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#1
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D.I.Y one man brake bleeder.
You can quite easily make your own "one man bleeder". All you need is a clear plastic bottle such as a coke bottle (the bigger the better), a length of 6mm vacuum hose and a 6mm drill bit. Start by drilling two 6mm holes into the bottle cap and feed an end of the hose through one hole, 1/4 fill the bottle with water, refit the cap with the hose just touching the bottom of the bottle, the other hole lets air escape as you bleed the brakes, and allows you to fit the other end of the hose when not in use.
Now all you do is sit the bottle on the ground, fit the hose to the bleed nipple and crack open the bleeder about 1/8 of a turn, pump the brake pedal about 8 times, (keeping an eye on the fluid level). You dont need to pump all the way to the floor about halfway is sufficient, as you pump the fluid through, the water in the bottle prevents air from being drawn back into the system. Tighten the bleeder, refit the nipple cap and you're ready to bleed the next caliper. ![]() |
#2
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Air could get in around the bleeder screw threads.
The gravity method should work as well but it takes longer. Just open the bleeder and let the fluid flow. Keep an eye on the resivoir. The rear one on my 87td is very hard to see, its only the last 1/2" or so of the tank and it doesn't fill until the front section is very close to the top.
__________________
82 Rabbit diesel (first d), 84 Jetta turbo d (300k when sold), 83 240d (305k when sold), 84 F250 6.9d w/Banks turbo(parts truck), 86 F250 6 cyl.gasser(waiting for 6.9d), 84 300d ( 347k Sold 8/04), Y2k New Bettle TDI (185k miles), 95 740IL (wifes), 87 300TD (206k Sold 7/05), 05 Passat TDI Wagon |
#3
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As long as you don't crack the bleeder any further than 1/4 of a turn, air wont be a problem. Most techs I know have tried power bleeders (hate them) and have come back to this much faster and simpler method.
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#4
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I've seen the power bleeders boil fluid in the fluid reservoir and that happened with the bleeders open and fluid flow unrestricted.
Gravity is ok for flushing, but you need pressure to bleed. There's a difference between bleeding and flushing. I like Ozzy's coke bottle method, assuming that water doesn't get pulled back the other way. |
#5
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Here's what I did:
This is a little insane, but it works. I took the brake fluid resevoir cap, drilled a small hole in it, cut the stem out of a shredded mountain bike tube, inserted the stem into the cap and sealed it up.
Now I just crack open the bleader bolt, with plastic tubing attaced, going to a catch bottle, then with my tire chuck on my air compressor, carefully pressurize the brake fluid resevoir. (I limit the psi.) The pressure in the resevoir pushes the brake fluid out the open bleeder. Seems crazy, but it works. I only use it for flushing the lines though. The final bleeding I do with help inside the car pumping the brakes.
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On the plains of hesitation bleach the bones of countless millions who at the dawn of victory, sat down to wait, and waiting -- died |
#6
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Quote:
Quote:
I have personally used this method for over 15 years now, with no problems at all, I have seen numerous power bleeders come and go, but I just stick to my trusty old coke bottle. ![]() |
#7
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I use the bottle method, but I have a vac pump on the exit hose
That way I do not have to touch the pedal and if the bleeder does suck any air, it goes to the bottle , not back in the caliper...and , of course , clear line.. not just for air monitoring, but for fluid color change of the new fluid.. There is no fluid in the bottle , as it is not needed with this type system.... The bottle is an air/drop trap that does not let the fluid get to the vac pump. Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 01-31-2005 at 08:58 PM. |
#8
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Quote:
__________________
Ray 1998 Mercedes E320, 200K Miles 2001 Acura 3.2TL, 178K Miles 1992 Chevy Astro, 205K Miles |
#9
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