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  #1  
Old 01-10-2004, 11:06 PM
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Mobil1 15w50 in Cold Weather

I know - another oil thread....

But I just want some opinions about a specific product, not opinions about other products... yea I can dream, can't I?


Time to change oil in the '84 300D and the forecast is for highs in the teens and lows in the single digits. I use the block heater when its below 25.

I would like to simplify my life and get to one oil for both MBs and my initial choice for year round use is Mobil1 15w50.

I know the pour point is -45C or -49F, but it is rated 15w50.

Should I be concerned?

Thanks for not ranting...
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  #2  
Old 01-11-2004, 12:04 AM
ForcedInduction
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It's started me fine down to 21*f when I use the block heater. I feel it's better than Rotella, for sure.

If you can budget Mobil Delvac 1 for winter, do for it. I'm sure it would be even better.
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  #3  
Old 01-11-2004, 09:26 AM
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The Mobil 1 15w50 seems to get up to pressure pretty quick except for a couple unheated single digit starts. I could feel the drag that time, I try to use the heater for almost an hour if it is in the teens out or a little longer if colder.
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  #4  
Old 01-11-2004, 12:06 PM
123c
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I just use Delo 400 in the Benz, and just buy the Mobil 1 for the Subaru. I don't like using synthetics in the Benz because it leaks them out very fast, and I just don't want to waste my money like that...
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  #5  
Old 01-11-2004, 12:26 PM
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I sort of agree with you 123c, I buy cheap Mobil1 supersyn 15w50 for my Mercedes and the best Amsoil (with $13 mobil oil filter) for my talon. While I don't leak very much I'm hoping that the leak I do have which is ever so slow will stop itself eventually, Mobil is known to do this. If not, I will stop it. I can't stand a dripping car....
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2004, 02:47 PM
oilburninokie
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Quote:
But I just want some opinions about a specific product, not opinions about other products... yea I can dream, can't I?
Won't help you with opinions but I will help with some facts.

Mobil 1 15W-50 has the same cold pumping viscosity of Rotella T 15W-40 (7000 centipoise at -20C), which is not very good. Pour points have very little real world value(statement from Mobil). The cold cranking simulator is directly related to your engines function of pumping the oil and is a much better guage for cold weather characteristics. Below is a list of a few CCS specs for your inspection. Delvac 1300 has the best CCS spec of all the conventional diesel engine lubes. And Mobil 1 0W-40 has the best for the syn. group.

Mobil 1 0W-40-----------6200cp@-35C
Rotella Syn. 5W-40------6400cp@-30C
Delvac 1 5W-40---------6600cp@-30C
Delvac 1300 15W-40----6000cp@-20C
Delo 400 15W-40--------6400cp@-20C
Pennz L.L. 15W-40------6400cp@-20C
Valv P.B 15W-40--------6600cp@-20C

The lower the cp# the less resistance to pumping. Notice the different testing temperatures.

Mobil 15W-50 is not a very good cold weather oil. You can get better. It is also not the best for your diesel, carrying the old API CF rating. Mobil 1 0W-40 also carries the old CF rating.
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  #7  
Old 01-11-2004, 03:38 PM
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In my 84 300td at around 20 degrees I use the block heater and I use a mix of Rotella 15-40 and Mobil 1 0-40w,(50-50) car uses a quart about every 800 miles using this mix. using straight mobil 1 I use a qt about every 500 miles. leaks.

Other diesels I use Mil Spec 2104C surplus If I can get it. One of the highest TBN's available. It either comes 10w or 10w-30. It's a bluish color. Interesting stuff.
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  #8  
Old 01-11-2004, 10:25 PM
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I like facts

Oilburninokie,

Thanks, I will remember this. I havent seen this information in other oil posts, so now I feel better about starting this one.

Given the price, it sounds like Delvac 1300 is best for year round duty. I will try it next time.
My oil doesn't have to be synthetic since I try to change it every 3-4k miles and I do mostly highway driving.....


