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  #1  
Old 06-10-2005, 12:20 PM
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Major rust repair

OK... this isn't really a hard question, but I'm not used to this kind of repair.

I just noticed My 79 300D is completely rusted out under the drivers seat. If it wasn't for the undercoating just hanging there I'd have a real good breeze on my fanny. How my seat has not collapse is a miracle.

I'm wondering exactly how I repair this. I know I get sheet metal... but what gauge and is this a home depot repair. I figure I'd epoxy it to the good metal after cutting out all the bad, sanding it back and priming it.

Or do I get diamond plate aluminum? Also someone told me they've heard of a repair panel made just for 123's.

My problem is this isn't just a 4" whole I'm talking about the entire area under the seat. So bending the metal would be a challenge for me.

Thoughts?

Bill

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  #2  
Old 06-10-2005, 12:29 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill()C
OK... this isn't really a hard question, but I'm not used to this kind of repair.

I just noticed My 79 300D is completely rusted out under the drivers seat. If it wasn't for the undercoating just hanging there I'd have a real good breeze on my fanny. How my seat has not collapse is a miracle.

I'm wondering exactly how I repair this. I know I get sheet metal... but what gauge and is this a home depot repair. I figure I'd epoxy it to the good metal after cutting out all the bad, sanding it back and priming it.

Or do I get diamond plate aluminum? Also someone told me they've heard of a repair panel made just for 123's.

My problem is this isn't just a 4" whole I'm talking about the entire area under the seat. So bending the metal would be a challenge for me.

Thoughts?

Bill
I would do it right and get a replacement floor pan...there are places that sell these...and weld it in place....
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Old 06-10-2005, 01:12 PM
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Yeah, WELD for sure! Find someone familiar with this kind of work or you will a) find the rust coming back in short order, and/or b) wind up with burned/melted components around the weld area. You'll need to cut out ALL the rust... cut clean back to good, bare metal, and weld from that point. I have never done this, but I am sure plenty of forum members have and can offer more advice. Good luck!
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  #4  
Old 06-10-2005, 01:20 PM
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I priced a floor pan for the '65 here not too long ago at the dealer and it was in the $160 range which in my opinion, is not too bad. Get a price on one from the dealer and go back with oem.
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Old 06-10-2005, 05:10 PM
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Dealer price was $425. Anyone know of any alternate sources?
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Old 06-10-2005, 05:13 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Try a google on autobody supply or autobody panels.....

I know there are other places, but none come to mind right now.
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #7  
Old 06-10-2005, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Dealer price was $425
damn - hard to believe that they are cheaper for a W110 than a 123.
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Old 06-10-2005, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill()C
Dealer price was $425. Anyone know of any alternate sources?
Did you try FastLane (the link is at top of the page) or contacting Phil (philip@peachparts.com)?

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  #9  
Old 06-10-2005, 09:37 PM
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Rust repair

The W114 floor pans are available at www.rustrepair.com I am not sure if they can be adapted to fit the W123 chasis. An expert may be able to help in that matter.
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  #10  
Old 06-10-2005, 10:48 PM
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[QUOTE=Lebenz]Did you try FastLane (the link is at top of the page) or contacting Phil (philip@peachparts.com)?

Didn't think to e-mail him... Hopefully he'll get back to me Monday. The site was the first place I looked... without luck.

Thanks guys.

Bill

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