I have a 87 300E and the antilock light is steady, it appears that the charging system is working properly which is one cause, I have not yet looked at the wheel sensors, can anyone give me the troubleshooting steps to find the problem. thanks in advance

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Jerry

2004 SL500 Black 55K Miles
2002 s500 Black 90K Miles
1986 300E Gold 233K Miles
1966 Twin Cessna 320D
1989 Jeep Cherokee 233K Miles
1994 Ford Van E150 399K Miles

First quick check would be the fuse on top of the OVP relay.

I had the same problem and realized that I had new tires on the front and old ones on the back. The size difference made the light come on. As soon as I replaced the tires, the problem went away. I had the same thing happen when I had a spare on for a few miles.

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I have a 1986 300e with the antilock brake light that comes on at about 25 to 30 mph. It then stays on until the car is turned off. The OVP relay and fuse looks ok and the voltage while the car is running is at 13.3 volts. I know the ABS is not functioning since I can now skid and lockup the wheels for the 1st time in 20 years. After looking at many other posts my best guess is that it is either one of the two front wheel sensors or the rear differential sensor. Without having a computer to plug in to the car and tell me which one is bad, how can I diagnosis the problem? One post said to use a ohm meter but gave no details on how or where to plug in the leads. Is there a better way to diagnosis the problem? Please be specific. Any pictures would also be appreciated. (And yes this is my 1st post)

Thank you

On the left and right side of engine bay are the plug connectors. Just look for two big cables with big connectors that look exactly the same right next to the suspension top hats on either side.
The female side of the connector goes to the ABS sensor I believe.

Thank you for your reply.

On the ohm meter am I looking for an open or closed circuit or a specific resistance to show which sensor is bad. How would I check the rear sensor in the differential?