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  #16  
Old 07-02-2013, 08:43 AM
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Now that I see what you are trying to do, I think you're poor boy approach is quite good. Make the temporary fence and rip it from both sides. Sure would be good to have a reliable helper for this operation.

To rip a 4 X 4 takes a 12" cabinet saw. I have a sixties model Powermatic, 5HP, 12" that came out of a high school shop. It has a Biesemeir fence added. It and a couple of rollers on stands that I have, would make short order out of that job. Wish you were closer.

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  #17  
Old 07-03-2013, 03:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Pruijt View Post
If you only need to cut wood like that once in a while you can take it to a shop that has the right equipment.


Rob
In principle yes but I think there's a different work ethic where you are! Besides then there's a transportation problem and perhaps the necessity to buy a unimog and a long trailer. Not a bad idea actually...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Air&Road View Post
Now that I see what you are trying to do, I think you're poor boy approach is quite good. Make the temporary fence and rip it from both sides. Sure would be good to have a reliable helper for this operation.

To rip a 4 X 4 takes a 12" cabinet saw. I have a sixties model Powermatic, 5HP, 12" that came out of a high school shop. It has a Biesemeir fence added. It and a couple of rollers on stands that I have, would make short order out of that job. Wish you were closer.

I have had real trouble in the past trying to get a straight edge cutting and then flipping over - you need to start off with two parallel sides which isn't likely and then you need to be lucky that the wood doesn't twist after it has been (or during the) cut. I always aim for a nice fraction of a millimeter tolerance but I'm frequently disappointed!
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  #18  
Old 07-03-2013, 06:38 AM
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A bandsaw might be a better choice for sawing logs. Sounds like you want a sawmill.

I have a bandsaw and an 8" joiner that make a versatile combination.

Woodworking tools are cheap here but wood is expensive. Takes most of the fun out of wordworking.
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  #19  
Old 07-03-2013, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by TwitchKitty View Post
A bandsaw might be a better choice for sawing logs. Sounds like you want a sawmill.

I have a bandsaw and an 8" joiner that make a versatile combination.

Woodworking tools are cheap here but wood is expensive. Takes most of the fun out of wordworking.
Yes I do want a saw mill - preferably a water driven mill in the middle of nowhere with lots of barns for building cars and lots of space for growing me own grub.

How straight are your cuts with a band saw? I've never been happy with jig saws - blades wander and bend - I was guessing a band saw would be similar (though probably not quite as bad as the jigsaw cantilever blade set up).
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  #20  
Old 07-03-2013, 08:43 AM
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I agree with the comment above about looking on CraigsList. I bought a Delta table saw about 15 years ago for $150. It was the floor model at a store like Home Depot. It's not very powerful, but it has served me reasonably well all these years. Sawing can be dangerous even with the right equipment, I wouldn't recommend scrimping on something like this.
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  #21  
Old 07-03-2013, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
In principle yes but I think there's a different work ethic where you are! Besides then there's a transportation problem and perhaps the necessity to buy a unimog and a long trailer. Not a bad idea actually...
It has more to do with limited space than work ethic.
City life has some disadvantages.

On the other hand, my late father alway said "the first half of your life you collect all sorts of thing, the second half you try to get rid of them"
Now at 56 I begin to feel he was right.
If I need a truck or a trailer I rent(or borrow) one.

Rob
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  #22  
Old 07-03-2013, 09:54 AM
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Do you own a chain saw? There is a very cheap accessory for 18" blades that will roll along the side of that beam and do a decent job. you can adjust the width of the board you want to cut.

A regular saw blade thickness is 1/8" but with the chain saw it takes 5/16" so you'll have a little more waste and the cut is also rough so add that when considering the thickness for the board.

You only need to change the chain and put one with the teeth designed to run with the grain, not crosscut like most are.
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  #23  
Old 07-03-2013, 11:45 AM
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No chain saw - yet...

...I'm still in what Rob might call the first half of life - I'm still collecting stuff.

At the moment I'd rather be a collector than be someone who gets someone else to do it. I don't like to turn a technical problem into a people problem; I don't like to outsource.
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1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #24  
Old 07-03-2013, 01:38 PM
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What if you snapped a really tight chalk line along the middle and then lined up your fence, clamping it at three points. With a square transfer the ends of the chalk line to the opposing face and snap another, again clamping the fence in three places.
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  #25  
Old 07-03-2013, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air&Road View Post
What if you snapped a really tight chalk line along the middle and then lined up your fence, clamping it at three points. With a square transfer the ends of the chalk line to the opposing face and snap another, again clamping the fence in three places.
That would work great if the opposing sides were parallel.

But remember he said, "{And sure in principle if you have a nice square bit of wood you can flip it over and cut into the other side - so that the two not deep enough cuts meet - but how many times have you actually seen a nice square bit of wood? If you've ever tried this before you'll be taking your time with a hand saw too!}"

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