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  #1  
Old 02-07-2005, 04:44 PM
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New Mobil Synthetic Oil

Just went into Wal Mart to get some Mobil 1 and saw a few new oils from Mobil. http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Home/Homepage.aspx

One in particular stated that the oil was guaranteed to be good for 15,000 miles. Only $24 per 5 quart.

Anyone know about this new oil?

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  #2  
Old 02-07-2005, 05:12 PM
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Whatever the oil manufacturers claim, their recommendations will never override the engine manufacturer's recommendations.
For having been in the oil business for several decades, I would much more prefer for my Benz to bath in a cheap no-name .99c/q recycled oil (as long as it meets the SAE specs) than in a 12,000 or 15,000mi. old expensive synthetic oil.
Mobil 1 or a cheap recycled oil will collect the same amount of contaminants for the same mileage.
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  #3  
Old 02-07-2005, 08:12 PM
cpiad2005
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More on synthetics

I tried going to the web site you appended ... but I just could not wait for the graphic to fill the screen with my slowwwwww dial up connection. So, I cannot comment specifically on the "new" Mobil One oils. If the new oils are blends, I'd say stick with synthetics for the minor marginal cost. If the new oils are full base synthetics, they are probably ok -- but I think pushing beyond 7-10k miles starts building up contaminated oil under normal filtration.

I'd like to add my "two cents" worth on synthetics overall ...

For the most part … I think there is some marketing hype about crude base stock oils (dino juice) versus synthetic oils. For most of us who are not going to race our cars … or drive them at extreme temperatures under heavy duty conditions … or push the replacement cycles beyond 10k miles … its ok to use relatively cheap oils with low replacement cycles, i.e., 3k miles. However, there are reasons to use synthetics that became convincing to me about 10 years ago … I’ve been using Mobil 1, AMSOIL and Syntec over the last 10 years in different applications. Mobil 1 has been going into the three MB’s that I’ve owned – ’96 E320 (still have it), ’98 ML320 (sold) and a ’96 E36 AMG engine that I shoe-horned into a 1985 190E 16V (sold). While I don’t push oil replacement cycles beyond 7-8k, I just cannot force myself to dump oil at 3k intervals – it’s a pain and its just more waste and stress on the environment. Here are some of the reasons I go synthetic ….

Dino juice oils tend to break down at the higher operating temperatures of many modern engines, e.g., the new MB V-6.. The breakdown products can leave engine components coated with varnish deposits and sludge. Also, the oil that has been affected by breakdown increases in viscosity and is difficult to pump through the engine. Mercedes had to extend the warranty of older ML320’s because they meant the FSS to work with synthetics not dino juice – now they make it clear they want you to use synthetic oils to increase the replacement intervals.

Synthetics do not contain wax which make the dino oils more difficult to push during start up … particularly when its cold. Also, the long chain polymers used in synthetics remain relatively stable over long scope oils like a 0W40, 15W50, 10W40 or even a 5W50. Dino oils simply cannot provide long scope coverage like a “designer” molecule. A 10W40 dino oil is flacky and is not a good 10W nor a good 40W oil.

Synthetics work under lower friction and thereby produce less inherent heat while at the same time providing better heat transfer. Oils lubricate and cool at the same time, and synthetics seem to do a better marginal job of both. Part of the science behind the lower friction is the size conformity of synthetic polymer molecules.
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  #4  
Old 02-07-2005, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpiad2005
I tried going to the web site you appended ... but I just could not wait for the graphic to fill the screen with my slowwwwww dial up connection. So, I cannot comment specifically on the "new" Mobil One oils. If the new oils are blends, I'd say stick with synthetics for the minor marginal cost. If the new oils are full base synthetics, they are probably ok -- but I think pushing beyond 7-10k miles starts building up contaminated oil under normal filtration.

Try this link

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Extended_Performance.aspx

My intent was not to start another oil comparison thread as I know it has been beaten to death. Just was wondering if people had any experience or know the pros and cons of this new product.

I have used Mobil 1 for awhile now and am satisfied with its performance.
I try to change at 5000 - 6000 intervals but this new oil is suggesting 15,000 intervals which I think is way too long.
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  #5  
Old 02-07-2005, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpiad2005
I tried going to the web site you appended ... but I just could not wait for the graphic to fill the screen with my slowwwwww dial up connection. So, I cannot comment specifically on the "new" Mobil One oils. If the new oils are blends, I'd say stick with synthetics for the minor marginal cost. If the new oils are full base synthetics, they are probably ok -- but I think pushing beyond 7-10k miles starts building up contaminated oil under normal filtration.

I'd like to add my "two cents" worth on synthetics overall ...

For the most part … I think there is some marketing hype about crude base stock oils (dino juice) versus synthetic oils. For most of us who are not going to race our cars … or drive them at extreme temperatures under heavy duty conditions … or push the replacement cycles beyond 10k miles … its ok to use relatively cheap oils with low replacement cycles, i.e., 3k miles. However, there are reasons to use synthetics that became convincing to me about 10 years ago … I’ve been using Mobil 1, AMSOIL and Syntec over the last 10 years in different applications. Mobil 1 has been going into the three MB’s that I’ve owned – ’96 E320 (still have it), ’98 ML320 (sold) and a ’96 E36 AMG engine that I shoe-horned into a 1985 190E 16V (sold). While I don’t push oil replacement cycles beyond 7-8k, I just cannot force myself to dump oil at 3k intervals – it’s a pain and its just more waste and stress on the environment. Here are some of the reasons I go synthetic ….

