Has anyone replaced the window regulator in a 140 body? My plastic regulator in the RR window has cracked and the cables have come loose. Even if I find a new regulator, reassembling the cables looks less than trivial. Any hints. I've checked the previous postings, but found no 140 class notes.
Joel

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Joel P. Davis
1992 500SEL

This is a very high fail part!! Replace complete regulator. It is riveted to door & requires very large rivet gun to reinstall. MB list is only $83.

I had the same problem last month, same window too. I see that you have already taken out the regulator assembly and see that one or both of the cables have slipped out of the blue plastic. The updated replacment regulators you get now have a strong metal housing around where the cables hook in. The rivets from MB are really strong brass ones (about 20 cents each) and they require a great deal of force to pop. I had some aluminum ones the same size, so I used 2 brass ones and 3 aluminum (couldn't squeeze any more) and no problems.

hope that helps
Chris

Interestingly enough, I was able to remove the regulator without removing the rivets or slide. I managed to slide the window tray away from the regulator by tilting it and a little force, then I twisted out the regulator from the slide. I just hope the whole thing goes back in like it came out.
Thoughts?
Joel

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Joel P. Davis
1992 500SEL

On my, now sold, 92 300SE I had both of my rear regulators go sour also. On the previous large car, the 126 model, you could buy just the 'jaw' to fix the assembly but not on the 140. Now you have to purchase the assembly. I put mine in with a 3/16" grade #8 aircraft bolt instead of the rivet so in case it needed another, easy to do! Got smart and sold it before the time came!

Tobias MB
4 MBs

Ah, I see what's going on now. The replacement regulator comes as the whole thing, not just the piece that receives the cables and slides up an down. The other reason you can not replace the slide by itself is that on the updated regulator, the cables are encapsulated in a small metal box.

You will have to remove the whole assembly. Which means:
1) unscrew and pull out the motor and leave it wired to the door, set it aside.
2) use a 4.8mm drill bit to drill out the five rivets, carefull, use only light pressure and high speed and let the bit do the work. If you press hard, the bit will catch the rivet and the rivet will just spin in it hole.
3) you have removed enough of the foam/vinyl barrier so that the assembly can be worked out from the door.

replacement is in the opposite order, and you already know how the window itself must be forced on to the slider.



You know, with as much head ache and perhaps four letter words going into work on the early 140's...it's fun isn't it? I bought the car used, a 93 with 100K. and in 6 months I have replaced the RR window regulator, instrument cluster bulbs, headlight wiper motors, other small things. The closing pump has problems, and the interior rearview mirror is loose. I hope all major updates have been done before....
think of it as slowly making your car newer with new parts.

Thank you all for your help. The description of how to do this was exact. Took about 1 hour total.
Thanks.
Joel

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Joel P. Davis
1992 500SEL

Now that the regulator is in, and I dont really want to do it again one day, I was thinking that lubricating the trim on the side of the windows should help. This is the railing on both edges of the glass where the glass slides up and down on. I have not found the lubricant though, somehow when I took the lubricant part number (from the service microfiches) to the dealer, they could not locate it. An Easier sliding window will be a lot softer on the regulator cables and motor.

Chris