happened to my son's front drivers shock when he went over some railroad tracks and an ensuing pot hole hard early one morning..

shock was fine.... it was the inside mount that crack and broke..... the shock did hit the hood, putting a very small dent in it..

we replaced both upper shock mounts.... the car still needs to be aligned, but it is fine....the incident scared the pants off me (i was afraid of big bucks)

hope it scared the crap out of him too..... about railroad tracks, anyway

__________________
1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

Another good reason to double-check front upper shock mounts. If they appear slightly cracked or even fine from above, doesn't mean they are not cracked below.

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

A most fortuitous thread as I have just changed both front and rear shocks on my 1991 300CE. I am getting the same dainty clinking sound when I go over bumps, just from the right side and to the rear. I just checked the washer and nut and snugged it up but still I get clinking. I may have to re-install the one as suggested above. Maybe it is not seated well.

When working on these shocks, remember that you must counter hold the piston (the fronts with a 7-8mm allen and the rears with a small crescent wrench) as you are tightening the lock nut. You cannot let the piston turn! As the manual and installation papers say "Working piston may come loose. Accident risk!"

With these failures, it may be faulty shocks or it may well be faulty installation.

BTW, these DIY repairs are the most physically demanding of any I've tried. I did them without a spring compressor and I can see where that would make it much easier. I had to compress and hogtie the struts to get them in, and then wrestle to get the upper knotted rope out after releasing the strut. If there is a easier way, let me know for curiosity sake because I won't be needing shocks for 100m.

Also my car ran fairly well with the old shocks. I changed the rears because one showed fresh oil and they were original to the car. I found from the Bilstein site that this is normal and not an indication of failure. In comparing the old struts to new, the new were harder to compress and the two old ones had different return rates. The fronts were original also and looked fine but one took over 30 seconds to return and the other about 5 seconds. The new ones were markedly harder to compress. The new ride is nice! Less brake dip, less acceleration squat, flatter turns and on curves, soaks up all the small bumps. Dealer wanted $1000, independent wanted $750, my cost was just parts :$450.

glenmore
1991 300CE
1990 LS400
2000 C280