I messed around and let a friend drag this thing into the yard and have backed in to trying to get it to start. It has been sitting for about 7 years. After letting cylinders soak I started trying to turn it over today and it turns over fine with a charged battery. I tried pouring a little fuel in the carb and cranking it and there is no spark. This vehicle has a mechanical linkage that acts as the stater solenoid so the only wire to the starter is the big one from the battery. Does anyone have a link to a wiring diagram showing what is going on at coil. I'm finding dwgs that show hot wire from the ign switch through a resistor on the firewall and then to the coil. The other wire from the coil goes to the side of the distributor. I've got 12 volts on both terminals of the coil all the time along with 12 volts on the wire from the coil to the side of the distributor. My plan tomorrow is to test the coil first. Everything I find on the net shows a system with an electrical solenoid at the stater.

tia

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Jim

the solenoid only works as a switch so that should not be the problem. Aside from the coil there is a condenser usually mounted to the side of the distributor. Seldom goes bad but if it does it will not work. To hot wire it a wire from the plus side of the coil to the plus of the battery should make it start. I am not sure where the minus side is supposed to go... possibly the distributor.

It is shovel in a sand box simple. Don't over think it.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Try lightly filing the point contacts, it's a common issue on point systems that have sat for long periods.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

The + side of the coil is attached by a wire to the starter solenoid or a ballast resistor mount on the firewall. There may be a wire both from the solenoid and the ballast resistor to the + side of the coil.The - of the coil is attached by a wire to the distributor. When cranking the ballast resistor is bypassed providing a full 12 volts to the coil. When running the ballast resistor reduces the voltage to the coil to 9 volts. The points should be gapped to approximately .016 inch or the thickness of a business card. The dwell should be approximately 29-32 degrees of dwell. The points are gapped when the rubbing block on the points are on the high side of the distributor cam.

First off thanks for guidance. I should be able to sort out now.

After reviewing schematics it seems the hot wire goes from the "ign" terminal on the ignition switchl to the resistor on the firewall then to "+" on the coil. Negative from coil goes to distributor. I'll take advise as stated and continue on. Should be able to resolve it now.

I'm going to fuel it by pouring gas in carb to start then once it runs start removing the fuel tank to get it cleaned up. Based on nosing around I'd hate to have to try to buy a new fuel tank for this thing. They seem to be somewhat rare.

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Jim

Fially ! .

My worthless long out of date Chevy training comes in use full ! =8-) .

Because this vehicle has a manually operated pedal starter there is NO SOLENOID & BY - PASS CIRCUIT ! .

One you've ascertained voltage at the coil, disconnect both wires and test the resistance across the two smaller terminals ~ if there's a ballast resistor on the firewall you use a 1.6 Ohm coil .

If you wisely delete the ballast resistor you use a 3 Ohm coil .

I highly suggest an epoxy filled coil, they're cheap @ NAPA , avoid the Pep Boys, Autozone & O'rielly's Chinese ones .

The gap is .016" or 25 degrees i9f you have a dwell meter .

Once it's running, set the initial timing advance at 800 or less RPM's and make sure there's NO VACUUM SIGNAL to the dizzy until you open the throttle

I ASS-U-ME'D this is a V8 ? .

If it's a 6 cylinder the dwell is 33 degrees and the timing marks are on the flywheel, look just above and behind the starter motor, you'll see a little widow with a steel pointer in it, there's a ball bearing pressed into the flywheel and you need to set the ball on the pointer at 600 or less RPM .

Also, if it's an inline 6 Banger, you're going to need to adjust the valves before anything else, guaranteed they're tight and this will cause hard starting and such bad idle you'll have trouble timing it .

I love these old "Task Force" Chevy trucks, please share some pictures even if it's nasty .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

It is an inline 6. Found bad coil and resistor is bad too. Thanks for heads up on coil. Got fuel tank pulled today and it will be going to Ben''s Radiator shop for cleaning and refurbishment. Had about 3 gallons of nasty looking brown liquid that when thrown on burn pile still had some btu's. The tank does have a hole in it that will need to be repaired.

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Jim

What was found with the resistor? In the initial post there was 12V to the coil which would indicate continuity.

Pics please if you get a chance.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

O.K., if the original engine it's a 235 CID, some times the heavier duty 261 was installed, it looks the same but is far better .

I really don't like the ballast resistors, get the premium epoxy filled coil for a 1967 Porsche 912, it'll out last you .

Do the valve adjust now whilst you're waiting for the tank to be cleaned .

Tank cleaning at home is pretty simple and you'll usually do a batter job of it but needing a hold patched means a shop .

Still waiting on pictures...

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Here's pic. The interior reminds me of a school bus I used to ride in the 1st grade. Suburbans have come a long way since '57.

The hot wire, right now, is going from IGN to the + on the coil and not through the resistor. I'm going to go with a 3 ohm epoxy filled coil.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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Jim

Yes you will have to have a different coil either resistor bypassed or it will burn the points in short order.

That is a nice looking sub. I can only imagine what it would go for today on bringatrailer.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

It is a 2 door too.

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Jim

Hm ;

I'm wondering of that picture is photoshopped ? . WHERE'S THE RUST ? .

Kidding .

Find an old dwell tachometer and use it to set the dwell 'on the fly' to 33 degrees, then button 'er up and set the timing to ball on pointer .

Adding a Pertronix "Ignitor" will really wake it up and make for easy starting cold or hot and smoother idle, more power and better fuel economy as well .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

That is a nice Burb'!

Looks like a perfect candidate to continue as a survivor vs. a restoration.

Post more pics please if you can.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer