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  #1  
Old 12-16-2004, 08:57 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 6
1980 240d timing question

I lost my timing chain and against advise to fix I have had the head redone and have all new parts now to put it back together. At TDC for #1 do the paint marks on the injection pump gear mean something? I have looked at a couple of books and see the different methods of timing, but where should the pump be located at when you start by putting the chain on? The gear on the end of the IP (I have the cover off) has a green dot on the front face. If you locate the green dot at twelve o'clock there is a yellow paint mark at eleven o'clock and a white small paint mark at eight o'clock. I assume all these paint marks have something to do with the timing. Does any one know where the pump should be located at when I put the chain on with #1 TDC.
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  #2  
Old 12-16-2004, 11:40 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Leave the pump out while installing the chain.

Get valve timing correct (the notch in the thrust washer for the sproket aligned with the little nub on the front cam tower, about 1:30 or so, crank at TDC on #1), then crank engine around to 24 degrees BTDC on #1 compression stroke.

On the drive shaft of the pump, there is a missing spline, and a hash mark on the shaft itself. Line those up with the mark on the flange next to or beside the screw in the upper left side (looking at the drive fitting). install pump and fit screws, but leave loose enough to move it (grease the paper gasket with vasoline).

Make a drip tube if you don't have one (plastic hose the correct size to fit over the IP fitting will work), then remove the #1 injection line. Unscrew the fitting on the IP and CAREFULLY remove the little spring and the plunger underneath it. Don't lose them, and note which way the plunger fit in. Screw fitting back on, hook up the drip tube to the #1 IP fitting and hold it so that the end is pointing down (cut it to an angle) While the engine is still at 24 BTDC, operate the priming pump until fuel runs out of the drip tube. If nothing every comes out, rotate the pump away from the block at the top until it does, then rotate it back toward the block until the flow just dramatically slows. Tighten the three screws holding the pump in place, replace the plunger and spring under the fitting, and the injection line.

Crank it till it starts!

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #3  
Old 12-17-2004, 09:21 AM
LarryBible
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psfred missed his calling to be a tech writer. That is the most concise and correct description of this procedure that I've ever seen.

Merry Christmas,
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  #4  
Old 12-17-2004, 06:48 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Thanks Larry!

Actually, I do write procedures at work a lot. Other than a distressing tendency to leave steps out, they turn out OK.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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