Thanks again!!
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1989 260E - 195kmi+ Black/Grey (My Panther)
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  #9  
Old 01-20-2004, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by oilburninokie
Mobil 1 15W-50 has the same cold pumping viscosity of Rotella T 15W-40 (7000 centipoise at -20C), which is not very good. Pour points have very little real world value(statement from Mobil). The cold cranking simulator is directly related to your engines function of pumping the oil and is a much better guage for cold weather characteristics.



Mobil 15W-50 is not a very good cold weather oil. You can get better. It is also not the best for your diesel, carrying the old API CF rating. Mobil 1 0W-40 also carries the old CF rating.
Oilburninokie:

I agree with you for the most part, I just have one question... Where did you get your data? I cannot find the current mobil1 cold cranking specs on the mobil1 website's product data sheet.

Can you point me to the source, I have some investigating to do for into the 15w-50 vs 0w-40 for use in my bmw, and want those and a bunch of other specs.

Their current PDS is here, and doesnt show the ccs info, or much of anything...
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_15W-50.asp
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  #10  
Old 01-20-2004, 06:53 PM
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Actually, I just talked to the M1 engineers, the actual cranking specs for M1 are:

15w-50: -20 = 5234cp
0w-40: -35 = 4300cp

JMH
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Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
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Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
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1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
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  #11  
Old 01-20-2004, 06:58 PM
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Oh please. You've got to be kidding. Look, go prove it to yourselves, and screw the "facts". Stick a quart of Mobil-1 15W-50 in your freezer along with a quart of whatever else you're considering, like the 0W-40 or 5W-40. And of course at least one dino oil like Rotella 15W-40. Better yet, if it's well below zero F where you live, just stick them outside overnight (most freezers don't get much below zero F). Try pouring each of them when they're fully cold-soaked down below zero F. Then tell me how 15W-xx dino oil is almost the same as 15W-xx synthetic and that engine pumping is a big factor.

Based on the provided CCS data, Rotella Syn "outperforms" Delvac-1. And it's fairly common knowledge that D-1 is not even in the same class as the cheap-o Group III Rotella "synthetic". This hoepfully should point out that there are numerous factors to selecting an oil and you shouldn't make a decision based on one specification alone.

On a side note, this being a MERCEDES forum, Mercedes-Benz could care less what the API ratings are for oils. They have their own approved lube sheets and only allow API specs as a deciding factor probably for legal reasons, and that the Euro specs aren't used over here in the 'States. Saying M-1 is not as good as others only based on their "inferior" API rating is, IMO, inflammatory. Amsoil has no API ratings at all, so that must be real junk, huh?

(flame suit ON)
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2004, 07:04 PM
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Thus my point... The numbers were incorrect, and thats what I was pointing out. Purely from a fluid-dynamical standpoint.

However, based upon the HT/HS data, and the fact that it is ACEA B3/B4-02, youll see that M1 15w-50 is amongt the best oils out there... Becasue these specs are the basis of the MB 229.x series (and Id bet the 228.x) oil specs.

0w-40 has a lower HT/HS value, but apparently a higher or more sophisitcated additive package (plus the fact that the lower visc. yields a higher MPG, which is required for the 229.5 spec).

JMH
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1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
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Last edited by JHZR2; 01-20-2004 at 07:11 PM.
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  #13  
Old 01-20-2004, 08:30 PM
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OK, mine's a gasser so things aren't quite the same BUT...

I just recently changed to Mobil 1 0W40 and the 560 spins up fast on cold starts in zero and sub-zero temps. In fact when I changed my oil, the oil had been sitting in the trunk for several days, always parked out side with the highest temps falling in the +single digits, yet when I poured the oil into the engine it flowed faster than 10W30 semi-synthetic does in 70*f temps.
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  #14  
Old 01-20-2004, 08:40 PM
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Yep, I think the 0w-40 is probably one of the best oils out there...
I just have to wonder how the burn rates change compared to a 15wt oil in engines with high tolerances that need the 15wt. Have you noticed increased engine use? Id imagine a lot depends on how many cold starts you do...

JMH
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Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #15  
Old 01-20-2004, 08:45 PM
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I haven't noticed any use yet, but then again I've only logged about 300 miles since the change. I will be on the road this weekend and should rack up a good 400 miles. We'll see how much I lose via my suspected vacationing valve stem seals.
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