Can you remove fan clutch bracket with fan clutch still attached?

1990 300E 103 engine.

The bearing is noisy and rough. Sven the body builder evidently installed the bolt that holds the fan clutch on, so is it possible to get all the bolts out of the bracket with the clutch still on? I got the blades off but cannot get the clutch bolt out.

Also, is there a gasket or anything behind that bracket?

Thanks

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

If you look at the top of the fan bearing on the water pump side, you will notice two raised lines in the casting. This is where the special took for locking the fan clutch goes and is inserted into the rear side of the fan clutch. Only then can you take the thing off. You can use a thick rod, I don't know the thickness but you can try different sized bolts, for instance. Then use an 8 mm hex allen wrench to remove the front bolt.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35625&item=4522437574&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2488506178&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr4_PcN__Stores

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Thanks for going to the trouble to find the links, Warren.

I have the tool already. The problem is, the bolt is SO TIGHT, I can't get it loose and the inside of the bolt is starting to round out.

Since I have to replace the bearing anyway, I wonder if I can remove the fan bracket with the clutch still attached and then deal with getting the clutch off.

Thanks

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

What are you using to take the bolt out? I usually use a 8mm allen wrench, and extend the lever arm with a 10 or 12mm deep socket on an 18" breaker bar.

I'm not sure if it's possible to access all of the bolts (there are four) with the fan clutch in place, but it's worth a shot if you can get to them. You may also need to loosen a couple of the alternator mount bolts to wiggle the bracket free. There is no gasket or sealant behind the bracket, but you will need sealant to put at least one of the bolts back in (the one attached to the belt tensioner bracket).

I have found that if I remove the guide pulley, and the distributor cap, and the fan from the clutch, I had much better success using a good strap wrench on the pulley to hold it in place. The holding center bolt in the fan clutch may have loctite on it, so it needs to be 'broken' free. When I tried to do that with an improvised holding tool, it sheared off one of the two raised lines on the back of the fan clutch.

I never removed the bearing bracket, so I can't answer your question definitively.

Good luck

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On the plains of hesitation bleach the bones of countless millions who at the dawn of victory, sat down to wait, and waiting -- died