The other day I tried using my Hayne's manual to adjust the throttle cable which goes to the transmission. (bowden cable??) This was a bad idea as the manual was not descriptive and I didn't really know what I was doing, but still turned the little screw about 2 turns, and hadn't noticed any difference in the part sticking out from the end. But today I noticed the transmission shifts are delayed significantly. Under about 1/4 throttle the trans doesnt upshift from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th until about 4,000 RPM which is far higher RPM's then normal. What exactly does the cable that I adjusted do and what result do I get by tightening it and loosening it?

I have done many searches concerning the Bowden cable and vacuum modulator but can only seem to find posts saying do searches to find more info

If anyone knows of a good source for adjusting these that would be great, and preferably not the one's for the diesels

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1992 190E 2.3
150,000 Miles

I too have trouble with the search and I do know there are plenty of threads on this issue.

Two things you only need to know: #1. Bowden cable is for the purpous of adjusting shift points. In other words, 1st changes gear into 2nd, at or around 2000 rpm, the same is true for 3ed, and 4th approximately.

#2 Modulator valve is for the purpous of adjusting the way the tranny shift from gear to gear, be it hard, or soft, also known as banging abruptly into each gear, or flaring into each gear. Flaring is when the engine continues to race before fully engaging into any given gear. Too soft (flaring) will generate a lot of heat between the discs (like clutches) and wears them out sooner than later. Too hard will transmit too much shock to driveshaft flex joints and other drivetrain components.

Adjust the bowden cable to shift at 2000 rpm. Adjust the modulator valve to be somewhere between hard and soft, being on the harder, or brisk, side is OK than being on the softer, or flaring side.

The modulator valve is on the drivers side of the tranny and has a vacuum hose connecting also a little rubber cap covering the key that pulls out and turns either direction. Turn only one slot at a time until the desired shifting is accomplished.

If you have any more questions, just ring.............BB

This might help (see attached)

It is best to have the cable slightly loose, a little slack. Multiple trial and errors seems to get it right.

Haasman

Attached Thumbnails

 

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Thanks for the info

That picture should help
Are you sure the modulator is on the driver side? I thought I saw something on the passenger side with a vacuum cable going to it. And do you happen to know which direction to turn the key to soften the shifts?

You bring up a good point about not wanting too little shift pressure as parts wear down quicker, so is it not "recommended" to tweak the shift pressure? Or does it need to be adjusted over time to keep it at the optimal point?

I would rather deal with harder shifts if it meant I can get a lot more mileage out of my tranny....

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1992 190E 2.3
150,000 Miles

I turned the crimp nipple back the other way, and the first few turns the shifts went down to about 3500, turned it a little more and its around 2000, maybe a little lower... but in the 20 second test drive the shifts seemed much improved as far as harshness...
Is it possible that lowering the shift points makes the shifts less harsh?

I will have to find out for sure tomorrow when I drive it for real how the shifts feel and will post.

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1992 190E 2.3
150,000 Miles

Question??? Hope someone can help me out. Try to adjust the bowden cable. I found the white adjusting nut, but it seems can not turn it (very tight). The black narrow can turn, but the white nut can not turn. Want to make sure that the white nut can turn or not??? thanks