Dino juice oils tend to break down at the higher operating temperatures of many modern engines, e.g., the new MB V-6.. The breakdown products can leave engine components coated with varnish deposits and sludge. Also, the oil that has been affected by breakdown increases in viscosity and is difficult to pump through the engine. Mercedes had to extend the warranty of older ML320’s because they meant the FSS to work with synthetics not dino juice – now they make it clear they want you to use synthetic oils to increase the replacement intervals.

Synthetics do not contain wax which make the dino oils more difficult to push during start up … particularly when its cold. Also, the long chain polymers used in synthetics remain relatively stable over long scope oils like a 0W40, 15W50, 10W40 or even a 5W50. Dino oils simply cannot provide long scope coverage like a “designer” molecule. A 10W40 dino oil is flacky and is not a good 10W nor a good 40W oil.

Synthetics work under lower friction and thereby produce less inherent heat while at the same time providing better heat transfer. Oils lubricate and cool at the same time, and synthetics seem to do a better marginal job of both. Part of the science behind the lower friction is the size conformity of synthetic polymer molecules.
Most of what you state sounds like the marketing hype from synthetic oil marketers.

All organic compounds breakdown at high temperatures, specifically the accumulation of exposure to high temperature. That's why synthetics support longer change intervals, but to say that mineral oils "break down at the higher operating temperatures of modern engines" is a gross oversimplification of a very complex phenomenon. ALL motor oils will "break down" - oxidize when exposed to a temperature-time enviroment, and synthetics will last longer, which is why they are suitable for extented oil change intervals, but the additive package in an API SL synthetic is no richer than an API SL mineral oil, so if you use a synthetic with an extended change interval, the additive concentration in the oil, which is critical to engine longevity, will be, on average, less than a mineral oil and a shorter change interval. Within reason, the difference in friction factor and heat transfer coefficient between a synthetic and mineral oil of the same viscosity range is nil.

The only other advantage of synthetics is they do tend to flow better at low temps, even in the same viscosity range (and it's usually broader than mineral based oils), so if you live in a sub-zero climate, they may be an advantage in winter starting and cold start lubrication.

I use any name brand API SL mineral based oil - whatever is on sale, and I change it once a year, which has been running 500-2000 miles per six months use. (I store my 190 six months a year (spring to fall) and the oil gets changed before storage.) Back when I drove my 190 everyday I changed it every 5000 miles. The OE recommendation is six months or 7500, whichever occurs first.

As long as we change our oil on a reasonable interval - suitable to our driving conditions, most of us will never wear out the bottom ends. It's all the other stuff that eventually will force us to sell, donate, or junk our cars.

I agree with jackd, but I would not use a "recycled" or "re-refined" oil, even if it met current API SL standards, but you can usually find new API SL oil in name or house brands for about a buck a quart. In fact, I've never even run across a recycled or re-refined oil that met modern API specs. I do remember selling non-detergent recycled oil to customers with beaters when I worked in a gas station in the early sixties. "Two bucks worth of regular and a quart of two-bit oil" was a common customer sale on the late shift.

If you have a car that is designed for synthethic oil that has an monitoring system to tell you when to change the oil, follow the oil spec and oil change recommendation. If you have an earlier car that was designed for mineral oil, keep using it in a proper viscosity for expected temperature conditions and follow the manufacturers mileage AND time change recommendations.

Switching to synthetic, whether you keep the normal change interval or extend it is not going to add life to the engine, but it usually costs more, especially if you don't accumulate mileage rapidly and don't use an extended drain interval.

Duke

Last edited by Duke2.6; 02-07-2005 at 10:47 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-07-2005, 10:58 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: visalia ca
Posts: 368
Quote:
Originally Posted by California Beach
Just went into Wal Mart to get some Mobil 1 and saw a few new oils from Mobil. http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Home/Homepage.aspx

One in particular stated that the oil was guaranteed to be good for 15,000 miles. Only $24 per 5 quart.

Anyone know about this new oil?
mobil 1 went to this formula cuz the manufacturers have changed
their requiremets. mb has changed to a 13,000/ 1 year requirement.
i'm a true fan of mobil 1 now. just seen to much posative stuff
from it. a 7,500/six month interval is about right. for those that truly
do your own maintenance then a one year interval is fine. i give my
customers the best i can cuz thats what they expect. city driving is considered hard use so if you use dino then you would have to change
it more than has been done. i have had two customers that cooked their
140's till their was no oil pressure. but they had the mobil 1 i installed.
a few oil changes and they are still on the road with no ill effects.
do that on dino. its just the cheapest damn thing you can do to the most
important thing in your car you can do.

george
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  #7  
Old 02-08-2005, 02:44 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 482
We JUST got this stuff in this morning at the auto parts facility I work at. I guess it's brand new, because we didn't get any a few days ago. Haven't had a chance to take a look at it, I'll see tomorrrow.

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