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  #61  
Old 05-08-2017, 09:14 AM
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Nice progress, Bob!

And some good news.... I have Euro tail lights in my 87 300D. As you discovered, the rear side marker lamps do not exist on the Euro lights/reflectors. However, with BOTH bulbs removed, it does not trigger a bulb-out warning light on the dash. Give it a try!

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  #62  
Old 05-08-2017, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Nice progress, Bob!

And some good news.... I have Euro tail lights in my 87 300D. As you discovered, the rear side marker lamps do not exist on the Euro lights/reflectors. However, with BOTH bulbs removed, it does not trigger a bulb-out warning light on the dash. Give it a try!

I read last night on 500E Board someone mention that about pulling both bulbs - tried it on my way to work and it worked! I'm inclined to just run it this way with the Euro look, although I kept the US reflectors in case I want to switch back, or compare side-by-side one day.

Just out of curiosity, what made you (and others) switch to the Euro rears? Do people just like to delete the sidemarkers?

Personally I wish I could get rid of the front turn signals as running lights (i.e., only use them as indicators). Is that just as simple as switching from a dual- to a single-filament bulb, or is the actual lens/socket different?
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  #63  
Old 05-08-2017, 10:17 PM
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Easiest way is to pull the running light pin from the plug.
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  #64  
Old 05-09-2017, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by party View Post
Easiest way is to pull the running light pin from the plug.
Ah, sounds easy enough. This won't mess with the bulb-out relay?
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  #65  
Old 05-09-2017, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
Ah, sounds easy enough. This won't mess with the bulb-out relay?
Oof. Did not consider that because my car doesn't have that feature.

If you have Euro headlights, that lead is used to power the city light.
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  #66  
Old 05-22-2017, 11:14 PM
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Finally got the garage unpacked and organized yesterday, so today I swapped in the front brake pads I've been meaning to do for the past few weeks. Now, for the first time in months, I can drive the car without any warning lights on in the dash! It's been a revolving door of bulb-out, worn front pads, and low windscreen washer fluid lamps.

Pretty easy job. Once I got the car jacked up and the wheels off, I realized that I didn't have the fixed calipers like in the DIY article I studied, so I had to whip out the FSM and look over the procedure for my floating calipers. Easy enough, except I snapped a head off of the self-locking retaining bolt that holds the caliper together on the driver's side. My impact wrench had a low battery and the bolt wouldn't budge, so I tried a breaker bar and the thing just popped. Luckily, I was able to get the pin out and use a a pair of pliers to screw out the few threads that were still in place, and of course the new pads come with new retaining bolts, which was a relief.

When I got to the passenger side I made sure to soak it in plenty of WD-40 first, plus charge the battery for my impact wrench a little bit - worked like a charm. It's funny the difference between the first and second time you do something - I probably had the passenger side done in 1/3 the time the driver's side took me.

Ran out of time before I got to the rear pads, but I've got them in hand, and have another day off this Friday, so I think I'll tackle them then.
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  #67  
Old 05-25-2017, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
Just out of curiosity, what made you (and others) switch to the Euro rears? Do people just like to delete the sidemarkers?
At the time, I found someone selling Euro tails at a good price and they looked like a neat upgrade for my '87 to replace the stock rears. After I got them, I discovered the difference with the side marker light. I think back then (15 years ago?), the 94-95 US rears were expensive and/or hard to find used. Now, it would be easier and cheaper to just get the 94-95 US tails.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
Personally I wish I could get rid of the front turn signals as running lights (i.e., only use them as indicators). Is that just as simple as switching from a dual- to a single-filament bulb, or is the actual lens/socket different?
Another good question. I'm not sure if any factory configuration was offered without front markers. You could experiment and see what happens, just make sure the result will be legal in your state!
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  #68  
Old 06-05-2017, 01:30 AM
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Kind of a lot going on, just not very quickly.

Shortly before doing the front brake pads, there appeared a sort of grinding noise that periodically and varied with engine speed. My suspicion was that it was pulley related. It was suggested to me to inspect the tensioner pulley and sure enough, when I did, I found the bearing to be excessively worn and noisy.

I was sort of dreading pulling the drive belt, because I didn't want to have to remove the fan and shroud assembly, which I had read was a painful procedure, and required special tools (ot at least improvisation). Well, it turned out to be extremely easy and straightforward, and nothing out of the ordinary was needed. I just used a hex socket on a ratchet with a cheater bar to help break the initial torque. I think I had the whole thing off in 20 minutes, which includes stopping to check my progress against an online DIY or the FSM. Not bad, considering I'd never done this before.

