[QUOTE=Both front and rear shock r/r is done with vehicle jacked up and on secure stands, one axle at a time in my case.[/QUOTE]

So you take the top nuts first or the bottom first? I am still envisioning, when the truck is on the ground, the shock is compressed to the correct length between top mounting point and lower control arm. Wouldn't it be more difficult to remove it while vehicle is jacked up? I don't think the shock is easily compressed by hand? What am I missing?
Springerfever, I sent u a pm regarding the ipod connection you post on the other forum. I think you can still use the dead changer, just swap out the wire 1-3 from connector C with the blaupunk wires.

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98 ML320 (gone but not forgotten)

Attached are pictures showing the top/bottom of the 163-320-23-13 and the 163-320-24-13.

The only difference externally are the lower mounting studs on the shocks. The 23's lower shaft is not threaded all the way and has a slot for a screwdriver at the end; the 24's is threaded all the way and has a torx end to prevent the shaft from turning.

supradupe...

Somebody help me here, I'll be tackleing this project Saturday a.m.

The spring/shock combination comes 'preloaded' or pretensioned'.

Looking at previous posts looks like you remove top three first and then the bottom. You are correct in saying that with the weight of the body on the unit it is compressed, but I believe only lightly. My plan is to give lower mount a shot of WD40 and then loosen, with weight of vehicle on strut..then jack-up, remove wheels and fenderwells and give the three top nuts a shot of WD40. Remove those three and then start on bottom. I'll probably go ahead and remove the spare before doing anything else..you know in all the miles I've never had to actually use it !!

As I recall I did this job by having the rear end of the vehicle on jackstands first. Then remove the 3 nuts on top of strut mount. Then remove bolt on bottom of strut. I used impact wrenches for everything except the 3 bolt on top, so when I hit the bolt on the bottom it just spun off. If you do it by hand I think you can use an allen or torx wrench or something on the shaft to keep the shaft from spinning, while you turn the bolt with a wrench.

It's really not required to remove the spare if you have the right wrenches and sockets. I think those small nuts were 13 mm. So with a 1/4 drive ratchet and the right size socket you can get at the nuts, for the ones the socket doesn't work the right size ratcheting wrench will make you wonder how you could have done it very easily without it.

Once you have removed the fasteners holding the strut in you'll see the other part of the suspension you need to remove bolts from to get the strut out and the new one in, I think it’s called the wishbone.

I hope you have impact wrenches, or are pretty strong, because all the bolts are on pretty tight. I used a torque wrench to re-torque them and as I recall some of the torque values were between 80-110 ft lbs. I just remember I had a hard time tighten them, of course I was not at a good angle to be able to lean on the torque wrench and that didn't help.

Edited
Actually the torque values for the big stuff was between 63 to 100 ft. lbs.

Thanks to all the members that helped me with this project. Finished this morning and then in the afternoon went by a local TiresPlus to get tires rotated. Friendly mechanic was nice enough to retighen my work with a torque wrench. Ron..you are right 100 ft lbs is alot but his two foot torque wrench was up to the task !

Just one hitch with my installation and I've posted pictures at benzworld regarding the easy fix.....I can't get over how much better my ML rides !!Its like over time (226,000 miles in my case!) you don't notice the gradual change.

On to the brakes !!

After reading this master thread so many times, I decided to look at my front shocks (rears were replaced by the dealer under warranty) and sure enough, there is a leaky shock waiting for my attention. It looks like the best option I have for the fronts is Bilstein and the job should be pretty straight forward. However, I still have some questions (it will be my first time to tackle a suspension component) for those of you who have already had hands-on experience:

1. any particular tricks for the front replacement? Good method of holding the rod while turning the upper nut?
2. Do I need to buy a separate mounting kit or I can reuse all the bushings and bolts?
3. What's the torque specs for the upper and lower bolt/nut? (25 ft/lbs 80ft/lbs ??)

Thanks!

Remove nut at top with vehicle on ground. I think you use an allen wrench in rod to keep from spinning, not sure.

Raise vehicle and remove nut on bottom.

Then install shock, attach bottom bolt first don’t make real tight yet. Then use a floor jack under front wishbone to raise suspension slowly and put top of shock rod thru hole and attach nut but not real tight.

Lower vehicle and tighten top nut to 30 NM and bottom to 130 NM only after the vehicle is on the ground.

As I recall the shocks came with new rubber bushings.

Thanks Ron for the advices. It looks like I won’t be subject to the danger of the torsion bars. One more question about the lower big bolt, is it a one-time use locking nut or I can get by without replacing it? Many thanks!

I did not replace mine and I don't remember for sure if I used the medium strength blue loctite on it or not, I don't think I did.

The shock comes with new self-locking nut for the top.

Thanks Ron!

OK, finally did the front with Bilstein over the weekends. Spent much time loosing and tightening the upper bolt. It wasn’t doable without some good shot of WD-40. At the other hand, I was really surprised at the length of the shock rod, it is really short and after I lowered the truck on ground, it almost like the truck is riding on the shock tube plus the bump stop. I thought that there should be some up-down travel for the blue dust cover, but there is absolutely no space. Is this right? I probably should check the stock setup before I removed them.

And I forget to support the lower control arm with a jack when removing shocks; will it cause any damages to tie rods or other suspension components?

No damage. Just would make it very hard to loosen the bolt on top when removing old shock. Also it you didn't tighten the top shock bolt with vehicle on ground or by jacking up the control arm it would also be very hard to tighten the bolt on top when installing new shock.


You do not use the bump stops from the old shock. They need to be removed. The Bilsteins do not come with new bump stops and they are not needed. From your situation it sound like the old bump stops keep the shock from having much damping movement.

I would hope someone else comments on this issue with the bump stops too, since I am not a professional mechanic and am only basing my opinion on my experience and the way it seems to me the shock should be installed. In other words don't take my opinion on the bump stop as the last word. I think I'm right but would like a second opinion.

It’s good to know the suspension components are still in good shape!

For the shocks, I ordered from aj-usa and they do come with bump stops attached to the rods, so I assumed that’s part of the standard deal from Bilistein. The new bump stops are smaller in diameter and shorter in length comparing with the stock ones being replaced, if I remember correctly.

I got mine from AJ-USA too. Now I don't recall whether I used them or not. I wish I could be more help.

I measured the shock again today. It looks like the Bilistein is almost the same length as the stock, combining with a smaller bumpstop, I don't think I have anything to worry about. In the other hand, I can say there is a huge change in ride quality and I just need to adjust to it.

Ron, thanks for all the help for this project! I think I still have one more favor to ask: I saw in another picture post you made, you have some really good-looking and solid jack stand in your garage. Could you share the brand name and source of those beauties? Thanks so much!