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#1
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I tried to change my oil today but my oil drain bolt wouldn’t budge. I used my 13mm socket but I stripped the head – darn. Does anyone know a good way to remove it? I’m due for an oil change and I’d really like to get this thing off and a new one in place.
------------------ 1985 190e 2.3 5spd 98 E320 rims + TV & VCR 1991 Mazda Miata 1991 Yamaha FZR1000 1994 MB S420 (sold) 1994 BMW 318ica (sold) |
#2
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Are you using a six point socket or six point wrench. If you're using an open end, or a 12 point, I expect that a six point boxend would get it off unless you've attacked it with vise grips or channel locks already.
BTW. Make sure you have a new plug ready when you get that one out. Good luck, ------------------ Larry Bible '01 C Class, Six Speed '84 Euro 240D, manual, 533K miles '88 300E 5 Speed '81 300D Daughter's Car Over 800,000 miles in Mercedes automobiles |
#3
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Heat it with a torch and use a vise grip.
P E H |
#4
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Yes, a six point socket is the only tool that should be on the drain plug, and always use a new drain plug seal. You don't have to 'overtighten it'.
When I have a rounded out plug at work, I give it a gentle zap with my air chisel. Just feather the throttle and it comes loose every time. Do the same thing with stubborn allen bolts... The real trick is not to get them rounded out in the first place, that is why using the correct tool in the first place is so important.. ------------------ |
#5
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Be really careful if you go the geat route. The sump is aluminum and generally speaking doesn't like to be heated very much. I'll bet there's no copper washer behind that plug. Good luck..
------------------ Jeff Lawrence 1989 300e 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE |
#6
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Thanks for the good information. I’m going to do as Larry suggested and buy a 6-point 13mm socket. The head is stripped but not that bad. I'll order a new bolt and will make sure a washer is installed this time. I’ll keep you posted.
Thanks ------------------ 1985 190e 2.3 5spd 98 E320 rims + TV & VCR 1991 Mazda Miata 1991 Yamaha FZR1000 1994 MB S420 (sold) 1994 BMW 318ica (sold) |
#7
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of course you could always try those Met Wrenches or whatever they are called. That are supposed to be able to get out rounded nuts etc. but not sure if you want to spend that kind of money on tools you already have when a socket costs a few dollars.
Alon ------------------ '92 300CE Metallic Black (Blue Flaked) on Parchment Clear Corners 94-95 Tail-Lights Black Grille Insert 78.5k Miles Future Upgrades: Sportline Suspension 17" AMG Monoblocks or EVO II's Euro Headlights Performance Chip AMG Exhaust Click here to Go To My 300CE Page |
#8
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Hi, CD_NY:
Same thing happened to my C280 few months ago. The previous oil change was done at a dealer as a promotion ($20). However they had the drain plug on too tight. I swore to myself that I would never have anybody else change the oil for me again. The solution? I went to an Econo oil change store and they managed to take the plug off with vise grip. I was charged $10, including a new plug. I thought the new plug was as good as OEM parts so I didn't bother to go to the dealer to get another one. Other oil change chain stores (like Jiffy lube) would do that for you, I guess. By the way, they took out the old plug, and put the new one right in, without loosing much oil (about 1/2 quart). So I drove my car home and enjoyed the oil change. ------------------ Harry (94 C280) |
#9
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Well at least I was right about the Vise Grip
All the MBs I have, have the 2 piece oil pan with the bottom section made out of steel so the drain plug can be heated. I had trouble getting the plug out of the torque converter and heating that plug made it easy to remove. P E H |
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