After getting the belt off, I found that I could spin the pulley by hand and it would free wheel for a couple of seconds or more. I also found the entire front end of the engine was caked with a thick coat of gummy motor oil, especially on the tensioner arm, vacuum pump, and AC compressor.

I didn't take a "before" pic, but some time spent with an engine degreaser and pressure washer yielded a very clean engine:

Bimmer-Bob's 300D Build-1.jpg
Bimmer-Bob's 300D Build-2.jpg

Next I got to ordering some parts:

Bimmer-Bob's 300D Build-3.jpg

So far, so good, just waiting on a couple more things to arrive until I can get started and wrap this job up.
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Last edited by Bimmer-Bob; 06-05-2017 at 10:34 AM.
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  #69  
Old 06-10-2017, 02:09 AM
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So, I finally pulled the tensioner arm (had to wait for a 12mm hex socket), and just like the pulley, the bearing was completely shot. I replaced both the tensioner arm and pulley with new INA parts, and replaced the missing dust caps for both.

I also treated myself to a new Continental serpentine belt, and decided to upgrade from the original 9-blade metal fan to the newer 11-blade plastic fan from the OM606, as well as a Sachs fan clutch and replacement fan shroud for my cracked original. Unfortunately, I didn't realize at the time that I could've probably upgraded to a 2-piece shroud, but oh well.

While I was there, I figured I'd replace the vacuum pump. I had no idea what kind of condition it was in, other than the fact that it looked like the newer style (no crimped cover) and was obviously an OEM replacement rather than the original OE part from the factory (Star was ground off). It looked like there was a slight leak from the gasket, so that was another reason to pull the thing. It turns out it was the newer style, and the gasket was indeed coming apart in a couple places. It was also stamped with a 1997 manufacture date - the new one was made in 2013.

Unfortunately, when I was putting everything back together, I snapped one of the vacuum pump bolts. Hoping the other 5 bolts would seal the pump against the timing case well enough, I just put everything back together, went to bed, and drove the car to work the next day. The good news - the mysterious grinding noise is gone, and the car seems to run a little quieter overall - I think at least some of the ticking was attributable to the worn bearings. The bad news is that I have a new oil leak (from the VP, of course).

So the car is parked back in the garage while I wait for six new bolts to arrive, as well as a new gasket (just in case). Probably get the car torn down again over the weekend to see just how bad the damage is - really hoping the bolt didn't snap flush with the timing case, as I'd like to be able to get a pair of pliers on it rather than drill it out.

I was briefly pretty upset with myself, but I really think sometimes we just have to make some mistakes, and that this kind of stuff is just part of being a gearhead. It seems like every job has a little setback, especially for a hobbyist like me, and I guess I'm okay with that.
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  #70  
Old 06-18-2017, 08:34 PM
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Finally got the bolt out last night. I ordered a Dremel online, and had to wait for that to ship, and then yesterday finally picked up a cut-off wheel. I used that to cut a slot into the broken bolt, and it turned out easily with a flathead screwdriver. Nice when things go so smoothly!

However, when I went to reinstall the VP, I realized that the replacement bolts I ordered were the right diameter, but the wrong length! They're way too short. I checked the part number, and somehow I had the last two digits off versus what is listed in the EPC. Not sure how that happened, but I've now got six of the proper bolts and washers en route.
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  #71  
Old Today, 01:01 AM
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The new bolts and spring washers finally arrived this week, and last night I got the new vacuum pump put back on, with all hardware intact this time. I started the engine without the belt and fan back in place, just to verify nothing was leaking, and the engine made such a racket I swore there was something gravely wrong with it. Looking back, I think it was mostly just because I was starting the engine in my enclosed garage, with the hood up, and the door open - I think I wasn't used to hearing the engine that clearly. And, of course, it was stone cold, not having been started in days, with the pan full of oil, I'm sure.

Anyway, today I finished the job and reinstalled the new parts: tensioner arm and pulley (with dust covers this time), tensioner spring, serpentine belt, OM606 fan and clutch, and fan shroud. Took her for a shakedown afterward - cold start was again a little noisy, but in no time at all the engine was idling smoothly, making good power, and seemed to be operating more quietly overall - I think some of the racket I attributed to the engine was definitely due to the worn tensioner bearings rattling around. And the engine just sounds better somehow under load - I don't know, maybe the new fan is louder or something? I can't really think of what else has changed that might alter the sound of the motor.
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  #72  
Old Today, 05:31 PM
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Having worn belt tensioners and assemblies will cause annoying rattles in the engine bay. Remember it's an IDI diesel, it will be clacky and noisy at start but should overall be smooth.
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