I agree!

I got a brand new digital camera about 6 years ago....maybe 7 --- its my only camera --- has a big black spot on the display on the back where I dropped it one too many times. Some of the pics I take, have 2 little black spots show up in the pic; maybe grease on the lens? Anyway, if I recall, I've taken over 10,000 pics (auto numbering) and while the zoom quit working last year, the macro feature still works, the video still works, and it's still a great camera around the car and other various diesel projects. Naturally, I can't remember what brand or model, but for the garage, it's a great camera.

Sorry for the rant.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

From what I can see, that model is to much camera for my need.

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Any mid-range point and shoot will do the trick especially for rough handling (shop work). Look for good macro and ergonomics. Review white balance errors. Some cameras tend to be a different color on-screen than in the computer.

If he ask me personally I'd say get a (insert brand) DSLR but that might be too much for what's needed

If waterproofing is needed, Panasonics are good. I borrowed a friend's 12MP Panasonic Lumix w/ Leica lens - waterproof and great photos.

I can get one of these used off ebay for under $100.00
Nikon COOLPIX S6100

I can share batteries and memory cards with my daughter, she has eight spares of each.

What do you think?


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On paper, it seems great to me. The numbers are on the good side. Nice ISO range, auto focus lock (if subject moves, it doesn't refocus unless you release shutter button from halfway point). Not sure if the white balance is good, if you want to capture the true colors. It should be adjustable, but check first. Most P/S cameras already have macro settings included. You'll have to try the ergonomics yourself, since you probably have different sized hands than I do. I don't know if you take pics with mechanic gloves on, if it will "feel" right for you, if the buttons are easy to operate (believe me, some cameras I've tried have difficult buttons), etc.

If you're getting used, be careful since these are electronic items. Lots can go wrong that are not visible externally. I would spend a little bit more and get a new one instead, unless you know who the seller of the used camera is, and can trust that he or she has taken care of the unit prior to sale.

There's another camera thread too, but I'm not familiar with the chronology of P/S Nikons:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/open-discussion/323978-nice-little-camera-2.html

Sony Handycam HDR-CX190

Sony Handycam HDR-CX190 Review - Digital Camcorders - CNET Reviews

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In my experience a camcorder is a waste of money - I've never really used mine. Most of the videos I make are on the digital camera...

...I guess most people these days would use a mobile phone to make a video.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

12 megapixel ccd, 12X optical zoom lens, macro good enough to fill the frame with your thumbnail, uses AA batteries, survived my drop test (36" onto concrete floor). Runs $150 on eBay.

I use mine daily to Engineering and construction site photos and it has not quit on me yet.

This thread is timely, since I'm on the verge of replacing my 6 year old camera. I think my old camera is going into my toolbox; then I'll always have one in there. Naturally, in a few years when I clean out my toolbox it will get junked.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Canon G9, G10, G11 or G12.
These are the tools used by professional journalists as backup cameras. They are made of metal and are well sealed.
I'm a photojournalist. I buy equipment that can take abuse and keep working. The aforementioned Canon cameras may be "too much camera" for your uses but all you have to do is set it all on auto mode for everything and let the camera do the rest. The real big deal is that they are reliable tanks and in a shop, you need something that can take some abuse.

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

You can't go wrong with Canon's G series. I went with a Samsung TL500 with a Schneider 1.8 zoom lens. Bought it because of the Schneider lens and the weidest angle is equivalent to a 24mm in full frame dslr world while most compact do not go wider than 28mm. Also that I can shoot at 16:9 is a huge plus for me.

Great little camera comparable with the Lumix LX3 for little money.

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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

OK, Canons are tough, but can you drive nails with one? ( re: stories about the Nikon F1--which was tough enough to drive nails---supposedly,)

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

You need a camera that can take being dropped, numerous times.

You can't drive nails with any digital.
As for Canon, you can drive nails with the F1 or the F1n. You can do the same with most any pro level film camera. Especially the Nikon F or F2. u

I was a combat photographer with the Navy Seabees from 2003-2005. I took an issued Nikon D2h with me and two Leica M bodies. I learned that I had to have a backup as well as cameras that can take more abuse than most people would ever put gear through. None of the cameras had any significant problems that I or indirect enemy fire, didn't cause.

I've shot with Pentax, Canon, Nikon, Leica, Fujica and Contax (not in that order) over the years and while I love the Leicas, their offerings are just too pricey. All those marques have professional lines that are absolutely first rate that can take a ton of abuse. Film cameras, that is. These days, the only cameras I'd trust for heavy professional use are the Canon and Nikon pro series. The single digit ones.

Now I have a couple vintage 1950's rangefinders, a suite of lenses and a Nikon D2x digital I use for modern work.

The OP doesn't need all that but probably needs a camera that can take some heavy use and some bumps. For use in a shop, I'd definitely recommend a G series Canon.

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

whunter,

Do you want this camera to fit in your pocket?

Comment about battery life. If you use Lithium AA's they will last much longer in the camera than Alkaline.

Second comment about battery life. If you prefer rechargeables, get the "pre-charged" or "non-self-discharging" type of NiMH batteries. Once charged, they can retain most of their charge for a year or more, and thus aren't as annoying as previous rechargeable battery technology.

Why don't you just stop being cheap and get yourself a CVF-50 for your Hasselblad V?

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Remember, Safety Third!
'99 E300 Turbodiesel, '82 300TD, 1996 12V Cummins Turbo, '94 Neoplan - Detroit 6V92TA