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  #1  
Old 08-18-2014, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
Are you suggesting that there is some sensor that is sending bad info to the ECU and screwing up the warm-up idle? I'm not so good with all the technical lingo you packed into your post there .
Well it is er all about that there um electrickery innit?

Don't feel bad about not knowing the technical lingo - you'll get there in the end.

(All I can say is that my M102 works that way)
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  #2  
Old 08-18-2014, 01:59 PM
is thinning the herd
 
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Unplug the vacuum line going into the fuel pressure regulator, see if its wet with the fuel. Seen more than a couple fail on 60*s.
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  #3  
Old 08-18-2014, 02:38 PM
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I think you're overlooking the easiest fix.

Dye your hair grey and drive around 15 mph under the speed limit with your left blinker on for the entire day. As Buick intended.
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  #4  
Old 08-18-2014, 03:05 PM
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i would place my bet on o2 sensors. a sensor can often be "lazy". you have to remember, this is an obd1 car. obd 1 is a whole lot dumber. does the coolant temp read properly on the dash?

if the temp is not reading correctly, it could be failing to go into closed loop mode. hence the raw fuel smell. you really are working blindly without a scan tool that has live data mode.
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  #5  
Old 08-18-2014, 10:50 PM
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A long shot but known to be a problem is the intake manifold gasket. These start to leak for some reason and all sorts of weird things will take place since the air/fuel ratio is always trying to correct itself.

A quick and actually safe way to find such a leak is to pick up a tool that looks like a long thin pipe on the end of a hose. The other end of the hose connects to a propane tank like the propane torches use. Start the engine and crack the valve on the propane tank so that a very small amount of propane is coming out.

Then wave the end of the pipe with the propane feed close to the intake manifold bolts and runners. If you hear an increase or decrease in RPM you have found a leak where the engine is sucking in air and, in this case, propane. Check all the vacuum connections in the same way. Any change in RPM is a leak because the additional propane screws up your air/fuel ratio.

Mechanics do this all the time. It sounds risky but I don't think you would have any problem with doing this in a safe manner. This also has the advantage of being repeatable. You engine may change RPM at odd times but with this method every time you move the pipe to the same spot the RPM will change.
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  #6  
Old 08-18-2014, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idle View Post
A long shot but known to be a problem is the intake manifold gasket. These start to leak for some reason and all sorts of weird things will take place since the air/fuel ratio is always trying to correct itself.

A quick and actually safe way to find such a leak is to pick up a tool that looks like a long thin pipe on the end of a hose. The other end of the hose connects to a propane tank like the propane torches use. Start the engine and crack the valve on the propane tank so that a very small amount of propane is coming out.

Then wave the end of the pipe with the propane feed close to the intake manifold bolts and runners. If you hear an increase or decrease in RPM you have found a leak where the engine is sucking in air and, in this case, propane. Check all the vacuum connections in the same way. Any change in RPM is a leak because the additional propane screws up your air/fuel ratio.

Mechanics do this all the time. It sounds risky but I don't think you would have any problem with doing this in a safe manner. This also has the advantage of being repeatable. You engine may change RPM at odd times but with this method every time you move the pipe to the same spot the RPM will change.
This should be moved to P&R since it will take hopey and prayer not get blowed up
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  #7  
Old 08-19-2014, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idle View Post
A long shot but known to be a problem is the intake manifold gasket. These start to leak for some reason and all sorts of weird things will take place since the air/fuel ratio is always trying to correct itself.

A quick and actually safe way to find such a leak is to pick up a tool that looks like a long thin pipe on the end of a hose. The other end of the hose connects to a propane tank like the propane torches use. Start the engine and crack the valve on the propane tank so that a very small amount of propane is coming out.

Then wave the end of the pipe with the propane feed close to the intake manifold bolts and runners. If you hear an increase or decrease in RPM you have found a leak where the engine is sucking in air and, in this case, propane. Check all the vacuum connections in the same way. Any change in RPM is a leak because the additional propane screws up your air/fuel ratio.

Mechanics do this all the time. It sounds risky but I don't think you would have any problem with doing this in a safe manner. This also has the advantage of being repeatable. You engine may change RPM at odd times but with this method every time you move the pipe to the same spot the RPM will change.
Interesting test, but I have no propane on hand... I already have the (improved metal) gaskets, so it's just a matter of time before I install them. I figure, though, that the smell of fuel is probably due to something else.
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  #8  
Old 08-18-2014, 03:11 PM
is thinning the herd
 
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His car should have a 7730 which is a pretty decent ecu for OBD1 american cars.

Does your car have a temp gauge? I had a thermostat stuck open on a Fiero with a 60* and it would never go into closed loop.
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  #9  
Old 08-18-2014, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselPaul View Post
Unplug the vacuum line going into the fuel pressure regulator, see if its wet with the fuel. Seen more than a couple fail on 60*s.
I did that a few days ago and it was bone-dry... and then I realized that I would probably be better off doing it right after running the car, and not when it's been sitting for a few days. So I'll do it again today.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampYankee View Post
I think you're overlooking the easiest fix.

Dye your hair grey and drive around 15 mph under the speed limit with your left blinker on for the entire day. As Buick intended.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmaysob View Post
i would place my bet on o2 sensors. a sensor can often be "lazy". you have to remember, this is an obd1 car. obd 1 is a whole lot dumber. does the coolant temp read properly on the dash?

if the temp is not reading correctly, it could be failing to go into closed loop mode. hence the raw fuel smell. you really are working blindly without a scan tool that has live data mode.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselPaul View Post
His car should have a 7730 which is a pretty decent ecu for OBD1 american cars.

Does your car have a temp gauge? I had a thermostat stuck open on a Fiero with a 60* and it would never go into closed loop.
I'll check & see what the FSM says about the O2.

The car has a temp gauge, and the temp is absolutely spot-on.
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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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  #10  
Old 08-18-2014, 04:05 PM
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The FSM says the the PCM will tell me if the O2 sensor shows a lean or rich condition.
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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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  #11  
Old 08-18-2014, 05:06 PM
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Take a fuel pressure reading then call me in the morning.A fuel pump can become weak before giving out all together.Not the same car but A Mercedes 190e common issue ,I dont know if thats why they started installing 2 pumps on their setups after 1985 but Ive owned a few to find out how this can become an overlooked issue.Do this if your check list starts to dwindle down .I believe a diagnostic cost from a shop is just one hr of labor ,this would be well worth the cost for the fact they might catch other items that might leave you stranded paying for a tow, older cars are great as long as their not on back of a tow truck for simple small shi% .Does a Buick have a flux capasitor?
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  #12  
Old 08-18-2014, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
The FSM says the the PCM will tell me if the O2 sensor shows a lean or rich condition.
i would normally agree, however i had a 190e a few years back that never set a dtc or lit the o2 sensor light. was running so rich, it burnt the cat out. i had even hooked a meter up to the sensor and saw it changing between rich and lean. threw everything else at it. finally decided at the last to replace the o2 sensor. completely different car after that.

the o2 sensor is constantly changing between rich and lean. a lazy sensor could be favoring the rich side. ( higher voltage)

you need to find someone with a scanner that will do live mode, preferably mode 6 data. often times there will be a misfire present, but it doesnt cause enough misfire counts to trigger a dtc.
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  #13  
Old 08-18-2014, 05:40 PM
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i had a camry that had the same symptoms.the pcv valve was plugged.
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  #14  
Old 08-18-2014, 06:26 PM
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also, the fuel pressure regulator test can be done while running.
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  #15  
Old 08-18-2014, 06:27 PM
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Sell it and beat around in the Camry.
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