Ron
I believe 25nm is correct.
I just use bearing grease for reassembly. Make sure you use alot on that long adjustment bolt, and try to get that rubber "gaiter" up on top on the exposed threads as well.
Gilly

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Gilly,

I tried and tried to get that rubber bellows on the bolt. I thought I have it on, but no it came off and I was able to pull it out from the small space at the top. I did coat the entire bolt with grease. The torsion bar is reinstalled and tighten as before with depth gauge measuring 36 mm. Do you think I should leave it without the bellows or try again? Any hints as to how to get it to stay in place.

I've posted a photo of the cat installed in the other thread.

thanks, ron


Edited:

I slide the heat shield in that area forward and there was plenty of room to put the bellows on from the top.

You did good then. That bellows is just an SOB. I remember just packing it with grease and just sliding it over the bolt, never been happy with getting that back on right. I assume it's just so the threads don't seize, that'd be alot of fun to repair now, wouldn't it? Dangerous job then at that point, all that tension on that bolt.

Gilly

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I used Permatex anti-seize (part 133a) on the bolt. It's pretty messy stuff and doesn't wipe off or wash off easily so it should do the job.

I think I recalled seeing a 10.9 or something like that on the bolt head so hopefully it's of pretty good quality.

I don't know if you use this other anti-size stuff I've started to use but I did use it on the exhaust manifold bolts. It's high temperature (resists up to 2000 degrees F) and it's copper based and say's it can be used on oxygen sensors and spark plugs too. It's called VersaChem Type 13.

One of my car's is air-cooled and it get's real hot and fasteners can seize and cause real headaches so I try to be careful when tightening or loosing anything, especially if it's been subjected to intense heat.

If Ron in SC is out there, please let me know if your weld for the catalytic converter worked for you. It appears to have been two years since you did yours. My passenger side is cracked just as your drivers side.

Also how damaging would it be to drive it for a couple of weeks until I get to remove mine and weld. Anyone with thoughts would be appreciated.

Lastly, my indy stated the aftermarket ones sold by Phil will not hold up or at least last any time. Anyone with thoughts here would help as well. I have about had it with this particular indy shop anyway.

Thanks

Why are you R&R your cats when there was a service campaign to replace at no cost to the consumer?

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Steve32

Due to having 106,000 miles, we are well past the 80,000 mark that is required by law for emissions warranty.

The weld has held up excellently. It's probably better than the weld that
holds the other CAT together. Prior to welding I cleaned area with a
grinder using a stainless wire brush. I had the person who welded it cut a
.5 to 1 mm groove around the perimeter of the old weld which included the
part that was cracked. It was then TIG welded. I would not let anyone use
a MIG welder on it since the quality and penetration of a TIG weld is
superior.

NIKKI, I remember reading a post on the CAT service campaign (recall) in which it covered the vehicle regardless of miles. Furthermore, it reimbursed the owner for the expense to weld and repair the cats as well. This campaign came out in the last year, so I would call MBUSA to see if your ML is covered, it's worth a shot. The threads you were reading on the CAT R&R were posted pre-campaign.

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Steve32

Follow-up comment. If the converter weld failure is the only issue, consider removing the failed cat by cutting the pipe behind it, disconnect the front at the manifold, and remove it for welding; no need to remove whole stock assembly. Have it welded, install and couple the cut. Note on manifold square nut - Mercedes design is good, far superior to studs. If necessary, cut the bolts midway. New bolts and nuts will be needed anyway.

It seems like there is a bushing inside.