Hi,
I'm having a strange problem with my 1998 E320. Here's the story... I went to start my car after stopping at a store and the starter would continuously crank until I turned the key back off. About half an hour later it started fine. I drove for roughly 20 minutes and the car stopped running while idling at a red light without any shaking or warning of any sort. Again, the car would not start again for 30 or so minutes. Then, I drove it again for about 10 minutes and it died again in the same fashion, while stopped at a red light. If I try to start the car too soon, it will continuously crank but not run. I took the car to a Mercedes mechanic and we drove it around for 30 minutes but it seemed fine. He was able to pull a check engine code. The ECU shows the Fuel Trim Malfuntion Bank 1 and Bank 2 error codes. The mechanic suggested it may be the mass airflow sensor but he wasn't 100% sure. I left the car with him so that he could drive some more. I'm guessing it wouldn't be the fuel pump or injectors since the car would then probably shake and stutter before dying? Does anyone have any idea what the problem may be? Thanks.

EDIT: Would anything with the DAS cause it to stall and die, or would it only relate to the starting problem?

Hi there,

I had exactly the same problem a few months back.
I have changed two parts just be on the safe side.
1. fuel pump as it was making funny noise and may be overheating
2. Knock sensor - this will cut the electrics to the fuel system

Replaced both parts and the car is running fine.

If you think your fuel pump is ok, then try the knock sensor first. I can't remember how much it was but it wasn't too excessively even at dealer's price.

Hope this help.

The most common problem on the 1998 & later V-6 & V-8 (M112/113) engines that will leave you stranded is the crank flywheel sensor. WE replace 5-10 a week at dealer. MB number 003-153-96-28 & list is $100. Optional part
number is 003-153-95-28 also $100

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Sounds like the infamous 99-01 VW "relay #109" (main relay" which would melt and cause the exact same issue.......


Gotta love cheap suppliers

I had a similar problem on a Toyota in the 80's.
It turned out to be a fuel filter that was clogging up.
Might want to replace it as well, pretty cheap to do.

My mechanic ended up replacing the MAS. I drove the car around for about an hour today, stopping for 30-60 seconds multiple times and starting the car multiple times. Everything seems to be okay so far; there are no more error codes and no stalls, nor any difficulty starting. I'll update after a week of driving in case any one is interested. Thanks for the advice guys! I hope the MAS was the problem. =\

The problem is back today. I went to start the car after stopping off somewhere and it would crank but not run again. I waited for 15 minutes or so and it ran fine again. My mechanic found another few codes stored in some sub-menus or something (sorry, I'm obviouly no mechanic). Here are the codes: B1040, B1041, B1042. B1040 is "CAN communication transmission to engine ECU faulty."

It stalled again right when I pulled into my garage, and then it had problems starting it again. I'm starting to believe that the smartkey might be the culprit since the mechanic did pull up an error code relating to the DAS something ME-SFI something (sorry, forgot the code number). It only stalls when the car is stopped, so is the car smart enough to know to shut off when it's not rolling? Thanks in advance.

rogeroger,
Please review the advice of M.B.DOC, crank angle sensor can be verified by the SDS when the car will not start. I would have replaced the CAS first at our shop.

__________________
Paul

UPDATE:
I took the car to a dealer. They ran star diagnostics and pulled up a huge list of error codes, and the tech also said something about reading low voltage. He asked if I tried jump-starting the car at all, to which I replied "no." I then re-explained the symptoms and he said they would try to reproduce the problem. A couple of hours later, he called back and said they were able to reproduce the starting problem (continuous cranking) and he said that "based on what [they] know it's probably the crank sensor." They weren't able to find a code for that on diagnostics and he wasn't very convincing. But given what almost everyone has said here and what I've read elsewhere, I told him to just go ahead and replace the crank sensor. They're going to replace it tomorrow morning and test it out. Could a faulty crank sensor cause the low voltage readings? Also, he quoted me $375 for parts/labor including the diagnostics, is that about right? Thanks again.

I had the same problem last week. Thanks to this post, it is solved.
Paid $100 for the part and $97.50 for the labor.