car. Didn't like the fly by wire brakes and the nose dive on braking. Other than that, it was a great car. On your GLK check the front driveshaft u joint. It is not serviceable and is located under the exhaust. The one on my car dried out and was ready to fail. It can make a huge mess.

__________________
63 190d (sold)
69 220D (sold)
69 280SL (sold)
76 BMW 2002 (sold)
86 190E-16v (Demised at Laguna Seca Turn 9)
87 300SDL (sold)
87 300SDL 135k
87 300TD 280k (sold)
95 E320W 211k
95 E320w 111k
05 C320 4matic
06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan)
2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC