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  #1  
Old 01-18-2005, 10:47 PM
Harpman
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DYI -Window regulator sliding jaws 420sel

What is the trick to mounting the nylon bushings to the regulator arm...looks like they are "pressed" in via the pin? Briefly watched my past mechanic do the front pass. door but didn't see how he mounted the bushings?
Any DYIer's out there that could guide me through the door removal/replacement game?
TIA
Harp
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  #2  
Old 01-19-2005, 12:38 AM
Larry Delor's Avatar
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yeah... it's a little bit of a pain in the rear...

You pretty much stick the pin through the plastic and then while carefully setting something with anvil-like qualities under it (don't break the plastic!!) gently hit the pin until you have it mushroomed. (circa 100 hits) Then you can replace the little plastic cover.

I thought there was a post on how to do it here...might want to search again.

-Larry
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  #3  
Old 01-19-2005, 12:42 AM
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Right, needs to be peened- I usually drop by my local MB shop and they do it for me in less than one minute.
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  #4  
Old 01-19-2005, 03:03 AM
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I used a clevis pin and shortened it. The hole on the window arm needs to be drilled out.

W126 rear window won't go up

Simple and effective, plus you don't have to remove the window mechanism.
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  #5  
Old 01-19-2005, 04:30 AM
Harpman
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Excellent info!

Gonna try the Clevis pin trick! Concerned that I don't hear the motor running when I push the rocker switch????? Know more woth the door panel off!
Now, any past posts on the door removal sequence?
Peace & a million thanks!
Harp
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  #6  
Old 01-19-2005, 09:26 AM
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Easiest way...

There is an easier way than mushrooming that rivet.

Replace the rivet with a bolt, nut and a few washers. Make sure the bolt isn't so long that it hits the mechanism when moving the window up/down.

The layers should go as follows (this is from memory, so it's approximate)

Side of jaw with no hole - bolt head - side of jaw with hole - washer - window linkage - washer - nut - 2nd nut jammed against first.

I took the original rivet with me to Home Depot and bought the necessary hardware to match. Remember that the bolt should be a bit longer since it needs 2 nuts on the end of it. The head size of the new bolt is somewhat important, as too thick a head won't fit inside the sliding jaw. I think the one I used had a rounded philips head (looked like the pan head of a sheet metal screw)

If you do end up using a bolt, please post a picture. I have done this using a bolt 3 times, and people keep asking me for a picture but I never took one!

Thanks
Neal
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2005, 07:07 PM
Harpman
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Did it!

Done did it successfully!...but, man, what a hassle on the door panel install!
Bhat....and the others that posted....thanks a million! Saved me mucho bucks!

FYI- I used a 1"L by 5/16" dia carriage bolt (Lowes), took my Dremel and a cutwheel and shaved the shoulders off the bolt (under the panhead), popped the cap off the sliding jaw, inserted the bolt, put the cap back in place (nice fit!), used the Dremel & cutwheel combo to grind the old bolt off the lifting arm, slipped the jaw in the window groove unit(?) with new grease, attached the jaw to the lifting arm...used blue Locktite & one nut instead of the jam nut theory!

FYI- I used a piece of copper wire to grab the door lock threaded stem!
I worked the door panel from the bottom up...making sure that all the clips were in their proper place before I looped the copper wire down the door lock hole and grabbed the threaded stem...pulling it toward me (up & out the hole) as I snapped the panel in place!

FYI -I used a glue stick (looks like a tube of lipstick!) to attach the plastic moisture barrier to the door frame!


Once again, a sincere thanks to all that posted!

Peace,
Harp
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  #8  
Old 06-12-2014, 01:50 PM
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I took the new part and clamped the 1/4" metal end at the upper corner/edge of the bench vise, with some of the round above the jaw of the vice.

I filed a small flat spot on the 1/4" round and drilled a 1/16th" hole across the diameter, slightly less then 1/16th" from the end.

The 1/16th x 1/2" cotter pin used as the retainer cost seven cents.

The last two times I did this repair I peened the rivet. The cotter pin is the easiest by far.



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Last edited by Gregory; 06-12-2014 at 03:55 PM.
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  #9  
Old 05-09-2017, 03:05 PM
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I did this repair again today. The new part was not the same, the rivet did not project through far enough to drill a 1/16th hole and use a cotter pin to capture it.

I opened the plastic slide, removed the rivet and replaced it with a 1/4 inch carriage bolt, cut to length. I drilled the 1/16th hole as before for the pin. I also drilled out the hole for the rivet in the window arm, as it was metric and slightly smaller.

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1st MBz: 1982 300SD
2nd MBz: 1987 300SDL
3rd MBz: 1995 S420
4th MBz: 1987 190DT
5th MBz: 1984 300SD w/1983 300DT engine
6th MBz: 1999 C230k I'm 3rd owner, got it w/57,235 miles.
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  #10  
Old 05-10-2017, 08:44 AM
Mike Murrell's Avatar
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See post #4 above - clevis pin. I used this method on my LR door about 10 yrs. ago. Still holding.

On another forum a couple of people have reported success using binding post. The bushing on my RR regulator has recently given up the ghost, so I'll be doing another one of these repairs soon.
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  #11  
Old 05-10-2017, 09:45 AM
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Those sliding plastic pieces seriously suck. The solid ones from a certain "source" are no better in the durability department. I made my own solid solution out of UHMW plastic, which should probably outlast the car. It isn't pretty, but it's functional.

The "Diseasel" - '86 300SDL
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