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Old 07-16-2001, 02:37 PM
Ryan M.
Posts: n/a
I pulled off the engine undertray and changed my oil in my 93 300E 2.8 two days after I bought it. Being without a topsider, I naturally pulled the oil drain plug from the oil pan to drain the old oil out. Washer and drain plug looked fine upon cursory inspection.

When it was time to fill it back up, I replaced the drain plug with washer into the pan after wiping off both plug and washer and seat in pan.

After the new oil was put in, I started to notice a slowwwwww but non-stopping leak coming from the oil drain plug. I hesitantly tightened the plug 1/8 of a turn more, and found it was very snug. But the drip - 1 every 20-25 minutes - continued.

I don't want to tighten the drain plug anymore, for fear of stripping it or the pan. Anybody have any ideas? Should I try a new copper washer on the plug?

Also, hate to bring another problem back up again, but I didn't get any response on this last time I wrote - quickly, I replaced the OVP in my car and it fixed the warm start problem, but the car still idles low - so what should I try next? idle control valve? something else?

Thanks in advance for any input on either subject.
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Old 07-16-2001, 02:47 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: New Bedford, MA USA
Posts: 1,583
Always replace that washer. when it's been reused, the correct amount of torque will sometime not effect a good seal. Designed to be crushed once and once only. There are a number of things that can cause low idle speed. You should get a run on a computer to firm it up.
Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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Old 07-17-2001, 05:47 AM
Ryan M.
Posts: n/a
Jeff - thanks for the reply - this is probably why my Volvos drip from their plugs, too, but I just chalked that up to mileage (should crack 200k in my '89 740GL sedan in the next few weeks - very excited!).

Anybody know if I can simply get another copper washer from just anywhere - hardware store, auto store, etc. - or do I need a special washer that compresses when tightened to make the seal work, and/or fits the seat exactly?

Thanks also for the reply on the low idle - I'll take it to a local Indy shop, and let them plug in their computers. All I'm armed with is a multimeter....
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Old 07-17-2001, 06:08 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,562
the correct washers are available at your local dealer individually for a few cent/ea.

one usually see's the copper in a sealed plastic bag with a new OEM oil filer....

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Old 07-17-2001, 06:32 AM
David C Klasse's Avatar
CheFrac is Back!
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Mission Hills in the City of San Diego
Posts: 2,352
Like fad said, a new filter should come with a new seal and washer. Check the remaining contents if they're still available, otherwise just go to the dealer.
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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