The ups and downs of owning a W123.130 (non turbo 300D) - Conversion to petrol / gas! - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #61 11-08-2018, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

...

Keep up with your build threads, they're always interesting. I have a multi-part update for my own that I've been procrastinating on, maybe this evening is the time to finally update it.

Of course it is time!

As I'm sure you know these long thread are sometimes a bit lonely for the authors but they're also rewarding when you look back and think - "wow to think I used to struggle with adjusting valves"

Diseasel300 · #62 11-08-2018, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

As I'm sure you know these long thread are sometimes a bit lonely for the authors but they're also rewarding when you look back and think - "wow to think I used to struggle with adjusting valves"

This is true to an extent, but it's also interesting how many private messages I get from people who are helped by my long, boring, coma-inducing threads. I learn from other people's mistakes, I just hope that by documenting things that maybe someone can learn from mine. If I can help just ONE person who's struggling with something, that's rewarding enough for me.

Stretch · #63 11-09-2018, 03:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

This is true to an extent, but it's also interesting how many private messages I get from people who are helped by my long, boring, coma-inducing threads. I learn from other people's mistakes, I just hope that by documenting things that maybe someone can learn from mine. If I can help just ONE person who's struggling with something, that's rewarding enough for me.

I too always try to help - that's why I try to post on other threads too.

I think the blogging element of threads like these is also to "spread the fun" - I often enjoy fiddling and fixing stuff and want to share that enjoyment. Sure there are times where you wish you hadn't started something but if you own up to your struggles often someone will pop up with a helpful comment to speed you back on track.

vwnate1 · #64 11-09-2018, 10:09 AM

To this just discovered great thread .

I agree, your tech notes are very helpful to everyone who reads them .

Stretch · #65 11-09-2018, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

To this just discovered great thread .

I agree, your tech notes are very helpful to everyone who reads them .

There's more of the same in the links in my signature - though to be honest sometimes I look at the lengths of these threads and think life is too short!

Stretch · #66 11-09-2018, 10:57 AM

...I've got to sort out the workshop and make some space and then get that Volvo of mine more "done"

Today =>

I had a good look at the extra parts.

I though the trailing arms would be done for - they do have more surface corrosion than the ones that came with my 300D - but I reckon they can be saved. Same goes for the subframe. If I de-rust and paint them I reckon I can get some cash back.

Top tip #1:-

A few years ago I bought one of these low voltage low torque impact drivers (to help dismantle the Land Rover) and it has been just the ticket ever since. It helps speed up the wonderful process of taking stuff to bits but with only 105Nm of oompf it doesn't knacker things like my air impact gun can.

(I've often thought impact guns are more trouble than they're worth - and in the wrong hands I think that is still so - but low impact impact guns - now that's a different thing)

All because I wanted the differential. It turns out to be a 3.69 final drive.

Top tip #2:-

After years of trying different penetrating oils I stumbled upon this one=>

As a penetrating oil it is pretty mediocre - but - it does quite an OK job of removing rust from machined surfaces (such as where the markings on a differential are stamped) - instead of breaking out the acid based rust eaters like Evaporust or Rustyco (seems to be an European based product)

Whilst I like the acid base rust eaters and use them a lot you might not want to get out the goggles and the long sleeved gloves just yet - so this Brunox spray does an OK intermediary job...

vwnate1 · #67 11-09-2018, 08:09 PM

I've tested a lot of them over the decades and still have yet to find one better than Kano Lab's KROIL .

For the cleaning of stamped in ratio #'s and the like, I just use a toothbrush sized stainless steel bristled wire brush .

Also handy for cleaning sealing machined surfaces like the final drive cover with out leaving any scratches / gouges, used with Ether (starting fluid) as a solvent it's fast too .

Stretch · #68 11-09-2018, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

I've tested a lot of them over the decades and still have yet to find one better than Kano Lab's KROIL .

For the cleaning of stamped in ratio #'s and the like, I just use a toothbrush sized stainless steel bristled wire brush .

Also handy for cleaning sealing machined surfaces like the final drive cover with out leaving any scratches / gouges, used with Ether (starting fluid) as a solvent it's fast too .

I've heard so much about this KROIL product over the years (mainly on this forum and BW) and have never been able to source it - I've had to look for alternatives. At the moment I've settled on this one being the best I can buy here in Holland =>

https://www.kroon-oil.com/nl/catalogus/onderhoud_smeermiddelen/414/pto-mos2/1589/

I've rarely seen it for sale outside of the Benelux countries

Instead of coming in an aerosol it has a handy little pump feature

vwnate1 · #69 11-09-2018, 10:24 PM

They're all available from Kano Labs on Tennessee .

Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

They have a 'deal' that includes a gallon can and a pump oiler, I find I always need the aerosol stuff to get it in some crevice .

The neat part is : you don't need to use much, just spray it in and let it soak a while, I like to tap the item to shock it and help it wick in .

Stretch · #70 11-09-2018, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

They're all available from Kano Labs on Tennessee .

Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

They have a 'deal' that includes a gallon can and a pump oiler, I find I always need the aerosol stuff to get it in some crevice .

The neat part is : you don't need to use much, just spray it in and let it soak a while, I like to tap the item to shock it and help it wick in .

Thanks for the link but being on the other side of the world makes ordering stuff like this from the US almost impossible: Couriers won't carry aerosols or "dangerous" liquids. Even getting stuff from the UK to Holland is in practice impossible these days. The concept of moving stuff over water is too much for courier companies. I reckon there's some sort of Tam o Shanter witch thing going on with couriers - its the only logical conclusion to draw...

To top it all off - even if you can find a courier (which would be seriously expensive) - you then get stiffed by the import duties for products outside of the EU. The limit in Holland is anything over 20 euros including the shipping costs then they start applying taxes.

So Kroil isn't going to happen - back to mixing Acetone with ATF eh?

Diseasel300 · #71 11-09-2018, 11:23 PM

I've personally always found Kroil to be highly overrated. For the cost, ATF/Acetone or Liquid Wrench work just as good if not better in my experience. The key is PATIENCE with really rusty stuff. Spray it, let it sit for a day, come back and soak again, sit another day, then use your choice of power to get the fastener off. My tool of choice is an old 70s B&D electric impact. It's painfully weak compared to what's out there today, but it's never failed to remove a nut/bolt and won't round the head off.

If you're a YouTube watcher, here's an interesting video comparing penetrating oils:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

vwnate1 · #72 11-09-2018, 11:37 PM

Yes, patience is the key .

Much of the stuff I need to take apart would be ruined by power tools because they're so small or screws etc. .

Yes, ATF & Acetone is great but it's also a serious health hazard, pass .

Diseasel300 · #73 11-09-2018, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

Yes, ATF & Acetone is great but it's also a serious health hazard, pass .

Read up on that Kroil. There's a reason it can only be shipped by motor freight. Anything that's going to be a penetrating fluid is gonna be a health hazard.

Stretch · #74 11-10-2018, 10:20 AM

Engines need to be stored - I've got the Volvo B20 that's about to go back in to the Volvo so that can hang about on the engine stand if only I could find a place for the Land Rover 2,25 diesel...

...can't lift the Land Rover engine until I get the new M115 on its own mobile skateboard

So today was building trolleys for engines. It is becoming a bit of a Ground Hog Day event - done it a few times now.

For the OM617 (see earlier posts) I got all bunched up about supporting the engine on the engine mounts and just under the flywheel. This probably is the nicest way if you've got a newly painted sump - however - silly simple quick and dirty is the order of the day today.

^^^^^SImple construction that makes sure the castors are adequately supported^^^^^

Big long screws going through the sides - a few over priced corner reinforcing bits and a top of plywood that is semi-sacrificial.

This "design" for want of a better description is intended to let the engine sink into the plywood a bit - I don't really care about the plywood it'll probably be alright under the engine for unknown months (hopefully not years!) - then it can be burnt in the wood burning stove.

I'm not fiddling about making engine mount arm supports.

Note about the width dimension => Whilst you want the trolley to be wide enough to hold the engine don't forget that you will be limited by the width of the legs on your engine crane - also an irritating "feature" of many engine stands - same bloody width of the engine crane legs they sell as a set so you have to jiggle and cock about...

(This isn't such a problem if you are block and tackling from a handy tree or beam)

^^^^Still silly simple^^^^

Just a ratchet strap to hold the engine on my new skateboard...

...whilst I'm wary of cheapo ratchet straps (never exceed half their maximum weight and never use them to lift things => that's asking for trouble) they do have their uses if you don't want to leave your decent industrial ones strapped to an engine for an unkown number of months (hopefully not years!)

Mike D · #75 11-10-2018, 11:20 AM

Also be aware of the fact the cheap straps are very susceptible to chemical deterioration. Use caution if you spray cleaning fluids or lubricants onto the engine/transmission.