My passengers door window has a partly rusted bottom retainer, the part that holds onto the glass going up and coming down. The glass is seated tight within a rubber insert (normally) the rubber insert seats in a metal channel that attaches to the sizzor riser. When I go to put the window down, the glass slips out of the rubber and metal channel, and hangs up!

I want to drill a hole at each end of the glass (bottom) and with cable ties looping around the metal channel and through the holes, in order to retain the glass while operating the window up/down.

I feel that this will work and save me the trouble and expense bying a new metal channel, etc.

Is there such a thing as a diamond drill bit, or some other means of drilling through glass? BB

I think that's tempered glass so I don't think you can do anything with it. Hopefully there is a glass expert who can say for sure.

Mike

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

leave the glass alone. Perhaps glue and a set screw? and paint all the rest of the metal to avoid further rust.

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David
1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award

No set screw either. Remove the glass from the place of attachment as best you can. Clean thoroughly the glass and where you want to bond it to. Etch the glass chemically to enhance the bond. Glue, clamp lightly and allow full curing time before moving the window at all. The proper adhesive and etchant can be obtained from a knowledgable glass shop. It should work, as that's all the factory ever does normally.

Yes, I think you have the right idea. I'll try this method and hope it'll work out!

Thank you BB

Busybenz,

You need to use glass adhesive--- it's called Urethane, comes in a "caulk gun" style tube... you might try going to a an auto glass shop or even a bodyshop/ heck if you want to come down to Florida , I'd do it at my shop for free...


Regards, Perry

BTW...If you try to drill a hole in tempered glass with a diamond or glass drill bit....it will shatter into a billion pieces. I learned this as a youngen the hard way....

That's very generous, but the 107 is undergoing major interior refurbishing this winter!

I'll look for that urethane adhesive, Thanks!

As for drilling a hole Saint, I had thought this to be a long shot too, but thought I'd ask anyway. Sorry you had to find out the hard way!

BB

Saint is correct, side glass is tempered with a pattern of residual stress. Any disturbance like drilling a hole will cause it to shatter so that no one piece is larger than 10 grams, per DOT standards.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K

The right amount of silicone glue will bond well on very clean glass.

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Everyone is correct about the glue. The one thing I feel I should mention is that all glues lose significant shear strength when they are used to fill gaps. Or rather, the shear strength of the joint drops significantly. Pieces should fit closely, hence the light clamping that should be applied.